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I wanted to give a progress update, I was able to plumb and get my Inter-cooler connected up over the past weekend including a switch to run the pump.
However once the engine got up to temp, I started to see water out the exhaust (two small 4" puddles.
I then drained the distilled water out of the reservoir tank and used my mitivac to push it out the Intercooler from the top to the rear inlet.
All is as it was before, two steps forward one back
Other than getting the Shark Tuner MK1 all set up for tuning, I'm shelving this project, will pull the engine this winter go through it and start fresh in the spring.
Current state is drive-able, but only local and cool days.
Sorry to hear that Dave. Frustrating for sure. Good luck with it.
Good news, the inlet and the idle stabilizer adapter fit with plenty of clearance. No collision issues with the linkage or any of the other moving parts.
It is going to get crowded back there with the fuel lines and intercooler lines. I am going to print a complete driver side of the part to make sure I can get all the lines past. I have a couple ways to increase the room back there if its necessary.
Next step is to mock up all those lines, including the vacuum, sensors, and wiring to make sure that everything is both tidy and has plenty of room.
Then I can start testing throttle cams to make sure I can get something that both fits and has lots of progressive action for enhanced low and mid range throttle modulation.
I am prepping the models now, and will probably sneak in the office to start printing them tomorrow.
First pictures of the new pulley from the machine shop last night. They look pretty darn good, impressed even myself with this one. Software simulation says this entire pulley assembly even weighs less than stock.
Solved a coolant leak it was on the water bridge, my homemade intake gasket may have been a mil or two too long and interfered with the seating on one side to the head, no proof other than it leaked so I trimmed it back, resealed and no leaky
Fixed the TPS signals getting to the ECU's, made a new connector and harness and rewired directly to the White and White/Red stripe main harness at the firewall.
Bought an EPROM burner.
Hooked up my Innovate Wide-Band gauge Analog output (0v=7.5 & 5v = 22.3) and adjusted the MK1 Shark tuner AFR LAW to that.
Got the Idle at a steady 14.7 in base map (sounds smooth, smells better) now when weather permits working on Cruise runs also in Base map for consistent 14.7 too.
The way I'm reading the Base Map is light load is upper left (low RPM) and the heaver load is lower left, so the MAP runs from upper to lower, left to right and down as indicated by RPM.
It actually starts and runs pretty good also made a cold MAP adjustment as it was in the 10's and should be closer to 13~ when cold and 65 deg F. then head to 14.7 when warm.
A lot of tuning lay ahead, haven't even touched the WOT enhancement map, as per the manual need to get the base map at 14.7 or close to it first.
Looks like it will be awhile before I get to use that burner and see if it works
Dave
I was thinking if I were to do something like that I might try to run the Intake pipe to both of them (across the top) that Fan shroud would need to go and pull air from both sides of the filter.
I have seen where a restricted Intake on a SC setup made less power
It has a 0 to 1.3 v knock output that can be feed into one of the Shark tuner Aux ports, I already installed the Bosch knock sensor in the V.
I will say I'm impressed w/ the packaging and construction of the unit, can't wait to see it in action, it has the ability to do individual Cyl knock control and an adjustable Boost input too
Now looking for a good place to tap into the Coil Negatives without running two separate long wires to each fenders. Was thinking I may be able to pick up the negatives at the ignition AMPS up front, any suggestion will be appreciated ?
The pulleys and revised intercooler fittings are here.
I have had a chance to check the belt tracking in the pulleys, and it looks great. I need to get a pulley on an engine and check the tensioner standoff. I am hoping to get that done this week.
With the M4 capscrews installed, the engagement with the factory damper is rock solid.
09-21-2017, 10:10 AM
Looking great Hans!
