Ken:

Maybe this will help...
https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...postcount=1107

Rob has seen the crank pulley before but doesn't remember where. Do the Andy K Eaton and Twin screw kits use the same diameter crank pulley? I'm looking into different options but haven't found an inexpensive one yet, if I find a viable option I'll post it.

Bill:

I'm a little confused....isn't that chart for the Eatons.

I think that my 424 Autorotor has a higher boost number per rotation than the Eatons. So I don't think those numbers work for me......

My 70 mm pulley is making 7 pounds of boost with intercooler.

So is there a 66 mm pulley available that you know of for my Autorotor? According to the chart that differential is size made 1 ound more on the Eatons.

Ken

Hi Ken,

I've been looking for an 8-rib pulley to replace my 6-rib. Tony and I have a 55MM that produces 10lbs. KB said they don't have any that small but they do offer the 57MM. Since I've been running 10lbs for over a year, I don't want a larger pulley :evilgrin:

FYI... I have the 420 and Tony has the 422 Autorotor and seem to produce the same boost. Not sure what the 424 will do with the same pulley?

Darien:

I see that Kenne Bell has an 8 rib pulley available in a 2.5 inch diameter. I have no idea how to do the math to see what that should yield.....but maybe I can give that a try and see where I end up.

With you guys at 10 PSI running a 55mm pulley and me at 7 PSI running a 70mm pulley, the 2.5 inch or 63 mm would be about in the middle. I think that 8 - 8.5 pounds of boost with the intercooler should be OK and if I don't like it or I only want to run 7 PSI on hot days at the track, the quick change pulley makes it a pretty simple operation. (Even with swapping out belts)

Since I don't have knock sensors on my 85 and so far have been unable to find a shark tuner to rent I don't feel comfortable making a leap of 3 more pounds of boost.

Have you had any issues running 10 PSI?

Have you run your car at any DE events.....where you're really heat soaking the engine for 20 - 35 minutes at a time?

I'm going to e-mail Kenne Belle and give them the lower pulley dimension and see what they have to say.

I hate to call DR since this isn't one of his kits.....but does anyone know if he has a selection of pulleys available.

Good information and thanks for posting.

PS: How is your new air filter install coming along.

Regards,

Ken

These guys will make any pulley size you want: http://www.aspracing.com/frame.htm

Sorry, I wasn't reading carefully. I have no information on the Autorotor pulleys.

Ken, I've had no issues with the smaller pulley. I haven't raced any, but during Shark Tuning, we ran her very hard for 30-40 minutes in very hot conditions. I noticed that I actually lost boost on those days (approx 2psi). I asked KB about the loss and they said the hot temps will cause it.

DR is very helpful even if it's not his kits, in fact, that's where we got our pulleys :thumbup:

I'm putting the intake install on hold for now, I'm still unsure about re-positioning the harness, coil and horns :icon107:

my god...you 928 people are crazy too...

Why yes we are......thanks for noticing.

Ken

3.0L 968 turbo 16 valve engine gives me lots Hp, 928 with 14psi supercharge it's going to be an animal ....

Howabout a 2.5L 944 running 10PSI max with updated fuel system? :burnout:

Thanks, I have been looking around for a place that can fit the eatons nicely.

This place has custom porting/ polishing worth 55hp for around $500 on an eaton blower:

http://www.stiegemeier.com/index.html

Help with IC rear coolant port fix
 

I'm fitting one of Andy's TS later kits to a GT. It is a 424 size and is on the manifold section that has the cast cover over the IC. I'm finding a few things I don't like at all and I have to do something to fix it. The most recent is that the IC coolant port at the rear is not done very well and I need to replace it with something better. The problems are that the outlet pipe is too short to insure a secure hose connection. He attempted to make a shoulder to help hold the hose on by bending the end of the pipe outwards with pliers or something, but it isn't anything I'd trust. The pipe also extends too far inside so it's almost resting on the IC core. Coolant won't flow well, or much at all. That coolant port has to be replaced. The problem is that I can't get it out. I took off the rubber sealing washer, and dug out some of the sealing goop, but it appears to be fastened to something inside. It's possibly welded to another plate inside the IC housing. Has anyone had one of these apart to know how it's made inside?

It looks to me like I have some choices.
1. Die grinder the tube to death and get as much out as I can. Make a flange type inlet with a hose barb end and bolt that to the IC housing. Problem is that there will be lots of aluminum chips get inside the IC housing and I doubt if I can get them all out. They'll not get into the engine, but will get into the IC cooling circuit.
2. Plug up this port and cut a hole for a new port alongside it. Bolt the flanged hose barb connector to the IC housing over the new hole. Probably will get some swarf inside, but not as much as removing the original by die grinder.

The front coolant port isn't aligned with the hole in the IC housing underneath. That tube passes through the intake chamber so will be also difficult to fix without getting swarf inside the manifold. The holes are offset enough to block about 1/3rd the area.

Has anyone else checked these coolant ports closely? Is this the only one that has the problem? Also, the base wouldn't fit evenly on the cyl head surface. It rocked around quite a bit. To get the port surfaces flat and on the same plane, I had to mill one side about 0.042" on one end and zero on the other end. The other side was just warped and crooked and 0.025" had to be removed to get it flat. Other stuff too, but mostly minor.

Some pics. Suggestions? Leaving as is isn't an option.
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=211048&stc=1
AUT_0500.jpg
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=211049&stc=1
AUT_0506.jpg
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=211050&stc=1
AUT_0501.jpg
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...d=211051&stc=1
AUT_0505.jpg

God Louie....that's ugly.

Was this a "takeoff" that had been previously installed. My fit/finish is nothing like that.

I know how particular you are..... is there a chance that you could take this to a local radiator shop and have them "weld" on an extension or slide a slightly larger tube over the top and weld it in place. Most shops are able to make crushed ends round again.....and then they could just add a 1 1/2 inch piece to it.

I had a shop change the outlet position for me on the heat exchanger that I used from a Yamaha 650 and it has held up just fine. No pressure on the system so it just needs to be nice and water tight.

Regards,

Ken