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Crank Bolt - The Easy Way

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Old 12-10-2006, 12:09 AM
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UKKid35
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Lightbulb Crank Bolt - The Easy Way

I keep saying it's easy but I've only just taken pictures of the process. I know my engine bay isn't about to win a concours event, so be nice...



Old 12-10-2006, 12:11 AM
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Shark Attack
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i used a 260ft# air hammer to take it off and put it on....we'll see if it holds
Old 12-10-2006, 01:07 AM
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borland
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That's the nicest looking Polonium-210 I've seen in a long time.

Torque wrench as a breaker bar?

Over here, we have HFT (tool store), where a 36" 3/4" breaker bar is about $20 USD. With a pipe extension, it's easy to take off.
Old 12-10-2006, 01:41 AM
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Imo000
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Originally Posted by borland
That's the nicest looking Polonium-210 I've seen in a long time.

Torque wrench as a breaker bar?

Over here, we have HFT (tool store), where a 36" 3/4" breaker bar is about $20 USD. With a pipe extension, it's easy to take off.
I agree, you can easily destroy or make the wrench inaccurate. However your procedure is a good one!
Old 12-10-2006, 07:08 AM
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UKKid35
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Originally Posted by borland
That's the nicest looking Polonium-210 I've seen in a long time.

Torque wrench as a breaker bar?

Over here, we have HFT (tool store), where a 36" 3/4" breaker bar is about $20 USD. With a pipe extension, it's easy to take off.

I ensure I visit harbor Freight on every trip to the US, but there is a limit on how many tools and 928Int parts I can cram in my suitcase.

It's only easy with a pipe extension if you have a flywheel lock, otherwise there is too much transmission wind up. The Flywheel lock costs eqiv of $120 here in the UK from Porsche.

On previous advice from Wally, the torque wrench (also a $20 HFT item) is not my primary torque wrench. I don't have a ratchet of that size, otherwise I'd use it instead (cheap torque wrenches are much more plentyful than large ratchets).
Old 12-10-2006, 07:29 AM
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Garth S
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Hey Paul, you've turned this into a bonafied procedure : in your write up, remember to caution first timers to place the wrench on the correct side .... I still have visions of a breaker bar launched halfway through a hood when the starter is bumped .
Old 12-10-2006, 07:49 AM
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This did not work for me during my 1989 928S4 TB/WP change about a year ago. The car raised up a bit and that was it. Not for the faint of heart. Flywheel lock tool and a breaker bar on a 3/4" breaker and socket. And it still took a bit of muscle to get it off.

Cheers,
Constantine
Old 12-10-2006, 09:28 AM
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UKKid35
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Originally Posted by Constantine
This did not work for me during my 1989 928S4 TB/WP change about a year ago. The car raised up a bit and that was it. Not for the faint of heart. Flywheel lock tool and a breaker bar on a 3/4" breaker and socket. And it still took a bit of muscle to get it off.

Cheers,
Constantine
Did the starter stall? I would suspect a low/weak battery in that instance. I agree that it is possible for the car to lift, but the weight of the car should generate more than the cracking torque required.
Old 12-10-2006, 11:21 AM
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AO
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Originally Posted by UKKid35
It's only easy with a pipe extension if you have a flywheel lock, otherwise there is too much transmission wind up. The Flywheel lock costs eqiv of $120 here in the UK from Porsche.
I don't use a flywheel lock. Just put the car in 5th gear and set the parking brake - more than enough braking force to counter the force needed to loosen the bolt using a breaker bar and a 4' extension of pipe.
Old 12-10-2006, 11:31 AM
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UKKid35
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
I don't use a flywheel lock. Just put the car in 5th gear and set the parking brake - more than enough braking force to counter the force needed to loosen the bolt using a breaker bar and a 4' extension of pipe.
In my experience you end up with nearly 90deg of transmission wind up, but then my car has nearly 200k miles.
Old 12-10-2006, 11:43 AM
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JP Rodkey
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This is not a criticism of any kind (UKKid35), but that's the kind of thing I used to do in my earlier car repair forays. And over time, I learned that my particular Karma could be predicted: Because the jack stand had a pebble under one leg, or because the towel slipped, or because the torque wrench wasn't precisely placed properly, a twist of the key would cause the wrench to careen off the bolt and hit the radiator and bounce off the concrete floor to jam up between the A/C clutch and refrigerant hose causing a small leak and put a serious kink in the clutch. 928 Intl has a wing named after me.
Old 12-10-2006, 12:52 PM
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928 Intl has a wing named after me
Old 12-10-2006, 02:34 PM
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Well, I tried that WITH the flywheel lock on the engine. I also tried standing on a breaker bar. I tried standing on a shorter wrench and jumping as I held onto something in the ceiling. I tried usuing an electric air wrench that is supposed to put 400lbft on it. I tried jacking the handle.

I broke the breaker bar end. I almost lost an ankle doing the jumping thing.

I took the engine and tt and trans out the bottom of the damn car in the garage, and slowley disassembled it, all the while still not getting the crank bolt off.

I have now already diassembled the entire engine, and had to actually take the crank out of the block WITH the pulleys, crank timing gear, and plastic TB cover ON the crank.

I am hoping a machine shop that does the balancing or magnafluxing of the crank can take the bolt off.

Brendan 0, Crank Bolt 1.
Old 12-10-2006, 03:10 PM
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JP Rodkey
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Wow, Brendon - quite a story. No doubt a shop will get it apart.
Old 12-10-2006, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Imo000
I agree, you can easily destroy or make the wrench inaccurate. However your procedure is a good one!
it's a $10 torque wrench. it's inaccurate out of the box. a breaker bar is all it's good for...


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