BC

I have not really done this before. I mean, I have filled them up before when installed, or watched it done.

Something about running it in drive to make it take up the fluid better? I get the changing the pan gasket and filter idea.

Synthetic fluid? And on the auto trans in the 85 auto, the rear end is separate right? I think thats right.

Any BTDT WYAIT?

BrianG

Drop the pan and clean it out. Replace the filter and gasket. Pull the plug in the torque converter and drain that too. Then refill and check level. Done.

Or, you can then intercept a transmission oil line and and flush the whole system with clean ATF to purge the old stuff from the lines and cooler as well.

BC

Thanks Brian. I was thinking it may be that simple, but what about making sure its full or being drawn in? Is that just bunk?

Tails

Try this http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html
Tails 1990 928 S4 Auto

jeff jackson

Does the 4 speed automatic transmission have a drain plug?? Or is it a "catch this mess" proposition...when you pull the pan ?? (Tells you how much time I've spent under the rear end of this car)...

the flyin' scotsman

Brendan.............there's a drain plug on both the tranny and torque convertor. Pull both and drain then remove pan and filter. Fit new filter, new pan gasket and new gaskets to the drain plugs. Replace pan and drain bolts, torque to spec and fill with fresh fluid of choice. Getting to the oil reservoir is a pain, take the right rear wheel off and rig a line from the res to a funnel suspended in the wheel well. Fill the tranny 'till it reaches the top level mark, start the car, do all the appropriate safety steps and run the tranny through the gears a few times. After the tranny is warm and with the engine still running fill some more again to the top mark.

Bill Ball

When I refilled mine, I dumped in whatever it would take initially to fill the reservoir and pan, ran it for a few seconds to suck the fluid into the tranny, converter and lines, but shut it down so as to not run it long with the fluid too low. Dripped in some more until it indicated full again. Started it up and shifted it through the gears, then put it in park and filled it up, checking it when warm to make sure the level was correct. Pain in the butt when done on the ground. A snap with a lift, of course. Problems snaking the line to the reservoir has lead to several ideas on how to do this. Some use a pump. I found that a lot of work and difficult unless you have the car on a lift. Others have threaded a fill line through the gas tank cover port, IIRC. I just snaked it over the supension and out the wheel well, like Malcolm apparently did. Sure helps if you have someone to fill while you check the level or vice versa. I've used Redline synthetic and Shell non-synthetic ($1.60 a quart). Naughty, hah?

Yes, the diff should be separate fluid.

borland

WSM covers the procedure for the 4-sp pretty well. However, it does not mention removing the reservoir prior to removing the pan. The pan can be removed with the reservoir attached, but removal allows for easier pan removal.

Road debri typically gets wedged between the pan and reservoir, so during pan cleaning, it's much easier to clean with it detached. I found gravel embedded in the pan gasket when I removed mine; so the previous mechanic failed to remove the tank and was a bit sloppy.

borland
90' S4, Slate Metallic

BC

Thanks Guys. I want to have the fluid analyzed like engine oil to see how its doing. So I do remember the drain plug on the pan now.

Ed Scherer

In case you'd like to build an el-cheapo DIY ATF pumper, here's what I did, since I already had some plastic tubing and a Mityvac on hand:



Also, a warning: on my '90 S4, I learned the hard way that when refilling, if I turned the engine off, the tranny would drain back into the reservoir and then overflow it. Make damn sure you cap the reservoir before you shut down the engine.

BC

Thanks Ed.

dr bob

Brendan--

Here's my step-by-step, borrowed back from the Nichols tips page:

http://www.nichols.nu/tip275.htm

FRporscheman

I took the spigot off of a kitchen dish-soap bottle (from safeway) and it fits perfectly onto a typical bottle of ATF. I just lie under the car and pump the fluid out just like soap. It takes a few minutes, but it was cheap and easy to set up and it makes no mess at all. When you crawl under there, take a channel-locking wrench with you for the reservoir cap - it's not necessary, per se, but it really helps get the cap off if it's on there tight, and it helps put it back on tight.

jpitman2

Per Tails excellent notes on this, ensure that you get gasket part no 126 271 11 80 (MB)....seems the old part (126 271 10 80) can still be bought, and its prone to splitting around the centre pan bolt.
When I did my 3 speed, the refill was add as much as it will take, run engine until level drops, shut off; repeat until correct level for temp is achieved. This updated gasket was documented on 9/94 (!!) by MB in Admin Msg 27A94091 for problems of gasket failure occurring approx 1 week after servicing boxes. Tails bought his kit with old gasket spec in 2002 from a Porsche dealer!!!
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k

SharkSkin

Another thing you might consider is cracking the top trans cooler line at the radiator to help drain the lines. Just don't forget to tighten before running!