Finally..the PICS of the 928 that has been sitting for 10years..thoughts?
#17
In Your Face, Ace
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A good ppi is going to reveal a crap load of work needed on that car. After that, $3500 might drive it off. Depending on what the final cost would be to sort that one out, it may be a decent deal. I'd prepare to keep looking though. There are a lot of well cared for 928's that could be purchased for what hat one will cost to be fixed....
#19
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Originally Posted by Abby
A good ppi is going to reveal a crap load of work needed on that car. After that, $3500 might drive it off. Depending on what the final cost would be to sort that one out, it may be a decent deal. I'd prepare to keep looking though. There are a lot of well cared for 928's that could be purchased for what hat one will cost to be fixed....
#20
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You've gotten a lot of advice here. 84-85 EURO's are hard to beat! (I may be a bit prejudiced, tho!). These 16V screamers can give fits to most ANY shark (ummm - well not a SC'd one!).
You say a "TEST DRIVE" today??? If it has sat for 10 years - I wouldn't plan for it to go more then a couple hundred feet!
There are other things that are going to need attention....other then what has already been mentioned:
-Plan on replacing almost EVERY hose on that car - including all the vac hoses and fuel lines....most ALL of the fuel delivery - including the injectors, as they are surely clogged...along with the fuel pumps, filters and a thorough drain and clean of the tank.
-Brake pistons may be rusted in place, or severely hampered in their operation - sitting that long...brake fluid is a moisture magnet - and the brake system may need lots of work.
-LOTS of $$ in rubber seals and weather stripping.
-That dash is NOT an easy or inexpensive replacement.
-Be prepared for NUMEROUS rotted electrical connections and gremlins.
I'm not trying to be the grim reaper, here. We have just seen WAY too many folks try to do a resto of a car in this condition - and they usually end up either parting out, giving up and selling cheap, OR - putting $15k into a car worth $7500. We just all want you to fully understand what you are getting into.
Even with the minimal info we have - I would estimate that you are going to have (at MINIMUM) $2500 in parts and HUNDREDS of hours of your labor invested before this car is ready for regular drives to work.
It is GOOD that you have wrenching skills - but this is NOT a 930!
If you pass on it - not to worry, as there will be other opportunities....
If you move forward - I sincerely wish you the BEST of luck...and I am sure we will get to know you well, as you WILL be posting LOTS of questions here.
As a point of reference - I bought my '85 EURO a few years back - in almost PERFECT condition (in a pic from last years SITM - someone labeled it "One of the nicest EURO's you will ever see")...and I paid UNDER $6500 and drove it 800 miles home. YES- I got a killer deal...but I was also patient in my search.
You say a "TEST DRIVE" today??? If it has sat for 10 years - I wouldn't plan for it to go more then a couple hundred feet!
There are other things that are going to need attention....other then what has already been mentioned:
-Plan on replacing almost EVERY hose on that car - including all the vac hoses and fuel lines....most ALL of the fuel delivery - including the injectors, as they are surely clogged...along with the fuel pumps, filters and a thorough drain and clean of the tank.
-Brake pistons may be rusted in place, or severely hampered in their operation - sitting that long...brake fluid is a moisture magnet - and the brake system may need lots of work.
-LOTS of $$ in rubber seals and weather stripping.
-That dash is NOT an easy or inexpensive replacement.
-Be prepared for NUMEROUS rotted electrical connections and gremlins.
I'm not trying to be the grim reaper, here. We have just seen WAY too many folks try to do a resto of a car in this condition - and they usually end up either parting out, giving up and selling cheap, OR - putting $15k into a car worth $7500. We just all want you to fully understand what you are getting into.
Even with the minimal info we have - I would estimate that you are going to have (at MINIMUM) $2500 in parts and HUNDREDS of hours of your labor invested before this car is ready for regular drives to work.
It is GOOD that you have wrenching skills - but this is NOT a 930!
If you pass on it - not to worry, as there will be other opportunities....
If you move forward - I sincerely wish you the BEST of luck...and I am sure we will get to know you well, as you WILL be posting LOTS of questions here.
As a point of reference - I bought my '85 EURO a few years back - in almost PERFECT condition (in a pic from last years SITM - someone labeled it "One of the nicest EURO's you will ever see")...and I paid UNDER $6500 and drove it 800 miles home. YES- I got a killer deal...but I was also patient in my search.
#21
Drifting
LOL rc's friend wants 20 and some here might throw 3500 at this one. Next we'll see someone saying that they should be paid to take it.
But Yasin,
I WOULD NOT DRIVE A 928 THAT HAD SAT FOR 10 YEARS!!
But Yasin,
I WOULD NOT DRIVE A 928 THAT HAD SAT FOR 10 YEARS!!
#22
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by Mark
You've gotten a lot of advice here. 84-85 EURO's are hard to beat! (I may be a bit prejudiced, tho!). These 16V screamers can give fits to most ANY shark (ummm - well not a SC'd one!).
You say a "TEST DRIVE" today??? If it has sat for 10 years - I wouldn't plan for it to go more then a couple hundred feet!
There are other things that are going to need attention....other then what has already been mentioned:
-Plan on replacing almost EVERY hose on that car - including all the vac hoses and fuel lines....most ALL of the fuel delivery - including the injectors, as they are surely clogged...along with the fuel pumps, filters and a thorough drain and clean of the tank.
-Brake pistons may be rusted in place, or severely hampered in their operation - sitting that long...brake fluid is a moisture magnet - and the brake system may need lots of work.
-LOTS of $$ in rubber seals and weather stripping.
-That dash is NOT an easy or inexpensive replacement.
-Be prepared for NUMEROUS rotted electrical connections and gremlins.
I'm not trying to be the grim reaper, here. We have just seen WAY too many folks try to do a resto of a car in this condition - and they usually end up either parting out, giving up and selling cheap, OR - putting $15k into a car worth $7500. We just all want you to fully understand what you are getting into.
Even with the minimal info we have - I would estimate that you are going to have (at MINIMUM) $2500 in parts and HUNDREDS of hours of your labor invested before this car is ready for regular drives to work.
It is GOOD that you have wrenching skills - but this is NOT a 930!
If you pass on it - not to worry, as there will be other opportunities....
If you move forward - I sincerely wish you the BEST of luck...and I am sure we will get to know you well, as you WILL be posting LOTS of questions here.
As a point of reference - I bought my '85 EURO a few years back - in almost PERFECT condition (in a pic from last years SITM - someone labeled it "One of the nicest EURO's you will ever see")...and I paid UNDER $6500 and drove it 800 miles home. YES- I got a killer deal...but I was also patient in my search.
You say a "TEST DRIVE" today??? If it has sat for 10 years - I wouldn't plan for it to go more then a couple hundred feet!
There are other things that are going to need attention....other then what has already been mentioned:
-Plan on replacing almost EVERY hose on that car - including all the vac hoses and fuel lines....most ALL of the fuel delivery - including the injectors, as they are surely clogged...along with the fuel pumps, filters and a thorough drain and clean of the tank.
-Brake pistons may be rusted in place, or severely hampered in their operation - sitting that long...brake fluid is a moisture magnet - and the brake system may need lots of work.
-LOTS of $$ in rubber seals and weather stripping.
-That dash is NOT an easy or inexpensive replacement.
-Be prepared for NUMEROUS rotted electrical connections and gremlins.
I'm not trying to be the grim reaper, here. We have just seen WAY too many folks try to do a resto of a car in this condition - and they usually end up either parting out, giving up and selling cheap, OR - putting $15k into a car worth $7500. We just all want you to fully understand what you are getting into.
Even with the minimal info we have - I would estimate that you are going to have (at MINIMUM) $2500 in parts and HUNDREDS of hours of your labor invested before this car is ready for regular drives to work.
It is GOOD that you have wrenching skills - but this is NOT a 930!
If you pass on it - not to worry, as there will be other opportunities....
If you move forward - I sincerely wish you the BEST of luck...and I am sure we will get to know you well, as you WILL be posting LOTS of questions here.
As a point of reference - I bought my '85 EURO a few years back - in almost PERFECT condition (in a pic from last years SITM - someone labeled it "One of the nicest EURO's you will ever see")...and I paid UNDER $6500 and drove it 800 miles home. YES- I got a killer deal...but I was also patient in my search.
One of my biggest regrets (IMO) is buying my S4 (besides that - the PO didnt disclose all of her issues prior to my purchase - another story - another time). I should of went with another Euro.
At least I race one on the track
#23
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Just looked at the pics again - a couple more observations:
-That wing isn't the only thing off of a S4 - it has S4 wheels.
-Has it been wrecked? Is that red overspray on the gas tank - hard to tell from the pics...also - rear light covers appear to be ill-fitting - I am guessing a rear-ender at some point.
-That wing isn't the only thing off of a S4 - it has S4 wheels.
-Has it been wrecked? Is that red overspray on the gas tank - hard to tell from the pics...also - rear light covers appear to be ill-fitting - I am guessing a rear-ender at some point.
#25
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Mark - Thank you for taking the time for the detailed reply - much appreciated. It does truly concern me that the car has sat for a long time and that I COULD be throwing good money after bad - something that scares me. I do not mind spending a couple grand over time to make the car right over time, but headgasket replacements makes me grit my teeth (hopefully it does not come to that).
My test drive will only be around the block - no worries, the VERY cracked tires will ensure that I do not wander far.
More updates to come!!!
Yasin
My test drive will only be around the block - no worries, the VERY cracked tires will ensure that I do not wander far.
More updates to come!!!
Yasin
#26
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Originally Posted by slownrusty
Mark - Thank you for taking the time for the detailed reply - much appreciated. It does truly concern me that the car has sat for a long time and that I COULD be throwing good money after bad - something that scares me. I do not mind spending a couple grand over time to make the car right over time, but headgasket replacements makes me grit my teeth (hopefully it does not come to that).
My test drive will only be around the block - no worries, the VERY cracked tires will ensure that I do not wander far.
More updates to come!!!
Yasin
My test drive will only be around the block - no worries, the VERY cracked tires will ensure that I do not wander far.
More updates to come!!!
Yasin
BTW - replacing those head gaskets is "a walk in the park" compared to the teeth-gritting you're gonna do when you do your motor mounts (and they WILL be needing replacement!).
#27
928 OB-Wan
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interesting find,
couple notes:
I doubt the mileage is true, the odo has been swapped and without documents it's TMU
after 10 yrs of sitting you could literally spend $$$$$s getting it mechanically right
seats look like they came out of an earlier car with the door inserts, they look nice and new but the door panels are pretty faded
plan on spending months or years finding a good dash (add $500-1000)
I could see this taking $4-5k to make it truly road ready
couple notes:
I doubt the mileage is true, the odo has been swapped and without documents it's TMU
after 10 yrs of sitting you could literally spend $$$$$s getting it mechanically right
seats look like they came out of an earlier car with the door inserts, they look nice and new but the door panels are pretty faded
plan on spending months or years finding a good dash (add $500-1000)
I could see this taking $4-5k to make it truly road ready
#28
Man of many SIGs
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The fact that its a 5 speed and a Euro are very good things. They will add immensly to the enjoyment factor once you get the car road worthy. Just listen to all the advice here because we have all been down this road. And that road can get very expensive. Especially on a car that has sat for this long. Any car that has sat for 10 years is gonna need a lot of parts and TLC, even a Toyota. But 928 parts just cost alot more than Toyaota parts. No matter what people tell you I would guess that its gonna boil down to how badly you want this car. If its a shark you are after, maybe you should continue to look around. I agree that you should be able to get that car for less than $5,500. I would shoot real low and see where it goes. Find every possible problem and then price out the parts to fix those problems. Present the list to the owner and offer him around $3,000 for the car. He probably won't bite at that low of a price but negotiations will certainly keep the sale price reasonable. If you take your time looking at a bunch of sharks you will undoubtedly find a super deal on a car that will need much less work. It just takes alot of time and patience. Good luck.
#29
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When I bought my Weissach, the owner was asking $5500 and when I explained to him all the $$$ that each maintenance item would cost in parts/labor, he came down to $2900. I said how he had "ducked out" on these normal costs and was getting out easy by selling it without being a good owner. I had $2800 more into it in parts to get it roadworthy and sold it for my actual cost to an addict in Texas...
#30
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My car had the same sort of hesitation when I first got it. I'm not sure exactly what the problem was, but it went away after replacing all the rubber hoses, cleaning out all the injection lines, and re-gasketing the CIS plenum.