Rick Carter

I just received this, the links are to pictures of the SC install; I don't know how to post the pictures directly. It started as an Andy Keel kit; the intake manifold and lower pully from the kit were used and the rest was fabricated by the installers. The SC is a rebuilt Eaton M112. Install is complete and tuning on a Mustang dyno with the SMT-6 is tentatively scheduled for tomorrow.
Rick
85 32v modified

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All of the wire used on the stereo is DEI 02 free multi-strand wire. The power wire going to the amplifier is 8 gauge with a 60amp bus fuse by the battery. All of the speaker wire is 2 in 1 16 gauge DEI wire. The gauge pod is a custom made unit with 2 1/16" autometer sport comp gauges, the boost is mechanical the fuel pressure and water temp gauges are electrical.

As far as the motor goes...

We use the lower manifold that you provided is, we modified it slightly to accommodate our new rear inlet for the supercharger (we had to move the bypass, so we had to drill/tap a hole for it). The old bypass hole on the lower manifold has a block off plate on it that houses the manifold temp sensor (post blower). From there we have 3.5" stainless inlet tubing, the idle air bypass (idle stabilizer) is between the new inlet manifold and the blower tubing, the air box temp sensor is in the 3.5" piping on the driver side near the throttle body as well. There is a 12"x6" K&N air filter in the fender well. The front inner fender needs to be removed to gain access to the filter.
We had to relocate the power steering reservoir, which now mounts to the 3.5" inlet piping. The kit was originally designed to run 2 separate belts for the power steering and alternator. To simplify things we modified the kit to run a single 6 rib belt. We made a hub-centric spacer to bring the power steering pulley out to line up with the alternator and then machined a spacer to hold and idler pulley between the alternator and power steering pump. The alternator tensioner controls the tension on this belt, to remove it you just loosen the tensioner on the alternator. We also had to machine the lower pulley to mount to the crank pulley correctly as well as machine a spacer to bring the blower pulley out 1/8" to line up with the lower pulley correctly. Tension should be checked every 3,000 miles or so on the blower belt, the tensioner for it is off the front blower bracket (I'll show you how this works).

The electric fan that we installed uses 4 gauge wire going to a constant duty solenoid that is triggered by the thermostat that you provided. We made custom stainless steel brackets that mount the fan to the radiator. The fan is a Volvo 15" fan. It draws 80 amps on startup and about 30 amps continuous.

The Throttle brackets and cables that we made where all custom (obviously completely different from the kit) We retain the stock-style mounts for both cables, however there location is changed. We eliminated the second throttle lever on the throttle body and modified the first lever to accept the stock style ball and cup attachments for the cruise control and the throttle cable. There is also a mount at the bottom of the lever that holds the throttle return spring. The throttle bracket is made from 1/8" steel, it mounts to a 1/2" aluminum plate that is welded to the driver side fuel rail. It also has a 16 gauge steel strap that attaches to the top middle drivers side valve cover bolt to give the throttle bracket added support (believe it or not because of the return spring there is a lot of load on that bracket).

The fuel system under the engine bay retains nothing stock. I machined a steel block to accept the stock flair-style fitting coming off of the stock fuel feed line from the gas tank (I did not want to cut this line). The feed line goes to a -6 push-lock line (pushlock is rated to 250psi) into a magna-fuel -6x-6x-6 Y-block. The block Y's to both of the fuel rails with -6 line. The fuel rails are custom built from http://www.behindbarsracecars.com/. They are 17" long, the end ports are 3/8" NPT fittings and the injectors are 4.82" center to center and the injector holes are .530". The injecotr holes are centered in the 17" rail. We had to weld mounting taps to the fuel rails as well as the bracket we made for the throttle cable. The rails go into a Aeromotive A1000 2 port fuel regulator (30-100psi unit) then out to the stock return line. None of the stock hardlines had to be modified in any way, we adapted everything to them. This regulator raises on a 1:1 ratio with boost (as most do).

The catch cans we made are 48mm by about 8". They use K&N filters with a 48mm opening and 2 5/8" lines from each valve cover going to the catch cans. We (obviously) added 2 breather ports to the driver side valve cover. We disabled the stock regulated style venting system for the charcoal canister and made it function as a constant venting system (from the factory it is regulated for emissions).

We used NKG BPR6ES which are one step colder than stock gapped to .028".


I'm sure that I am forgetting something, If I remember I will send you another email. I will send you interior pictures shortly, I have to finish installing the new boost gauge that just came in.

Thanks!
Rob LaSota

Gretch

Cool...............

Jim_H

We need a standing ovation smiley. Nicely done.

heinrich

Huge amount of fab you did there Rick/Rob and it looks awesome so .... how does she pull/
Heinrich

Tony

very cool RICK! very!

Neat idea to run the ALT and PS pulleys off one belt.!

Fuel system...nicely done, quite a bit of work there as well.

Is it intercooled, doesnt appear to be??

hows the idle with the 30lbs injectors?

cant wait to see what it does and the areas which SMT6 will benefit.

Im waiting on an airfilter for Dariens car. It should be on the road next week.

Rick Carter

It idles at 14.3-14.5:1 per wide band with the 30 pound injectors and 36? pounds of fuel pressure. It's not intercooled. Some other things have come up and it won't be tuned for at least a week. Driving it last night was fun, it is rich in the middle of the rpm band and lean at 5000+. I'll know more in a week or two. I didn't want to post until everything was done as delays often occur but at least the install is done and a few pictures were taken.
Rick
85 32v modified

Tony

..dont they all!

not bad for the much touted "Supermodel kit weekend install" !




Hey, take your time...do it once and do it right. Nutt'n wrong with that at all
easier said than done i know.

BC

Nice Magnaflow Y-junction. Thats exactly what I want to do.

How did those Fuel rails work out?

Rick Carter

Brendan,
The rails were easy, I think the cost was $150.00 instead of $127.00; things oten cost more and take longer.
Rick

BC

I'd love to get the exact same thing from them. Thats the -10 rail right?

BrianG

Some "Great Ideas" there. I'll be attempting the single-belt drive for the alternator/pwr-steering part of my own installation as well. I was considering the aftermarket fuel-logs for my Auto-rotor/Keel system and this cinches it!

Great work, and thanks for sharing!!

Rick Carter

This is the link and description of the rails.
http://www.behindbarsracecars.com/catalog.html
Fuel Rail By The Foot BBRC 591
Extrunded aluminum natural finish
.580 bore. $13.99 per foot
Rick

DR

Rick,

Welcome to the "Dark Side" :-) Please give us your driving impressions when you get her all tuned in. I KNOW you are going be smiling for a LONG TIME!!!

>Some "Great Ideas" there

Yep, one quick one I noticed is the throttle body is turned around backwards as it is easier and more sturdy to mount it that way(and with less "adapters" etc). I had one version of our system done like that, but the supply of used 85-86 TBs is pretty dry so we went another direction to ensure availabilty.

Daryl

Rick,
Welcome to the SC world. You will never have to see tail lights again! Well, almost never.
I think you were questioning the fuel pressure at idle. My pressure is 29 to 30 lbs at idle.

Rick Carter

Daryl,
The ? after the fuel pressure meant that was IIRC.

Dave,
If I'd known your kit was coming I'd have waited.

Rick