Engine detail including intake and cam cover refinishing
12-08-2008, 07:30 PM
#31
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Chuck,
Great Job!
I did this same process 5 Years ago on Kevin Berez's GTS (there is a 928 somewhere under all that masking paper below :-).
It has held up great and still looks good today.
Great Job!
I did this same process 5 Years ago on Kevin Berez's GTS (there is a 928 somewhere under all that masking paper below :-).
It has held up great and still looks good today.
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Last edited by DR; 12-08-2008 at 09:24 PM.
12-08-2008, 08:56 PM
#33
Race Car
Has anybody else around hear tried the painting route and still happy with the results a couple years later?
I’d be happy if my end result looks as good as what Chuck had at the start.
I’ve been reviewing a ton of threads on this subject and all few seem to be leaning towards powder coating. I like the idea of using the crinkle finish on the cam covers to help mask the imperfection. I not to thrilled about using in on the intake though… just doesn’t look right to me.
I’d be happy if my end result looks as good as what Chuck had at the start.
I’ve been reviewing a ton of threads on this subject and all few seem to be leaning towards powder coating. I like the idea of using the crinkle finish on the cam covers to help mask the imperfection. I not to thrilled about using in on the intake though… just doesn’t look right to me.
I have about a year and 5000 miles on mine. Media blasted and Painted with High temp paint and clearcoated. Still looks good. Mine was done with the intake and cam covers removed though.
Last edited by blitz928; 06-28-2013 at 02:18 PM.
12-08-2008, 11:32 PM
#34
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Has anybody else around hear tried the painting route and still happy with the results a couple years later?
I’d be happy if my end result looks as good as what Chuck had at the start.
I’ve been reviewing a ton of threads on this subject and all few seem to be leaning towards powder coating. I like the idea of using the crinkle finish on the cam covers to help mask the imperfection. I not to thrilled about using in on the intake though… just doesn’t look right to me.
I’d be happy if my end result looks as good as what Chuck had at the start.
I’ve been reviewing a ton of threads on this subject and all few seem to be leaning towards powder coating. I like the idea of using the crinkle finish on the cam covers to help mask the imperfection. I not to thrilled about using in on the intake though… just doesn’t look right to me.
12-09-2008, 11:38 AM
#35
Drifting
Thanks Chuck,
That pretty much answers it for me. The intake had already been repainted and doesn’t look good. The cam covers are still original and are totally flaking.
I’m hoping with proper preparation (left to the professionals) the powder coating will do the trick.
I’ll start soaking the cam cover bolts with PB Blaster and pray they all come out without incident after ‘knocking’ them up!
That pretty much answers it for me. The intake had already been repainted and doesn’t look good. The cam covers are still original and are totally flaking.
I’m hoping with proper preparation (left to the professionals) the powder coating will do the trick.
I’ll start soaking the cam cover bolts with PB Blaster and pray they all come out without incident after ‘knocking’ them up!
12-09-2008, 12:19 PM
#36
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I'm not sure that PB Blaster or Kroil will do much good on the cam cover bolts. The threads are 'protected' by that rubber seals and the rubber-faced washers. Keeping the oil in with those also keeps the Kroil out.
I plan to do this exact project sometime this winter. Plan is to get the engine to operation temp, and then loosen the cam cover bolts slightly while it's still hot. Mechanic's gloves to protect the paws from the heat, of course. With the bolts cracked loose, I'll let it cool before finishing the removal of course. Let the engine heat expand the aluminum around the steel bolts for you. I'm speculating that I can avoild serious bolt mangling using this procedure. Hope springs eternal!
I plan to do this exact project sometime this winter. Plan is to get the engine to operation temp, and then loosen the cam cover bolts slightly while it's still hot. Mechanic's gloves to protect the paws from the heat, of course. With the bolts cracked loose, I'll let it cool before finishing the removal of course. Let the engine heat expand the aluminum around the steel bolts for you. I'm speculating that I can avoild serious bolt mangling using this procedure. Hope springs eternal!
12-09-2008, 12:46 PM
#37
Drifting
Thanks for the tips! I was wondering if Kroil or Blaster would penetrate the seals if given enough time.
I like the warm engine idea and just picked up some mechanix glove in the craftsman club sale on Sunday.
I read somewhere that tapping them lightly with a hammer can help wake up the threads... I presume that's not an urban legend.
I like the warm engine idea and just picked up some mechanix glove in the craftsman club sale on Sunday.
I read somewhere that tapping them lightly with a hammer can help wake up the threads... I presume that's not an urban legend.
12-09-2008, 04:18 PM
#39
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When I did my intake (off for the major service underneath) and cam covers (in situ), I discovered that scraping removed all of the top coats, leaving the factory gray primer undamaged. Cleaning and washing that gave me a very paintable surface that looked good after spraying with standard wheel silver. No heat damage, no peeling, still looks good.
12-09-2008, 04:42 PM
#40
Range Master
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Chuck, you are an ANIMAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well done!
Well done!
03-07-2009, 06:57 PM
#41
Drifting
Chuck...I gave this a try yesterday on the intake only. Have not done the valve covers yet ..It took just at the most an hour or so. I used an old bed sheet to cover the motor. Far from perfect but a lot better than it was. For $6.00 you can't beat it. Will do it again when the intake refresh is needed or I have time to just do it. Right now the car is running great.
03-07-2009, 07:23 PM
#42
Three Wheelin'
Dean that looks great.
I did the same using (http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT)
but the problem is if you touch it with hand even after its dry it leaves a stain, which is not removable. The brake caliper paint from duplicolor is better since after the paint is dried and you touch it wont get stained.
but from all these brands I would try VHT, from my experience painting exhaust system on my aircooled VW it sticks better than duplicolor (the VHT has last more than a year but the duplicolor only lasted a month).
the problem with VHT is that after you apply it, you need to bake the paint in 3 steps. if you dont do that, when you try to torqu a bolt (on valve cover for example) it lifts the paint.
but if you bake it, its gona be hard as rock. since Im gona do a engine swap I will do mine with VHT this time.
http://www.cacustomcoatings.com/brcapaca.html
I did the same using (http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT)
but the problem is if you touch it with hand even after its dry it leaves a stain, which is not removable. The brake caliper paint from duplicolor is better since after the paint is dried and you touch it wont get stained.
but from all these brands I would try VHT, from my experience painting exhaust system on my aircooled VW it sticks better than duplicolor (the VHT has last more than a year but the duplicolor only lasted a month).
the problem with VHT is that after you apply it, you need to bake the paint in 3 steps. if you dont do that, when you try to torqu a bolt (on valve cover for example) it lifts the paint.
but if you bake it, its gona be hard as rock. since Im gona do a engine swap I will do mine with VHT this time.
http://www.cacustomcoatings.com/brcapaca.html
10-18-2013, 09:50 PM
#43
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Some of these old posts are great. Used the techniques outlined above and got great results for a few hours and $7. Although not perfect, still a great improvement for little money. Plan to do the cam covers next.
