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Easier way for front strut removal on 85

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Old 12-15-2010, 06:37 PM
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StratfordShark
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Originally Posted by dr bob
Top three nuts in the engine bay, bottom bolt and nut through the LCA bracket. Put a stand or jack under the LCA so it doesn't get away from you as you loosen the top nuts. Same jack makes it easier to get the top studs in place again on installation. Makes it a one-person job.
That sounds amazingly easy Dr Bob - can't wait to try this approach.

Given none of the eccentric adjusters are touched, do you need any alignment once new shocks installed?
Old 12-16-2010, 10:37 AM
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Tom in Austin
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Doin' mine the week after Christmas, can't wait to see if it's really this easy!
Old 12-16-2010, 10:57 AM
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Cosmo Kramer
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I actually got mine in and out without unbolting the LCA instead I adjusted the ride height collar up near the top. This gives just enough clearance to swing the shocks out once the inner fender is removed. It was tight though.
Old 12-16-2010, 01:45 PM
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dr bob
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Originally Posted by StratfordShark
That sounds amazingly easy Dr Bob - can't wait to try this approach.

Given none of the eccentric adjusters are touched, do you need any alignment once new shocks installed?
It is amazingly easy with the fender liner removed. Having that out allows enough extra room to rotate the top of the spring/shock asssembly to the rear, then out of the UCA. Once the bolt is pulled from the bottom of the shock assy at the LCA bracket, you can depress the spindle if you need a touch of extra room. I didn't seem to need that though.

When I installed the new springs and shocks earlier this year, I was anticipating a wrestling match to get the things out. Mostly based on info shared here on Rennlist. Warnings about worn/stuck/rusty rear shock lower pins. The WSM instruction that says to unbolt a control arm.

My car is a never-in-snow, seldom sees rain, low humidity in our little patch of coastal desert car, so rust is not an issue. The rear pins came out with finger pressure only. They look almost like new, with just a little scuffing on the yellow cad plating. They got cleaned, then a thin coating of waterproof marine grease, and slid right back in when the new shocks went in. The fronts almost fell out when they were unbolted, as described above.


The 928 came to me in virtually as-new condition mechanically, with no corrosion on hardware at all. It lives in a relatively climate-stable garage. It's heaven for a car, especially compared to what they see in other wetter parts of the country. I'm in the middle of a couple projects that have me in Maryland and western Pennsylvania a lot, and it's a reminder to me that salt, snow, wet, cold, etc., are the norm in most places. Somehow, my rental-car user profile includes a preferrence for black cars, so my last extended visit to Pittsburgh included a nice black sedan. For about the first two minutes anyway. Rain turning to snow on the way from the airport, and the sides of the car had a light gray-brown film on them. By the end of the first week, the car was thick with road crud and salt from road de-icing. Some of that washed off in the rain and snow though. I remember now why I had a winter beater when I lived in that climate. The little red 356SC cab would sit in the garage all winter, while the ten-year-old $75 36hp '58 beetle did the dirty work.


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The alignment will not change IF you keep the ride height exactly the same. That doesn't mean it won't need checking and maybe adjusting, just means it won't be different.



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