I ran into this same problem, Andrew. My guide tube and release arm were wrong.
As for the pilot bearing removal all I did was get grease all over with the dowell trick. Believe me the bolt trick is so easy... All you need is a nut that just fits through the bearing. Now you need a bolt or bolt stock that is 3 or 4" long. Find out how far in th bolt goes in then put the not on the bolt so it will be about even with the inside of the pilot bearing. Put the bolt, with nut through the pilot bearing, you may want to wedge the side of the nut to one side of the pilot bearing. Now turn bolt clockwise and the bearing will pop out as soon as the bolt starts to bottom out.
I am sure my directions are easy to follow :confused:

Did this supercedes bearing issue also affect when someone does the Twin disk clutch retro-thing? I have two flywheels that I will use in succession (when the first wears out quickly) and I have the twin-disk clutch kits.

Along these lines, would I use the S4-style release arm, or the earlier versions? I got a bit criss-crossed here.

I am reinstalling the original clutch plates and bearings and flywheel, as I think there may be a learning curve with the SC power.

Andrew, I'll bring the lapping compound an a pilot bearing puller thursday night.

---------------------------------
Dennis
82 weissach #142

Andrew, you need a puller for the Clutch Pilot bearing: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4876 It will turn it into a 3-minute job.

Jim Mayzurk
93 GTS 5-spd

The release arm lever is not too expensive - especially in light of your bill for the GTS PP - if you got a GTS PP and not a run-of-the-mill S4 PP.

What part of the clutch? Disc only?

The original S4/GT t/o bearing has been unavailable since years prior to 1999. So, if the t/o bearing was replaced then either they used all the correct GTS parts or your clutch would have exploded by now (see second referenced thread.) OR they managed to find a NOS S4/GT t/o bearing. But, there is another possible explanation. This gets more interesting....

... which is... wait for it.... originally for 1984 - 1986 MY 928.

928 116 832 08 is the correct P/N for a '87 through '91.

But 07 is superseded by the 08 and 09. And 08 by 09.

BUT the t/o bearing for an 86 is 928 116 085 24 and has NOT been superseded!?! Hmmm... the '86 bearing is not like the '87-'91 bearing and is still available one would assume.

Thus, is it possible that the 86 r/a lever is OK to use with the GTS t/o bearing and guide sleeve? Call Jim or D.R. And let us know!!

WWJBS?

Answer: I need to go up to the 928 116 832 09 arm. :(

On the bright side... I'll be able to order more stuff! :evilgrin:

All these nifty ideas for the pilot bearing puller.............thought I'd offer mine.

I used a long bolt (8mm X 30ish?), corresponding nut, and a washer (the washer just a bit larger than the internal hole diameter). Use pliars and bend the washer to make a 'U'. Put washer onto bolt and thread nut onto bolt. Turn washer parallel with bolt and slip through bearing hole, then pull out on bolt allowing the washer to pivot and catch on the inside shoulder of the bearing. Use a claw hammer to pry on the bolt, pulling the bearing with it.

It was essentially free, took about 45 seconds to fab and 30 seconds to pull the bearing. What can I say? It worked well for me in a pinch.

See Andrew, I told you that you should upgrade to a twindisk. ;)

Brendan, for the dual disk you use the dual disk pressure plate, arm, and throwout bearing both of which are not superceded with GTS parts. Buy Andrew's arm so he can get one that is correct for his single disk.

Ah. I have three and they seem to all be the same measurements. I'm doing all dual disk for the cars because of the flywheel availability and the way the clutch feels compared to the single.

I don't know $hi+ about pre-S4 cars.

But, the measurement difference between the GTS spec t/o bearing and sleeve and the S4-spec bearing and sleeve is only 1mm IIRC. Probably almost not enough to be able to measure (without calipers) but enough to implode the clutch if you mix and match.

That is certainly the safe, no muss no fuss answer.

So what other parts you gonna order? :D

Andrew,
Yes it was simple tool to get bearing out. You just need to to get big enough nut so the wings will not bend when you crank bearing out. Just get few sizes and see which works. Check this quick reference for parts you need with new release bearing: http://members.cox.net/my_1987s4_928...20upgrade.html
We had no problems putting pilot in. Master cylinder: 20 min of try and error work for two, and $35 Power Bleeder (from big three) will properly evacuate air in minutes. Just get ATE gold or blue brake fluid to be sure you have pushed everything out.

:D

I rounded off someof the edges on the nut soit would fit through the pilot bearing. You want to make sure and leave a couple of good edges on the nut so it can brab onto the inside of the bearing.

Voytek has a good pick of the differences in the release arms. I could find no ther changes than the one he points out. If you ground the nubs off you would have the newer version arm.

http://members.cox.net/my_1987s4_92...%20upgrade.html


Worf,

Absolutely, the TO bearing is way too tight on the old sleeve.

OK, I rechecked the pics from my earlier thread on this project, and I can clearly see the nubs on the arm. Sure, I could grnd them down and see what happens. Maybe it'll work fine, or maybe it'll grenade tthe TO bearing. For $115 I can have the correct arm and no issues - money well spent in my book especially when I paid over $1k to upgrade to the GTS style clutch. That's only a 10% bump.

Thanks for the support guys. As soon as I get the new lever (hopefully tomorrow) I'm sure I'll be asking more questions.

:cheers: