Where can I get a 27mm & 24 mm Crowfoot wrench?
Hi.
I want to change my oil thermostat. I read on the list I need a 27mm & 24 mm Crowfoot wrench to do it up. I cannot find one in town or online (Harbor Freight, Snap-On). Hans and Frans are having another chuckle at my expense. Ha Ha. Ho ho. They are funny guys, I am thinking. I feel the mirth. Hee Hee. |
cut the end off a couple of open end wrenches and weld one up.
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ummmm... you haven't seen my welding, have you? ;)
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Originally Posted by Thaddeus
ummmm... you haven't seen my welding, have you? ;)
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You can buy a whole set here:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...?v=glance&s=hi or here: http://shop.store.yahoo.com/brandspl...6-v8-7917.html but it ain't cheap. Don't know anyplace to get them invidually. If you wanted to save a few bucks you could get a smaller set (a more usefull thing to own) that only goes to 24mm, like http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/asthan02.html (scroll down) and then try to pick a single 1-1/16" crowfoot wrench (same size as a 27mm), or just fake it. :) |
We're fabricating all kinds of "Fred Flintstone" tools on a daily basis where i work, hell we probably have 30-40 cobbed together crows feet of various sizes laying around. i guess that doesn't help though.
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sears....
Edit I just remebered You need to buy the SAE Which are 1 1/16 & 1 ???? Double check this !!! |
I bought a set at Toolking.com. Never heard of them before... guess me and my credit card can be the guinea pig for the board....
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I used a short open end and got it off without much trouble.
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Always tighten the thermostat housing cap with a torque wrench and socket to the specifications in the WSM. Otherwise you’ll have a oil leak at the crush ring seal. Install the oil pressure switch afterwards.
When removing the oil pressure switch, the oil thermostat housing cap usually loosens with the pressure switch. You can counter hold the thermostat cap while tightening/loosening the pressure switch, with two open-ended wrenches, but a problem exists… the thermostat housing hex has a radius edge, making it difficult to find two open ended wrenches that fit together between the space allowed by the pressure switch. As a solution, I used an angle grinder to grind chamfered edges on the inside of the larger open-ended wrench. This allows both wrenches to fit in the space. Works like a charm with the alternator lowered from its mounting. If your removing the oil cooler hoses, the hose adapters at the engine block will likely unscrew unless you counter hold them while loosening the hoses. After removing the oil filter, I used this HFT metric angle wrench set: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=5697 borland 90’ S4, Slate Metallic |
You're scaring me, Borland. Even looking at the service manual, I am not sure where this thing is... I just plan on removing the oil filter and looking around until I see something that looks like the new parts I've got in the box... you're making this sound like a scary proposition.
Anybody got a pic of this thing coming out? |
You do need thin faced wrenches as Borland said. If you also lower the alternator, it is quite easy to swing normal length wrenches to do the job - which is more pleasant than fishing a crows foot up there..
For the crows foot wrenches, I hacked a couple out of 1/4" plate and squared off a drilled hole to 3/8" for the drive connection - they've been handy as well on other 928 issues ( like rad fittings). |
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