Carl Fausett is a GENIUS!! Replaced clutch master in 30 minutes! (Pics added)
01-03-2006, 02:57 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by m21sniper
If you're cutting into braces, the frame, etc, etc...then yes, VERY bad.
However, if you're simply cutting into an unstressed area(such as the inner fenderwell as above or the wheelwheel, etc.), and then covering that hole with a bolted on covering plate, it will cause no harm.
However, if you're simply cutting into an unstressed area(such as the inner fenderwell as above or the wheelwheel, etc.), and then covering that hole with a bolted on covering plate, it will cause no harm.
Perhaps not a stressed area until impact. I would be concerned with affecting crumple zone design and such...
01-03-2006, 05:46 PM
#34
That whole area is pretty difficult to get to. I see no problem with the hole if it was protected afterward.
01-03-2006, 05:51 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by BrendanC
That whole area is pretty difficult to get to. I see no problem with the hole if it was protected afterward.
01-03-2006, 05:54 PM
#36
Originally Posted by Gretch
That's what she said..... Woo!
You're not getting out much this winter, huh G? Bit cold there in the mountains? JK
01-03-2006, 05:57 PM
#37
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If you have to do this I would suggest:
make the hole as small as possible;
make the hole round to avoid stress concentrations;
use a cover of same material, form-fitted of the same thickness and same strength; and
if you can't weld the cover, bolt it on with enough fasteners to restore structural integrity.
Pretty obvious stuff, I know . . .
make the hole as small as possible;
make the hole round to avoid stress concentrations;
use a cover of same material, form-fitted of the same thickness and same strength; and
if you can't weld the cover, bolt it on with enough fasteners to restore structural integrity.
Pretty obvious stuff, I know . . .
01-03-2006, 06:03 PM
#38
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marc@DEVEK wrote:
"... Sure is one way to skin the cat, and is a neat time saving idea, but there are other ways of performing the same service differnetly and saves time also, but this is not our thread." Marc
C'mon Marc, if there's a good way, Write It Up. Please. Is this it?
http://www.devek.net/index.php?page=nfo_tech_tips
Early 928 transmissions often experience 1st/2nd synchro degradation and wear out after clutch action becomes partial, and clutchless shifts become the norm. The pain lodges in the transmission, but the fault is in the clutch master cylinder, which is hidden behind the brake vacuum booster. Cars over 100,000 miles have normally had clutch and slave cylinder changes, but no master cylinder changes because of the difficulty of accessing the master cylinder. The trick is pulling the vacuum booster, made easy (after brake master cylinder removal) by fully compressing the brake booster spring and trapping the plunger on the engine bay side, removing the four nuts and disconnecting brake pedal linkage in the driver's footwell. Then the clutch master cylinder is easy to change; don't forget to replace the fluid supply line between the cylinder and the brake reservoir, for it will be another 7-8 years before anyone removes the vacuum booster again!
"... Sure is one way to skin the cat, and is a neat time saving idea, but there are other ways of performing the same service differnetly and saves time also, but this is not our thread." Marc
C'mon Marc, if there's a good way, Write It Up. Please. Is this it?
http://www.devek.net/index.php?page=nfo_tech_tips
Early 928 transmissions often experience 1st/2nd synchro degradation and wear out after clutch action becomes partial, and clutchless shifts become the norm. The pain lodges in the transmission, but the fault is in the clutch master cylinder, which is hidden behind the brake vacuum booster. Cars over 100,000 miles have normally had clutch and slave cylinder changes, but no master cylinder changes because of the difficulty of accessing the master cylinder. The trick is pulling the vacuum booster, made easy (after brake master cylinder removal) by fully compressing the brake booster spring and trapping the plunger on the engine bay side, removing the four nuts and disconnecting brake pedal linkage in the driver's footwell. Then the clutch master cylinder is easy to change; don't forget to replace the fluid supply line between the cylinder and the brake reservoir, for it will be another 7-8 years before anyone removes the vacuum booster again!
01-03-2006, 06:14 PM
#39
I don't think Marc really participates here anymore. And if he did have a good way of doing something, he sure as **** wouldn't give to you or me for free, no matter what it was. If he does participate here, that would mean he had time to check his freaking email once in a blue moon. I'm not seeing that chain of events.
01-03-2006, 06:15 PM
#40
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Originally Posted by BrendanC
Nice. You're not getting out much this winter, huh G? Bit cold there in the mountains? JK
You're not getting out much this winter, huh G? Bit cold there in the mountains? JKI have done more work on G in the last three weekends than I have in a year.....and there are still many hours to go.....Think I will take a day off an go git drunk.......THAT will make things better.....but first I gotta get that blue hose installed.
Do I wanna know what "JK" means?????
01-03-2006, 07:37 PM
#41
I spent 4 years in Green Bay, WI, with enough cheese and beer to make most women men. So with not much to do, and not much to see, well, you know how that goes. Suffice to say, the car I had with me there WAS my toy (Chevy Van). To this day I think body-on-frame cars are only built to be "jumped" and generally used as a sort of "lets see what I can do with this," sort of tool.
JK is Just Kidding. I don't want to **** people off from the Live Free or Die state. After all, I am now only in the "Don't **** me off or I will throw my cell phone at you" state.
JK is Just Kidding. I don't want to **** people off from the Live Free or Die state. After all, I am now only in the "Don't **** me off or I will throw my cell phone at you" state.
01-03-2006, 08:35 PM
#42
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Great idea, but I share the concern over structural integrity. Inner fender wells are close to suspension components and who knows what can happen over time if you go over bumps at speed? But if everyone agrees it's no big deal, I'm encouraged to cut off a hole for access to the AT fill bottle!
01-03-2006, 10:23 PM
#43
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Wow. I just saw this post.
Glad it worked for you. Not for everybody - certainly not for a restoration-minded 928 owner, or a polisher, or a preservationist. But, for a 928 owner who has to or chooses to do their own repairs.... if the 928 is a "driver" and not a Concours Collectable.... why not?
I examined the panel carefully before I did my first one - the 3" or 4" access hole is in the center of a un-stressed section of sheet metal - really just keeps mud off the engine in that spot - and not a part of the uni-body or any structural framework.
Shape an aluminum cover with tin snips, coat with RTV silicone, and rivit into place and you have a nice, water-tight removable access panel whenever the clutch master or brake biassing valve needs attention.
Glad it worked for you. Not for everybody - certainly not for a restoration-minded 928 owner, or a polisher, or a preservationist. But, for a 928 owner who has to or chooses to do their own repairs.... if the 928 is a "driver" and not a Concours Collectable.... why not?
I examined the panel carefully before I did my first one - the 3" or 4" access hole is in the center of a un-stressed section of sheet metal - really just keeps mud off the engine in that spot - and not a part of the uni-body or any structural framework.
Shape an aluminum cover with tin snips, coat with RTV silicone, and rivit into place and you have a nice, water-tight removable access panel whenever the clutch master or brake biassing valve needs attention.
01-03-2006, 10:28 PM
#44
Thats just below where Tony cut his hole for the cold air intake on his SC.