Rod Underwood

Is there any recommended procedure for refurbishing the idle stabilizer valve? I'll have my intake off to replace with a newly powder coated one and this seems to be a very expensive item that needs attention. I currently have no problem, but...

I would like to do preventive maintenance instead of a $229.00 new one, but if that's the only route...

Thanks
Rod

Jim bailey - 928 International

There are at least two failure modes . They sometimes get gummed up sticky and the WD40 into the hose trick sometimes frees them up. The unit also has brushes (electric motor) which can wear.

Gregg K

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/219722-wd40-pic-which-hose-idle-stabilizer.html

Rod Underwood

Jim,

I've done the WD40 and I really have no problem, but since I'm going to be in there anyway I thought I should ask. I need to order a gasket and hose set from you in the near future. Maybe Santa will continue to be nice to me. ;-)

Is there a recommended cleaning procedure when it's out of the car? What to do, what to avoid. I did the WD 40 as preventive, but no problem.
Are the brushes something that I could replace or is it done when they wear out?

Thanks
Rod

Rod Underwood

Did this and as I indicated I really have no problem, but if there was something that I could do while everything is torn down, I thought I should do it.

Thanks
Rod

Dave H.

replace it.

bgrabner

I vote for the replacement too - I know its not a cheap part, but since you won't know if the fix actually works until you button everything back up, risking yet another intake teardown and all the associated frustration with that, I think it is worth it. I just replaced mine due to an erratic idle and it did the trick...

Rod Underwood

It's awful when you know the answer, but hope that there is an alternative. ;-)

Thanks everyone, now to save some cash. Hmmm... I wonder if I'll get something that I can return for Christmas? ;-)

Rod

borland

Don't forget to replace the flappy vacuum actuator too.

With all the other expenses (breather hoses, coolant thermostat, gaskets, fuel lines, knock sensors, fuel injector kits, powder coating), the cost of the Idle-Izer will not seem that bad.

John Veninger

I removed and clean mine 5 years ago with good results.
The GT would stall when hot and coming to a stop. I removed the intake to get powder coated and didn't want to spend the $200+ for the valve. I spent 15min. spraying it with cleaner and using Q-tips to clean the slider.
I did all this knowing that I might have to go back in and replace it. So far so good.

geekapalooza

Before I did the Intake R&R job about 2 yrs ago, the idle would "hunt" and stay up about 900 RPM's, tried the WD-40 trick multiple times w/no luck. Here's the reason why in pic below (massive vacuum leak at the hose that connects to the idle stabilizer valve).

I vote for saving the $$, and just cleaning the valve, which has worked fine for me. You can also test the valve while it's out with a 9V battery to ensure it works properly.

Check the throttle position switch while you're in there. Mine was working at idle position, but not at WOT. The "seat o the pants" meter told me this made a difference in performance too, after the fix.

Cheers,
Rob
87 S4 - 53K Miles

aaron3

I can jump on the list of those that pulled it, cleaned it with about a gallon of WD-40, tested it with a battery, and put it back in. Works fine for me after a year. I also had an issue with a hot stall when coming to a stop.

I know Tony has relocated his ISV. His air plumbing is not stock anymore though and it was a pretty easy move. Someone should figure out an alternate location for this valve that is accessible for stock intake. The one thing that continually struck me when I was pulling off the intake was the number of vacuum lines, hoses, and mechanical devices that are absolutely inaccessible without complete removal of the intake. There has to be 3 little vacuum lines under the air body, the flappy, the ISV, etc. etc. It seems that hoses can be buried because they are clamped at both ends. But a mechanical part that is essential to proper operation? This is the first car I've ever really worked on in that detail so maybe it has to be that way, but I kept on thinking that the design was not good.

Schocki

I just replaced mine while powdercoating. I tried to open the old ISV and successfully removed the rear connector cover. There is nothing inside that can be replaced. Mine worked for 12 years and finally gave up (sub idle on cold start). If the new ISV lasts 12 years again it will be just fine.
When you take the manifold off, lift it up about 2-3 inches and you can take the bolts out (4 total) that hold the ISV/MAF assembly to the manifold. This allows for an easy manifold removal