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Parking brake system = 10lbs

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Old 12-13-2005, 10:39 PM
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PorKen
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Default Parking brake system = 10lbs

If you cared to know.

4 lbs interior: lever, steel covers, hardware
6 lbs exterior: cables, brake shoes*, hardware

No more thigh bruises, or squeeky rubbing shoes.

I bought a pair of lightweight wheel chucks for no-curb-hill-parking.

*You can't remove the steel brake shoe rub plates without removing the hubs, so there's another pound, yet.
Old 12-13-2005, 11:27 PM
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Damn, Ken... what's your curb weight now? I bet that car goes like snot now, between all the weight savings, cam tweakage, etc.
Old 12-14-2005, 01:04 AM
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PorKen
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Forgot to mention: I put a bolt, washers, and nut through one of the shoe spring holes to hold the brake shoe backing plates in place. They have something of a friction fit, but it would be bad if they got loose, and rubbed against the hub/rotor.
...

Dave,

It's wicked fast; corners so hard that now I have to worry about oil starvation!

I don't know what my street weight is. I need to take some cardboard to the transfer station (dump), and find out!

I detuned my engine a bit when ga$ got to be three bucks; only 2 degrees cam advance. But at the weight now, I didn't even notice the change! (I did notice 2 degrees retard though, which I tried on the way down to SharkFest, no giddy'up, and no better mileage.)
Old 12-14-2005, 01:15 AM
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heinrich
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Ken you are an animal ... did I say floor deletion?
Old 12-14-2005, 12:40 PM
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Ken, sounds like a hoot! Next time I'll have to bum a quick ride from you & check it out. Sounds like the scales near you are a bit retentive... there is a set of scales near the public dump here... the scales are always on, I can go anytime 24-7 and weigh on 3 different scales -- I find that usually 2 agree and one is off 20 lbs. The first time I drove up and asked the guy, he looked at me as if I had two heads -- told me just drive on and read the numbers, don't bother him...
Old 12-14-2005, 04:13 PM
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Heinrich,

Not the floor per se. But... "(The battery box) tasks me, and I shall have (it)."
Old 12-14-2005, 04:17 PM
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You know Ken I wonder about just how much of the seat entrails is actually required ....
Old 12-14-2005, 04:43 PM
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Ken - you are the guy to talk to about this.

I sat in my 78 last night for about an hour. My *** is killing me.

Its a roller right now. It is painted and the doors are on. I am adding sound deadening to make the car good for daily 50 or more mile jaunts, up and down San Diego county for work, but I do want it as light as possible.

It needs to be safe though. I'm looking at the aluminum rails in the doors. Is there a lighter but stronger way to put a rod in those doors that you can see? Simple measurement and taping for a new rod of any shape. I need glass, but not specifically the rear stuff. Side windows and motors must stay, interior panels have neen lightened a bit but must stay.

The interior is not put in and I starred at it last night trying to figure out places to subtract ounces here and there. I am on a no-sugar diet right now, and 20 pounds COULD be useful. I need the parking brake.

I will have a lightweight starter, but a supercharger and its heavy brackets. No headlights, no 78 iron-boat-anchor-batterybox, and a light exhaust, but probably dual with a X-over. Headers are 32V LII, and the engine will me an 89S4 engine. Wiring harness will be very light, and there will be racing seats. no rear seats per say, but possibly the bottom cushions which are quite light.

I don't need heat very often, but sometimes it could come in handy. AC must stay. No sunroof. I even removed all the brackets from the engine bay I don't need by drilling out the welds. No window washer system of any kind right now, I may add the smaller tank, but you clean your windows in San Diego life once a decade.

Dash looks heavy, but I do not wish to give up too much in t he interior that will make the car look half assed. Maybe I could chunk out some of t hat heavy padding in the dash?

Any other ideas?
Old 12-14-2005, 04:47 PM
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No Cruise control. no ABS (I may install that when I go to big brakes - S4 carriers and the pump and computer, but it looks very complex.

The computer will even be lighter then OEM. Less wires in the engine bay.

I was looking at the doors, but I don't see much room for removing stuff, past cutting it all out like the racers do when they have cages.
Old 12-14-2005, 04:50 PM
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Brendan is all the thick sound deadening out off the door interiors and rest of the car?
Old 12-14-2005, 05:08 PM
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I removed every last bit of sound deadening that porsche put on. Its painted metal now, all on the interior, and the firewall.

I have reinstalled sound deadening, and continue to, as I think that is what makes a car un-livable. I need to be on the phone in a car, and be able to hear the engine and radio. Its about 30 pounds or more worth of deadening.

I wish to take OTHER stuff out and keep the car quiet/livable and enjoyable.
Old 12-14-2005, 05:33 PM
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*You can't remove the steel brake shoe rub plates without removing the hubs, so there's another pound, yet
How about machining off the parking brake drums off of the rear rotors?
Old 12-14-2005, 07:29 PM
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Heinrich,

I suppose I could cut out #2. That would make the seat lower too!


-84 L 928 501 055 60 seat support (056 R)

Originally Posted by BrendanC
Dash looks heavy, but I do not wish to give up too much in t he interior that will make the car look half assed.
I agree, there's a line I've drawn where I want to keep the character of the original design. For example, replacing the pod, or deleting the console would make the car less a 928, but I have thought about it.

You don't have much left!

~ I need one of those fancy starters.
~ I'd like to have a custom wiring harness, I have a large amount of heavy, unused wires now.

~ Did you remove the rear upper seat center brackets? I intend to do that soon.
~ I bought some aluminum tread plate, which I intend to replace the heavy steel dead pedal with.
~ 928 505 017 02 'impact pipes' instead of bumper shocks. I would consider returning my front bumper if I had some aluminum tubes to hold it.
~ The dash is sheet steel. I've thought about making an aluminum tube frame, covered with one of those dash covers (and perhaps cover that with leather).
~ I would leave the aluminum intrusion bar. I don't think you can remove it anyway, it has four bolts vs. the steel's two, and looks like it was installed before the door skin.
...

John,

The brake drum is part of the cone that spaces the rotor back. I suppose the cone could be thinned some.

Next pad change I'm going to install drilled rotors for weight.
Old 12-14-2005, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by PorKen
You don't have much left!
Thats what I mean!
Originally Posted by PorKen
~ I need one of those fancy starters.
They are lighter by far, but also a bit less expensive when you find the original distributor. Its a japanese motor with a 928 plate.
Originally Posted by PorKen
~ I'd like to have a custom wiring harness, I have a large amount of heavy, unused wires now.
American auto Wire

Originally Posted by PorKen
~ Did you remove the rear upper seat center brackets? I intend to do that soon.
~ I bought some aluminum tread plate, which I intend to replace the heavy steel dead pedal with.
Ah, yes, the rear seat things. I thought about it. It would preclude anyone sitting back there, ever. I have thought about it.
The dead pedal was something I forgot about. It IS very heavy. Weird. I had planned on some simple belt aluminum put in its place and polished. But backed with sound deadening.
Originally Posted by PorKen
~ 928 505 017 02 'impact pipes' instead of bumper shocks. I would consider returning my front bumper if I had some aluminum tubes to hold it.
Hmmm. Thanks for the part number. They wouldn't be much different.
Old 12-14-2005, 07:57 PM
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On the door bar, I guess I just saw the bolts and assumed it would come out. Maybe it wouldn't. No glass or anything is in the doors right now, so I would have full access.

Wouldn't steel be better? You could use less but it would be stronger?


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