I'm rich.
01-02-2006, 08:54 PM
#1
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I'm rich.
I put the 02 sensor I had new in box (four wire) into the 85 Euro. Nice easy access area on the Motorsport Xover. I can't quite figure out whats going on at idle (I only hooked up one wire of the four. Maybe I will hook up the heater wires so I have an idle reading.
But at accelleration, and when really getting on it, it goes up last 9 and into 125 or so. By that number i mean .9 into 1.25, but its not always on that scale.
I put in the adkj FPR when I did the fuel lines. I never even touched the thing since I had it on the 81 auto 4 years ago. Idle pressure is about 40lbs I think.
But at accelleration, and when really getting on it, it goes up last 9 and into 125 or so. By that number i mean .9 into 1.25, but its not always on that scale.
I put in the adkj FPR when I did the fuel lines. I never even touched the thing since I had it on the 81 auto 4 years ago. Idle pressure is about 40lbs I think.
01-02-2006, 09:02 PM
#2
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Hook up the heater wires and ground the sensor ground to a chassis ground or simply to whichever heater wire you make ground. Idle pressure should be around 30, not 40.
01-02-2006, 09:30 PM
#3
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I'll heat the sensor, but I was trying to get an innitial reading to see if I was way far off. Plus my solder iron was not heating well today. It was only like 60F and very rainy in San Diego, and its a butane one. So I crimped on the signal wire and hoped it would heat enough after a 20 minute drive.
01-02-2006, 10:55 PM
#4
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I have an O2 sensor installed on my Ott X pipe Brendan. This device signals the PLX wideband AF meter I keep in the glove box.
What are you doing with an O2 sensor? The LH box in an '85 S2 didn't recognize or need an O2 sensor...
N?
What are you doing with an O2 sensor? The LH box in an '85 S2 didn't recognize or need an O2 sensor...
N?
01-03-2006, 02:09 AM
#5
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I don't input it anywhere. It for my own purposes.
01-03-2006, 05:53 PM
#6
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I didn't hook up the heater wires yet, but I did get the car quite hot today on the way into the office. 80mph with a few stop lights between our SoCal Highways. Cruising is about 26-37mvdc, meaning .26 on the volt scale. Then upon accelleration into redline it goes past 100mvdc, and ends up at 195. This I am taking to mean 1.00 v and 1.95v. I'm not sure how thats true as I thought they stopped at 1V. The car, however, sounds very happy, and if it was that rich, I thought it would be running poorly. Well, like I said, its not.
01-03-2006, 06:02 PM
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mV = .001V not .01V
I think they should get up to a little over 1V, but 1.95V seems too far. Stoich should be .45-.50V. and the 'accurate' range is .2-.8V. When I tested my homemade A/F meter in my Jeep, it jumped off both ends of the scale (~.15-.95) pretty regularly. Then again it is MAP not MAF so the corrections are a little more spastic.
I think they should get up to a little over 1V, but 1.95V seems too far. Stoich should be .45-.50V. and the 'accurate' range is .2-.8V. When I tested my homemade A/F meter in my Jeep, it jumped off both ends of the scale (~.15-.95) pretty regularly. Then again it is MAP not MAF so the corrections are a little more spastic.
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01-03-2006, 06:08 PM
#8
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Oh....
So what am I doing wrong?
So what am I doing wrong?
01-03-2006, 06:16 PM
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Do you have the scale on your digital voltmeter set too low?
When I was testing on the Jeep, the heater made a big difference in warmup times even though the O2 sensor is only about 6" from the exhaust port. With yours in the X-pipe, it may not get warm enough (600*+) and would read a low voltage. Also, is yours thimble or planar? Most are thimbles and they take even longer to heat up. I think my Jeep uses planar and the VW one ($21.96 at NAPA) I bought for my 928 is planar.
When I was testing on the Jeep, the heater made a big difference in warmup times even though the O2 sensor is only about 6" from the exhaust port. With yours in the X-pipe, it may not get warm enough (600*+) and would read a low voltage. Also, is yours thimble or planar? Most are thimbles and they take even longer to heat up. I think my Jeep uses planar and the VW one ($21.96 at NAPA) I bought for my 928 is planar.
01-03-2006, 06:59 PM
#10
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Its a cap with slits and a hole at the end.
The voltmeter is older, but I set it at mv, 2V, 20 Volts, and 200, just to see where the decmal goes.
The voltmeter is older, but I set it at mv, 2V, 20 Volts, and 200, just to see where the decmal goes.
01-03-2006, 07:21 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by Normy
Ok, that's fine Brendan. I've got secrets too.
N!
N!
Meaning its to see whats going on. The car has no input for 02 as you say, but I have made come changes and need to see what the base maps are doing with the changes.
01-03-2006, 07:22 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by FlyingDog
The 2V setting should work right. I recall using the 3V setting on mine. It should display 0.00 or 0.000.
01-03-2006, 07:38 PM
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I've read that some digital multimeters can't keep up with the rapid changing of the O2 sensor output. I wouldn't think that would be a problem with an open loop car, but maybe it is.