John Speake

The 87 and later have the more usual 59 teeth and one gap for the reference mark.

Lizard928

the two sensors on the back, the front one is a TDC sensor for testing equipment, the rear one is a hall sensor which is run off a 100-1 ring, and the 2 teeth one on either side of the missing tooth are just slightly wider than the rest, though I doubt it is enough to make a difference

the only issue you will run into with mounting the 60-2 wheel on the 928 is that the pulley on the front of the car doesnt have a locating pin so it can move around if the bolt comes loose.
however you can take the flywheel off with the timing ring on it and the timing ring just pops off and you can then install a custom ring with x # of teeth on it

Raceboy

Hi Lizard, nice to see you here!
You don't happen to have a picture of that missing tooth arrangement, don't you?

If it's this way you described (1 missing and a gap between the others, it might work.
I'll give it a try with the ECU in a day or two.

Raceboy

Ok, trigger issue could probably be closed as I ripped the old stock, oily, stiff and ugly wiring out together with two (could you imagine?) brain-boxes and hooked up a VEMS ECU to the stock VR sensor. After some playing with the settings (mostly tooth wheel related), I got rock steady and clean (without trigger errors) rpm signal into the ECU. So, the main obstacle is defeated
I''m going to fabricate new engine wiring harness in weekend (new wires, new connectors etc) and hoping to start the car next week.

hacker-pschorr

........so the brain boxes have been removed?

Raceboy

Yes they are.
But, I had to cut the wiring where it protrudes the firewall (couldn't remove it either side otherwise). But anyway you should take this wiring only as and exact example for the new one..... If that's ok, we can discuss shipping details.

hacker-pschorr

Excellent!! Yes the original (cut up) harness will be good for double checking the wires etc... I'll probably make my own.

Thank You!!!

Raceboy

Hi guys!
The wiring on S is done now and I hooked up everything.
Got the spark also from the COPs ok, but could someone tell me the angle of the missing tooth from the TDC? On Porsches it's usually 58.5 degrees but if someone could give me exact info, it would be very useful.

TIA, Raceboy

Raceboy

I can choose whether it's rising or falling edge in the menu, but VR trigger in most cases want s rising edge.
But, thanks for the info, I'll connect the fuel pump tomorrow and attempting to start the car!

Raceboy

Yep, checking the TDC after the trigger setting with a strobe is essential!

Lizard928

one on the left, I cannot tell you the orientation however if you look at the top of the flywheel you will see the two TDC pins, and can get a very rough idea of orientation via that,

Raceboy

Thanx Lizard, that should be app. 60 degrees.
I'll put 62 as Sterling suggested and after work I'll try to start the car. If it's couple of degrees off,itõ's no problem, car starts anyway, and I just have to pinpoint the exact degree with a strobe while cranking (setting cranking advance to 0 and disabling fuel pump).

Raceboy

Sooo, I started the car today after connecting the fuel pump and it started right away...but died after 1 second I added priming pulse and req.fuel constant and after that it purred like a kitten when idling. It was kind of missing when pushed the throttle, but I haven't tuned it yet 8started with a base map from a VE calculator).
I'm taking some pics tomorrow.

Raceboy

I used active type VW COP, part number is 036 905 715 A. It needs logic level input (+5v).

Raceboy

The unit has to be secured to the stock ECU location and some clean-up stuff also.


LCD that shows WBo2, EGT, CLT, IAT, rpm, TPS % and lots of other things, inlcuding setting ignition dwell, change VE tables etc. Sry for such a blurry pic.


Engine, that needs heavy cleaning. But, it has new wiring and COPs. Some old wires have to be cut out.