neilh

81 - 928 AT 140k
Have just replaced :
Gas tank - it leaked
Fuel Check valve and filter - I was in there anyway !
Heater control valve - stuck open - vacuum failure - BTW, they can fail so you have a vacuum leak at the valve itself... mine did.. pressure gauge showed no vacuum!
Thermostat - for the heck of it, as i needed to partially drain donw system to replace valve, anyway
All vacuum lines - seemed like a good idea

Still takes 2 - 3 hits before it starts cold.
Will immediately start when warm within a minute or so.
After 10 - 15 minutes, takes some cranking, coughs spluuters , fires runs rough for a few seconds, then takes of like a dog in heat....

I'm thinking leaking injector(s)? Affects both cold and hot start... anyone care to agree, differ! They were all replaced 5k miles agao, but that was also 10 years!!!!!

Now, if only my rice rockets would crap out, my wife would stop bitching about foreign cars and maintenance costs :-) Land Rover parts are way more expensive 928 parts anytime....................

Randy V

Sounds like bad fuel injectors. The hard-start when hot typically indicates injectors that leak after shutdown, resulting in a flooded condition. After sitting for awhile, the excess fuel has a chance to evaporate, thus the easier starts when cold.

Imo000

I agree with Randy, Leaking injectors will flood the cylinders. You said the check vavle was replaced. Is it possible that it's leaking and the fuel line drains back to the tank? These are the only two things I can think of. You should hook up a pressure gage and wach it after shut down. If the pressure is dropping you'll know it's not the injectors but probably the new check valve.

Was is difficult to start before you replaced these parts? If not, then it's probably not the injectors.

neilh

A little more history.
Moved from Atlanta to San Diego 5 months ago, car was transported, not driven
No problems when it arrived. Over the past 4 months became more difficult to start, same symptoms. Then noticed drops of gas on garage floor, turned out to be a split in tank, and the fuel line from filter forward to engine leaking at the steel to hose connection. Repaired and replaced all parts as listed above. No change in start problem.
I'll be pulling the fuel rails shortly to look for leaking injector(s), as Randy suggested, then check pressure if nothing found.
Cheers.
Neil

PorKen

Could be the cold start injector not firing.

Unplug the cold start thermo-time switch* and see if the symptoms remain. If so, then the switch, wiring, connections, or injector is suspect.

__________________
*Faces forward on the coolant bridge, under the fuel damper - brown connector.

neilh

PorKen, thanks for ideas.
Checked the cold start switch, cleaned the contacts ( they had a green growth on them) all readings right on per WSM , Valve looks good, no obvious signs of any break in wiring, etc.
Ran the car for a few miles to get to temp, came back, stop and immediately restarted. no problems
10 minutes later, no problems.
1 hour later, fired up but ran very rough ( sounded like all 8 were firing but lack of gas) for about 10 seconds, gently easing in on gas got it to hit full 'fire up' and ran perfectly.
No smoke from exhaust indicating flooded.
Stop and immediate restart, no problems.
Waited another hour and same exact starting problem.

Update...
let it sit for 2 + hours and 'cold' start was immediate, so maybe the green crud on contacts was a problem with cold start, but warm start still screwed up.

Still checking...

PorKen

Temp II sensor or connections? (On top of coolant bridge, with fuel injector type connector - the other sensor is temp gauge and light.)

L-Jet is very sensitive to this sensor.

jpitman2

Check the accumulator - it was my 'slow to start when half hot' problem. In front of right rear wheel, steel can 6" high, 2-3" dia, large dia down. If there is a breather hose on top going somewhere, disconnect, check for wet with fuel; if no hose, should be a screw in the top - remove, should NOT be wet , as this means diaphragm inside is leaking - mine was.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k

neilh

PorKen:
Temp II looks good, resistance in ranges shown in WSM, all wiring checked and looks good, removed and cleaned all ground connections and all connectors again - just in case.
No change in behavior.

Jpitman2:
No accumulator on my car, line from filter goes straight fwd to engine area.

I've been chasing warm start issues-

now plan to see if problem exists when cold
I.e. start, stop, immediate restart, wait 10 then retry, then 1 hour and retry, and see if it is temp related.
Neil

jpitman2

My PET shows accumulator on all models, even US/CAN. So when your delivery line comes out of filter, goes out hose and up under fender out of tank strapping, and fwd under fender and down the front of the rear wheel arch, it just joins the steel line going under the body to the front? Nothing hiding behind the cover in front of the rear wheel? Early cars had a pump in there also IIRC.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k

neilh

Nope, no fuel accumulator, nothing but 25 years of accumulated dirt. My car only has one external fuel pump, wiring is there for the second, but its not installed.
I've had the car since new, so i know it was never installed!

neilh

Update...
Problem does NOT exist when cold
I.e. start, stop, immediate restart, wait 10 then retry, then 1 hour and retry, fires up first time, every time...

So.. back to a leaky injector scenario? :-)