(hatch release) Pin Switch - What does it do ??
12-19-2005, 03:21 PM
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(hatch release) Pin Switch - What does it do ??
Hi all 
Where my rear hatch closes into the receiver part of the lock....screwed into the bottom of the lock is what looks like a door pin switch with a plunger that is depressed when hatch is shut..
Can anyone please tell me what this switch does as mine is jammed solid....Porsche want around £40 for it (they call it rear lid unlocking device) part no....928 613 114 00
As far as i can tell it has nothing to do with "unlocking" anything as my hatch lock works perfectly both on key and pulls by seats.
The ONLY thing at back of car im uncertain about is the hatch light at top of glass,,this does not come on when hatch is opened and can only be turned on manually....is this what that pin switch is for ?
All the best Brett
928 S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH PROMAX CHIPS, RMB, KICKDOWN SWITCH.
Where my rear hatch closes into the receiver part of the lock....screwed into the bottom of the lock is what looks like a door pin switch with a plunger that is depressed when hatch is shut..
Can anyone please tell me what this switch does as mine is jammed solid....Porsche want around £40 for it (they call it rear lid unlocking device) part no....928 613 114 00
As far as i can tell it has nothing to do with "unlocking" anything as my hatch lock works perfectly both on key and pulls by seats.
The ONLY thing at back of car im uncertain about is the hatch light at top of glass,,this does not come on when hatch is opened and can only be turned on manually....is this what that pin switch is for ?
All the best Brett
928 S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH PROMAX CHIPS, RMB, KICKDOWN SWITCH.
Last edited by Randy V; 12-19-2005 at 09:54 PM.
12-19-2005, 04:08 PM
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Brett,
If I understand, the switch you describe does indeed operate the interior lights just like a door pin switch. If you have an alarm it also tells whether the hatch is open or closed. It sounds like yours is stuck in the position indicating hatch closed (light off).
If you can get to it you might be able to free it up with wd-40 or something.
Good luck,
Dave McK.
If I understand, the switch you describe does indeed operate the interior lights just like a door pin switch. If you have an alarm it also tells whether the hatch is open or closed. It sounds like yours is stuck in the position indicating hatch closed (light off).
If you can get to it you might be able to free it up with wd-40 or something.
Good luck,
Dave McK.
12-19-2005, 04:09 PM
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Three Wheelin'
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Hi,
Number 32 which threads into bottom of number 11 and has wires off into rear elecrical harness..
All the best Brett
928 S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH PROMAX CHIPS, RMB, KICKDOWN SWITCH.
Number 32 which threads into bottom of number 11 and has wires off into rear elecrical harness..
All the best Brett
928 S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH PROMAX CHIPS, RMB, KICKDOWN SWITCH.
12-19-2005, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
Brett,
If I understand, the switch you describe does indeed operate the interior lights just like a door pin switch. If you have an alarm it also tells whether the hatch is open or closed. It sounds like yours is stuck in the position indicating hatch closed (light off).
If you can get to it you might be able to free it up with wd-40 or something.
Good luck,
Dave McK.
If I understand, the switch you describe does indeed operate the interior lights just like a door pin switch. If you have an alarm it also tells whether the hatch is open or closed. It sounds like yours is stuck in the position indicating hatch closed (light off).
If you can get to it you might be able to free it up with wd-40 or something.
Good luck,
Dave McK.
I have the switch OUT lol
If it does activate the rear top hatch light (does yours come on when hatch is opened and work on timer like my door lights do ????) I refuse to pay £40 for a pin switch so will drill a normal pin switch into rear bottom lid...
All the best Brett
928 S2 AUTO V8 4.7 LTR 1986 IRIS METALLIC BLUE WITH PROMAX CHIPS, RMB, KICKDOWN SWITCH.
12-19-2005, 04:32 PM
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Brett,
It isnt #32 - that is located at the handbrake cover - look again. This diagram appears not to show the switch you need.
It is indeed a pin switch - integrated into the bottom of the lock mechanism. When the hatch is open the switch contact close...
It isn't likley to affect only your hatch light. This pin switch goes to the interior lights (direct drive - no on delay - no timeout). It should switch all the interior lights - seems yours is stuck open so it has no effect.
It does also go to the alarm as stated - currently it isn't working for the alarm of course... You should be able to R&R the switch - its a very basic design - stuck or corroded contacts - likely just needs cleaning unless the spring is beyond repair - if so try Ace or similar for a close equiv. spring.
Seems likely your hatch light has a seperate problem - you will have to pull it and check the bulb (if it never goes on) or the connection (they break easily - especially on removal & re-insertion) the switched connection is the brown/ white from the pin switch....
Alan
It isnt #32 - that is located at the handbrake cover - look again. This diagram appears not to show the switch you need.
It is indeed a pin switch - integrated into the bottom of the lock mechanism. When the hatch is open the switch contact close...
It isn't likley to affect only your hatch light. This pin switch goes to the interior lights (direct drive - no on delay - no timeout). It should switch all the interior lights - seems yours is stuck open so it has no effect.
It does also go to the alarm as stated - currently it isn't working for the alarm of course... You should be able to R&R the switch - its a very basic design - stuck or corroded contacts - likely just needs cleaning unless the spring is beyond repair - if so try Ace or similar for a close equiv. spring.
Seems likely your hatch light has a seperate problem - you will have to pull it and check the bulb (if it never goes on) or the connection (they break easily - especially on removal & re-insertion) the switched connection is the brown/ white from the pin switch....
Alan
12-19-2005, 04:55 PM
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Brett,
Unplug the connector to the switch (you did already oif you removed it). Test the operation by shorting this connector to the chassis (thats what the switch does) you should see that it turns on the interior lights.
The switch justs seems to be shown merged with the locking mechanism in the picture - the later model PET's are slightly different but still don't show the switch - just the connector tail
Alan
Unplug the connector to the switch (you did already oif you removed it). Test the operation by shorting this connector to the chassis (thats what the switch does) you should see that it turns on the interior lights.
The switch justs seems to be shown merged with the locking mechanism in the picture - the later model PET's are slightly different but still don't show the switch - just the connector tail
Alan
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12-19-2005, 04:58 PM
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Hi Brett,
The hatch and door pin switches all close a switched ground which turns on all the interior lights. I'm not sure but I think the delay should work the same hatch or doors.
If you can't rehab the old switch, I think any regular pin switch which grounds the brown/white striped wire from the old switch upon opening the hatch should work fine.
As Alan says, each of the interior lights can be its own little problem. Each has 3 wires going to it: 12V, ground(brown) and switched ground(brown/white) from the door and trunk pin switches. Check for good contact, power and watch for shorting the 12V to the chassis.
Good luck,
Dave
The hatch and door pin switches all close a switched ground which turns on all the interior lights. I'm not sure but I think the delay should work the same hatch or doors.
If you can't rehab the old switch, I think any regular pin switch which grounds the brown/white striped wire from the old switch upon opening the hatch should work fine.
As Alan says, each of the interior lights can be its own little problem. Each has 3 wires going to it: 12V, ground(brown) and switched ground(brown/white) from the door and trunk pin switches. Check for good contact, power and watch for shorting the 12V to the chassis.
Good luck,
Dave
12-19-2005, 05:17 PM
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I just replaced my "Interior Light Delay Relay"...in my 86.5. Funny thing is...before replacing the relay, the Inteior lights would only work at best "intermittently", when either the doors or the hatch was opened, and in either case...I had NO DELAY. Put the new relay in....part number is 928 618 225 01 BTW...and shazaaam...all lights working everytime, and with the most pleasing 15 seconds delay after doors or hatch are closed. Now for the strange part...my OLD relay works fine too now. Thats right...I pulled the new one out, and replaced the original relay in the fuse/relay board...Believe its relay XX1 in my 86.5...and now all the lights and delay function are working fine with the OE relay too. Why they didn't before ...is a mystery to me. The contacts appeared to be spotlessly clean, and there is absolutely no difference between the OE relay, and the new replacement piece. Shame too...cause the relay is a pretty expensive part, and now I have 2 of them. BTW...I have the 15 second delay after the Hatch is opened and shut as well as the doors. 
12-19-2005, 06:52 PM
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So I've heard... and I agree that theres no "black and white " reason, that my car now has the delay no matter which triggers "turn on" the Interior Lights. Now...if I "start the car" while the delay is still in progress...all the lights extinguish immediately. But...I just ran out and "tested" the Rear Hatch. The Interior lights came on immediately...(so did my Viper alarm...MY BAD)...but, after silencing the alarm chirps..., and closing the rear hatch securely...I still had an approximate 15 second delay before all the interior lights extinguished. I know the alarm system is installed correctly (had it professionally done by a Directed Electronics installer shop..Custom Sounds, in Florrisant MO.)...and all systems are operating perfectly (Remote Start, Rear Hatch Release, and Rear Defogger functions). But with either of my Interior Light Delay relays installed...I get exactly the same behavior. And I LIKE it !!! 
12-19-2005, 06:59 PM
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Ahhh... Alarm System....
With an aftermarket alarm systems all things can change....
Quite likely all the inputs from the pin switches have been used on the new alarm as triggers and a dome light supervision output may now feed the interior light relay.... well its a possibility anyway - and agreed not a bad thing at all...
Why did the alarm come on after opening the hatch?? - there is a signal from the rear lock that should be used to disarm...
Alan
With an aftermarket alarm systems all things can change....
Quite likely all the inputs from the pin switches have been used on the new alarm as triggers and a dome light supervision output may now feed the interior light relay.... well its a possibility anyway - and agreed not a bad thing at all...
Why did the alarm come on after opening the hatch?? - there is a signal from the rear lock that should be used to disarm...
Alan
12-19-2005, 07:27 PM
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Alan...
You really ARE a quite gifted electrial brain. You are right again my friend. After reading through the 72 page "Owners guide" for my Remote Start / Alarm system...there is "indeed" a dome light supervision "included" with this system. Hence the peculiar "delay" of interior lights via the rear hatch trigger. Incidentally... the Viper System "appears" to peacefully co-exist...with the factory alarm system on my car anyway. This in itself, is amazing...as I am the 3rd owner of this car, and personally "ripped out" the alarm systems intalled by the 2 previous owners. One was Alpine...the other Kenwood...and they were BOTh wired together in some fiendish "hybrid" fashion. Not to mention the "ancient" K40 front and rear Radar modules etc. etc. I did my best to rid the car of all this PO rats nest under the dash stuff...and return the car to as close to the stock "factory alarm" car as I was capable of...then took it to my trusty friendto install the Viper system, without all the birds nest of PO installed electronics of "antiquity"...Well nough of this rant ...carry on.
You really ARE a quite gifted electrial brain. You are right again my friend. After reading through the 72 page "Owners guide" for my Remote Start / Alarm system...there is "indeed" a dome light supervision "included" with this system. Hence the peculiar "delay" of interior lights via the rear hatch trigger. Incidentally... the Viper System "appears" to peacefully co-exist...with the factory alarm system on my car anyway. This in itself, is amazing...as I am the 3rd owner of this car, and personally "ripped out" the alarm systems intalled by the 2 previous owners. One was Alpine...the other Kenwood...and they were BOTh wired together in some fiendish "hybrid" fashion. Not to mention the "ancient" K40 front and rear Radar modules etc. etc. I did my best to rid the car of all this PO rats nest under the dash stuff...and return the car to as close to the stock "factory alarm" car as I was capable of...then took it to my trusty friendto install the Viper system, without all the birds nest of PO installed electronics of "antiquity"...Well nough of this rant ...carry on.
Last edited by jeff jackson; 12-19-2005 at 07:45 PM.
12-19-2005, 07:43 PM
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Alan...in answer to your question about "why did opening the hatch trigger the alarm"...this I'm afraid there is a simple explanation for. My 86.5 factory alarmed car, rear hatch lock mechanism (upper/ with the key)...BROKE internally...My only recourse, was to buy a new upper lock, and have it "re-keyed" to match my system...OR...I found a "like new" complete rear latch/lock assy. from a recycled parts vendor (I'll keep them anonymous) and swapped out, just the upper lock assembly. Solved my problem completely at a fraction of the cost of a new part for a Factory alarm car, but now I have to use the separate key for the rear hatch...vs. the key for the doors, and glove box. Small price to pay for the savings though. But...that is why opening the hatch, triggerred the alarm...I think ??? 
12-19-2005, 11:54 PM
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Jeff,
Humm, unless the new lock lacks the alarm functions or only has a short non-alarm key it should still work the same (and disarm the alarm).
Seems you have the remote hatch release via the alarm - does this work OK & so is it just the key that sets off the alarm?
Your upper lock mechanism should have 3 connections to a harness in the hatch lid (pull the rear edge trim) - make sure this connector is mated correctly... The different key should only mean you need to carry one extra key (and not really even that if you use the remote hatch release...)
Alan
Humm, unless the new lock lacks the alarm functions or only has a short non-alarm key it should still work the same (and disarm the alarm).
Seems you have the remote hatch release via the alarm - does this work OK & so is it just the key that sets off the alarm?
Your upper lock mechanism should have 3 connections to a harness in the hatch lid (pull the rear edge trim) - make sure this connector is mated correctly... The different key should only mean you need to carry one extra key (and not really even that if you use the remote hatch release...)
Alan