Brake booster R&R tips and a Q?
#1
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Brake booster R&R tips and a Q?
A few tips on removing the brake booster:
1-Forget the hose clamp and metal plate recommended in the WSM.
2-Take off two nuts holding the booster to the firewall on opposite corners.
3-Push the pedal to the floor, block it there, and clamp the rod with the vise grips.
4-Use vise grips to hold the booster rod and make the vise grips VERY tight.
5-Release the pedal, pull the clip and pull the pin.
6-Loosen the adjuster block that connects the rod to the pedal then take it and the locknut off.
7-Reinstall the block on just a few threads at the end of the rod, slide the pin back into the pedal and rest the block against the pin.
8-Repeat 3-5.
9-Remove the block and remaining two nuts holding the booster to the firewall.
Otherwise the manual's instructions are good.
Now for a question...
There was a destroyed thick paper gasket between the booster and firewall. I don't have a replacement gasket. (477 611 951 according to PET) Should I need the gasket?
1-Forget the hose clamp and metal plate recommended in the WSM.
2-Take off two nuts holding the booster to the firewall on opposite corners.
3-Push the pedal to the floor, block it there, and clamp the rod with the vise grips.
4-Use vise grips to hold the booster rod and make the vise grips VERY tight.
5-Release the pedal, pull the clip and pull the pin.
6-Loosen the adjuster block that connects the rod to the pedal then take it and the locknut off.
7-Reinstall the block on just a few threads at the end of the rod, slide the pin back into the pedal and rest the block against the pin.
8-Repeat 3-5.
9-Remove the block and remaining two nuts holding the booster to the firewall.
Otherwise the manual's instructions are good.
Now for a question...
There was a destroyed thick paper gasket between the booster and firewall. I don't have a replacement gasket. (477 611 951 according to PET) Should I need the gasket?
#2
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Anybody...
Is it just to keep enginecompartment gases from getting to the passenger compartment, or does it also act as a spacer?
Originally Posted by FlyingDog
Now for a question...
There was a destroyed thick paper gasket between the booster and firewall. I don't have a replacement gasket. (477 611 951 according to PET) Should I need the gasket?
There was a destroyed thick paper gasket between the booster and firewall. I don't have a replacement gasket. (477 611 951 according to PET) Should I need the gasket?
#3
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Matt, I wanted to take the time to look at the WSM before replying. On the page after they mention the hose clamp they talk about installation and call that piece a "Seal Ring" in step 1 of installation(P. 47-16). It seems pretty clear that they thought it should be replaced any time you're in there. That step describes how to determine which replacement you need; replacements range from 1-4mm thick.
BTW, what's with the fuse panels in your avatar? You upgrading to ATO fuses?
BTW, what's with the fuse panels in your avatar? You upgrading to ATO fuses?
Last edited by SharkSkin; 04-29-2006 at 02:14 AM.
#4
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I guess I should've read the installation instructions before asking the question. I just assumed it woud be something like "installation is the reverse of removal". I bought some gasket material that I will cut to size. It is 1/16", so it'll be about 1.6mm. I don't see how 1mm or 2mm will make a difference since the actuator rod is adjustable.
That's a good 85-86 next to my cooked 84. Dozman is kindly sending me a damaged 85-86 panel to take parts from. I'm going to try to cut the fuse section of my panel out and install the blade fuse blocks from the damaged panel. I also had a nice offer for the wiring harnesses and fuse panel from an 85 Euro, but I think I'd go insane trying that conversion.
That's a good 85-86 next to my cooked 84. Dozman is kindly sending me a damaged 85-86 panel to take parts from. I'm going to try to cut the fuse section of my panel out and install the blade fuse blocks from the damaged panel. I also had a nice offer for the wiring harnesses and fuse panel from an 85 Euro, but I think I'd go insane trying that conversion.
#5
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Yeah, you should be OK... Only thing I can figure is the 9" booster has a longer rod and needs the thicker seal to avoid bottoming the adjustment.
Fuse panel sounds like a fun project. I'm very interested to see how you will tie in the busbars... please take lots of pics!
Fuse panel sounds like a fun project. I'm very interested to see how you will tie in the busbars... please take lots of pics!
#7
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What, because you drew it up in CAD instead of just transferring the outline from the old one? That's more "geek" than "dork". "Dork" is not turning to the next page in the WSM...
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I know. BTW, I tried reassmbling the pieces of the old gasket to trace. It's ugly. I think that makes me slightly less dorky/geeky since I tried a normal method first, even though Solidworks was the first idea that popped into my head.