New dampers & adjusted ride height - the magic is back
#1
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New dampers & adjusted ride height - the magic is back
Finally got round to fitting the new dampers (Boge). Adjusted the ride height to 175mm front and back. Fronts were 135 and backs were 140.
What can I say - the ride is fantastic, the handling has improved dramatically and the car is an absolute pleasure to drive again. Corners like its on rails.
Fronts took around 2 hours each and the back 1 hour each.
Peter
1988 928S4
1998 Boxster
2000 Daimler V8
What can I say - the ride is fantastic, the handling has improved dramatically and the car is an absolute pleasure to drive again. Corners like its on rails.
Fronts took around 2 hours each and the back 1 hour each.
Peter
1988 928S4
1998 Boxster
2000 Daimler V8
#2
Drifting
hi peter, i had my struts swapped out of the 88 at the weekend and re-installed the old units (50k miles) from my other car. first thing i noticed is that at 50k the shocks are definitely not like new and the second thing is how much more the S4 must weigh compared to the 86 as the shocks dont control the ride quite as much as on the earlier car. im also using the eibach springs which are a really good mod. i was lucky with the install as i had professional help but even then and simply swapping out the struts it took all morning till lunch time.
#5
I took it a step further.. replaced the entire S suspension with the S4, added the Bilstein/Eibach package.. but couldn't stop there.. replaced the S spindles with S4's, rotors, calipers, etc...
Does that make my S an S2?
Chuck
83 Kiln Red 928S
Does that make my S an S2?
Chuck
83 Kiln Red 928S
#6
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S2 = UK marketing name for '84-86 310 hp ROW S. Only '86 model year S2's had S4 suspension and brakes. All '86 ROW S had them regardless of engine type, 16 or 32 valve.
#7
Drifting
pfunde,
my best advice is to try and catch a ride with someone who has uprated springs and dampers to gauge how far you wish to go. if you are looking for more go-kart like handling then dont be afraid of putting on some stiff springs and dampers. loads of people here have modified there cars suspension and will usefully contribute if you need advice, its a really good thing to do to the 928.
one other thing i noticed is how much of a difference poly bushings make. i had previously atributed the sharper turn in and handling on my 86 to the springs and droplinks but now ive added them to the 88 and its still not as crisp as the 86 which has poly bushes all round.
my best advice is to try and catch a ride with someone who has uprated springs and dampers to gauge how far you wish to go. if you are looking for more go-kart like handling then dont be afraid of putting on some stiff springs and dampers. loads of people here have modified there cars suspension and will usefully contribute if you need advice, its a really good thing to do to the 928.
one other thing i noticed is how much of a difference poly bushings make. i had previously atributed the sharper turn in and handling on my 86 to the springs and droplinks but now ive added them to the 88 and its still not as crisp as the 86 which has poly bushes all round.
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#8
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Peter and Nick, I have wanted to replace the original Boge struts on my 88 S4, but around here (Wash DC suburbs) mechanics are asking about $2.5 - $3k to do the work on all four. The Rennlisters seem to think it's doable in a single day with the right tools, knowledge (I have neither). Where you really able to replace the dampers in "2 hours each for the fronts; 1 hour each for the rears" ???
#9
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On S4 it is a lot easier than on the older cars.
Rear is the same on older and newer, but front is a lot easier.
The reason is that you can take the entire front legs out without removing the upper a-arms which is hard work.
(spring and shock still assembled)
There are three nuts in the engine bay and one large bolt on the bottom of the damper.
If you losen the four bolts holding the lower suspension arm you can swing it out of the way.
Then just lower the whole damper/spring down trough the upper a-arm.
(might require some slight twisting)
Rear is almost the same, three nuts on the top.
The lower bolt is quite long and can be a bit tight to tap out sometimes.
It is a lot easier if you remove the brakedisc and shield first.
Then you can tap it out towards the rear, soak it with WD40 or similar the night before.
Cheers/Peter
Rear is the same on older and newer, but front is a lot easier.
The reason is that you can take the entire front legs out without removing the upper a-arms which is hard work.
(spring and shock still assembled)
There are three nuts in the engine bay and one large bolt on the bottom of the damper.
If you losen the four bolts holding the lower suspension arm you can swing it out of the way.
Then just lower the whole damper/spring down trough the upper a-arm.
(might require some slight twisting)
Rear is almost the same, three nuts on the top.
The lower bolt is quite long and can be a bit tight to tap out sometimes.
It is a lot easier if you remove the brakedisc and shield first.
Then you can tap it out towards the rear, soak it with WD40 or similar the night before.
Cheers/Peter
#10
Drifting
steve, ouch! that price hurts.. its definitely easier with a lift, we were able to swap all four out in a morning. however we were not rebuilding each strut, just swapping the entire units for complete ones from another car. other reason your price might be high is because they are factoring in ride height ajustment and alignement, but most probably just cause its a porsche..
#11
Rennlist Member
In Chicago, at Porsche dealership, I was quoted $4K for four shocks, ride height adjustment and alignment. I'm in the process of DIY for about $400 in parts. On an 84 the fronts are a bear, they took me 3 hours each including strut disassembly and reassembly. I hope the rears are a little easier.
Good luck,
Dave McK
Good luck,
Dave McK
#13
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I drove the car for two weeks to have it settle and do the ride hight adjustments properly.
(did some initial toe adjustment to avoid destroing the tires)
It is now 170mm all around at the measuring points.
(Bilstein/Eibach shocks/springs, still within factory ride hight specs.)
And yes Randy, final touch was a four wheel alignment by a shop who did not have to raise the car during alignment.
I stayed and watched the whole procedure to be sure .
This was done to my -81S, my 90GT is still being ride hight adjusted but will get the same alignment when done.
It has brand new factory struts, GT springs with new Boge gas shocks.
Cheers/Peter
(did some initial toe adjustment to avoid destroing the tires)
It is now 170mm all around at the measuring points.
(Bilstein/Eibach shocks/springs, still within factory ride hight specs.)
And yes Randy, final touch was a four wheel alignment by a shop who did not have to raise the car during alignment.
I stayed and watched the whole procedure to be sure .
This was done to my -81S, my 90GT is still being ride hight adjusted but will get the same alignment when done.
It has brand new factory struts, GT springs with new Boge gas shocks.
Cheers/Peter
#14
928 Barrister
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Peter said: "If you losen the four bolts holding the lower suspension arm you can swing it out of the way.
Then just lower the whole damper/spring down trough the upper a-arm.
(might require some slight twisting)"
I found that with the upper control arm raised to a position parallel with the ground, the spring/shock assembly may be "unscrewed" through it. Mine would not simply slide through. Installation is the reverse. Just screw it into and through the upper control arm.
The most time consuming was disassembly of the damper/spring assembly and then reassembly, because I used manually operated spring compressors(two per unit) and wrenched on them by hand. Scary thing to do. If you have air tools, that whole process would be abbreviated considerably.
Then just lower the whole damper/spring down trough the upper a-arm.
(might require some slight twisting)"
I found that with the upper control arm raised to a position parallel with the ground, the spring/shock assembly may be "unscrewed" through it. Mine would not simply slide through. Installation is the reverse. Just screw it into and through the upper control arm.
The most time consuming was disassembly of the damper/spring assembly and then reassembly, because I used manually operated spring compressors(two per unit) and wrenched on them by hand. Scary thing to do. If you have air tools, that whole process would be abbreviated considerably.
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Apologies for not replying sooner - I took a long weekend off.
I am not a mechanic (read Software Project Manager) - The fronts were the easiest - remove 3 top nuts, brake assembly, brake rotor, and the lower mounting bolt. The longest job was compressing the spring to remove and replace the dampers. 2 hours
The rears - remove the 3 top nuts, brake assembly, rotor, and drive out the axle holding pin. Point to note - beware the handbrake assembly inside the rotors. 1st side 1 hour - the other about 30 minutes.
On the point of using a harder spring - beware.
I have a 97 Boxster with factory lowered suspension, 17 in wheels, zero profile tyres - the car is difficult (read uncomfortable) to drive for anything over 100 - 150 km at a time. Great fun but not for long distances.
Regards
Peter
88 S4
97 Boxster
2000 Daimler V8
I am not a mechanic (read Software Project Manager) - The fronts were the easiest - remove 3 top nuts, brake assembly, brake rotor, and the lower mounting bolt. The longest job was compressing the spring to remove and replace the dampers. 2 hours
The rears - remove the 3 top nuts, brake assembly, rotor, and drive out the axle holding pin. Point to note - beware the handbrake assembly inside the rotors. 1st side 1 hour - the other about 30 minutes.
On the point of using a harder spring - beware.
I have a 97 Boxster with factory lowered suspension, 17 in wheels, zero profile tyres - the car is difficult (read uncomfortable) to drive for anything over 100 - 150 km at a time. Great fun but not for long distances.
Regards
Peter
88 S4
97 Boxster
2000 Daimler V8