StevenB

I took my car over to Bill's today to try and fix the window roller on the driver side. I got a new roller and bolt (pin?) but when we got the door apart we could not see how to remove the old piece and even more puzzling is how to install the new one. The old bolt on the window arm seems to be flanged onto the window arm. I imagine if we removed the window mechanism we could hack saw the old piece off, but the question remains how dose one attach the new one . If anyone out there has done this and has a suggestion or know the "trick" to this fix, advice would be appreciated.
Thanks

Steve B

WallyP

Try:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...=window+roller

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...=window+roller

http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/te...ndow_frame.htm

There are several things that you should do WYAIT (While You Are In There), such as cleaning and lubing the motor/gearbox unit, replacing the nylon guides or applying nylon tie-wraps to shim them out for a snug fit, etc.

Bill Ball

Eh, I was hoping to avoid removing the mechanism. Steve's door is seriously Dynamatted. We cut flaps through the mat to look everything over through the access holes, but we will be digging off a lot of tar to find all the bolts that hold the motor and arm. We could drill the current rivet out in situ, but then we are stuck. No one has come up with a threaded shoulder bolt/nut option. Thanks for the info, Wally.

atb

When I replaced mine I took it to a machine shop to do the work. I think it was about $20 for labor, and it looked factory when they were done.

Bill Ball

Thanks, Adam. First we have to get it out of this door that has essentially been dipped in tar.

StevenB

Yikes....This is looks like it is going to turn into a big sticky mess . I might have to bring home a gallon of solvent to deal with this. Anyone know what dissolves the dynamat tar the best.

Steve B

Bill Ball

Mineral spirits/paint thinner.

Just call me Mr. Shortcut. I'll bet we can get a small bolt, sleeve it to match the shoulder portion that holds the wheel and put a lock nut on the end. I should have measured it while you were here. PM me the dimensions if you have a micrometer.

AO

FWIW, At SITM '05 my roller decided to quit and let eh window shoot down to the bottom of the door. Wow! That sucked! When I got home, I ended up drilling out the rivet, then using a big metal washer with machine screw and nut to attach to the lifting arm. Squirted some grease into the channel, and it worked great until the nut backed off. That's when I decided that locktite was in order. Can't talk about long term reliability as I sold the car this past August, but I think I had less than $1 into the solution. YMMV.

Bill Ball

Andrew, thanks for the encouragement!

neilh

FWIW:

Grind the old one out with a dremel tool, insert new pin, peen the end over, and your done - (assuming you can get the mechanism out, of course)
I tried the bolt and sleeve, but with a nut on the back could not get the required clearance behind the arm, and it fouled the glass.
Parts:
Window lift roller 928-537-918-00 $1.78
Steel Rivet 928-537-917-00 $3.95
( about a year ago direct from local Porsche dealer)

Good luck,
Neil

Bill Ball

Neil:

Yeah, it will require a flat/round-head bolt of the right head size to allow the wheel to slip into the runner. The nut should be away from the glass. Not sure how it would contact the glass.

Getting the window mechanism out from this completely tarred door is not so simple.

StevenB

Neil,

Have the parts, but thanks for the p/n's.

BTW, I used to live in Rancho Bernardo and grew up in Rancho Penasquitos. Coming your way in two weeks to visit family.

Steve B

Bill Ball

Ok, here is my attempt to avoid removing the arm, thanks to OSH Hardware. The rivet has a shoulder, just shy of 8MM (5/16") wide and 6MM (approx 1/4") across the neck. So, idea #1 to the right of the rivet, uses a 6MM bolt with the head shaved and cut slightly longer than the rivet to accomodate a Nyloc nut. A 5/16" bronze bearing (Servalite 638A) was cut to match the height of the shoulder . Should work. Alternative #2 is a 1/4"-20 5/16" T-nut (Servalite 50-N) with a 1/4" machine screw cut to length and with the head ground down a little in case there are any clearance issues on that end. Should work with a little Loctite. We will find out tomorrow. I know, it looks funky. If I saw this after I removed the door panel, I would go, "tsk, tsk."

AO

I thought the same thing when I did mine, but it's a helluva lot cheaper to do it this way. BTW, mine wasn't nearly as elegant. Nice job.

Bill Ball

Anybody who can call this "elegant" is my kinda mechanic. Favorite tool - hacksaw!