FeedNfrenZ

Is it possible to remove the heads without taking the cams out first? assuming NOT...... what kind of tool is needed to remove the cam bolts? torques? can I do it safley without the removal tool by loosening up each bolt evenly and slowly so not to allow the cams to bend? Would it make life easier down the road to mark them? How?
I know.............. allot of questions but you know what they say....... "there are NO stupid questions"...................... well OKAY maybe there are!

Imo000

The cams have to come out. You can't get to the bolts if they stay in place.

I've removed my cams just by loosening the cap bolt in small increments.

What do you mean by marking? If you are talking about marking the cams to reference their location for later assembly I would say yes, do it.

I hope this helps!

FeedNfrenZ

What is the name of the type of tool/wrench/socket used to undo the cam bolts? looks kinda like a torques. Where can I get it??

Imo000

If I remember right, they are regular metric allan keys. Make sure you use a metric and not an imperial set.

Big Dave

Here's my write-up of how to install cams. It ought to give you the info you need to remove them.

LINK

UKKid35

The bearing cap bolts on mine were the double hex type, the bolt heads were fairly shallow too. When you undo them make sure the tool is seated properly. Undo them each in small increments and no special tool is needed to clamp the cams. Same is true for tightening. If you are working with the engine in the car, then the bearing clamp nearest the suspension strut will be difficult, although not impossible - Don't attempt it without exactly the right tool.

MarkRobinson

No, heads can come off w/o removing cams, done it before.

Must remove cam chain tensioners on both heads (no biggie). You'll need a 19mm universal-jointed shallow socket. Craftsman makes one, but not strong enough. Snap-on has a great one, forgot the price. Or, use about 4 $9 Craftsman.

Mark

Tony

The cams have to come out(then again, as seen above, they may not)..and they DO NOT BEND, actually they can snap. You can rig up a simple device to walk them off with some scrap aluminum.
Take a piece of wire and wire the cam chain tight in the middle, that way the relation ship between intake and exhaust wont change when you take them off and install them.

Tony

BTW Dave..although im sure it was a PITA to do...those wbe pages are

FeedNfrenZ

Thanks guys for all the help! I have one question still. What do I use to undo the cam journals? It's very close to a torques but it has 16 points instead of 6?

Mrmerlin

Hi your going to need a 12 point cheesehead driver I think it is a size 6mm or 8mm to remove the cam caps, take note of where the caps are oriented as on side of each cam cap is shorter than the other also they all are marked on the head and the cap, the cap will have usually have a two digit number this is the head number such as 34- 1 this will go throught 34 -2 , 34- 3, and so on . Hope this helps, Stan

MarkRobinson

If you remove the heads w/o removing the cams, you don't need to worry about that or obtaining the $100 loctite only available at Porsche to reseal the front & rear bridges. ALSO, you don't have to re-time the cams with a dial caliper & a rigged probe. Regardless of having the cams correctly chained to eachother, you still need to adjust the cam sprockets per tappet lift as per the manuals.

Dave Sz.

http://autodax.com/catalog/pdetail.php?prdid=44

This is the type of socket you're looking for.

Dave Sz.
1988 S4
1980 Euro S

FeedNfrenZ

Thanks, Dave.........triple-square or multi-spine . I'll have to buy a set............ unless I can convince "Pizza" that he needs a set!