Master Thread - Weight Savings Tips
#106
Originally Posted by Carl Fausett
Duct tape OK? OK, OK - electrical tape? JB Weld? Paper clips and chewing gum?
I'll be using extra-wide foot aluminum rivets spaced every 1.5 inches. The wide foot should not crack the polycarbonate as they are clamped down. I have used these with success on the NACA ducts, fender lfares, and louvers.
I'll be using extra-wide foot aluminum rivets spaced every 1.5 inches. The wide foot should not crack the polycarbonate as they are clamped down. I have used these with success on the NACA ducts, fender lfares, and louvers.
#107
Developer
Thread Starter
Not sure what a "squeeze clip" is. Got a picture? I do not hink I need to to take them in-and-out, but I'd like to see what your describing. Sounds interesting.
#108
Originally Posted by Carl Fausett
Aluminum Flywheel - you can save 6 pounds of rotating mass by replacing the flywheel. This not only saves 6 pounds of weight, but increases the torque available because of the reduction of the rotating mass. The engine will be more responsive in acceleration and deceleration because you have reduced the moment of polar inertia.
#110
Run it "Nascar wreck" style Front Fenders and Hood can be ditched, I think the aero will be a little changed, but man that's a lot of weight!
Carl, if those side windows weigh 6 lb each, what does the rear hatch glass weigh?
Carl, if those side windows weigh 6 lb each, what does the rear hatch glass weigh?
#111
Developer
Thread Starter
Is the aluminum flywheel only for manual transmission cars? My 928 is the first only my 2nd automatic ever.
Carl, if those side windows weigh 6 lb each, what does the rear hatch glass weigh?
#112
Originally Posted by Carl Fausett
Yes, It is for automatics only. That aluminum flywheel did not accept the timing gear of the later cars, we are making a new one that will accept the press-on timing gear. We have run that aluminum flywheel for 3 race seasons + street driving and it has not had a problem... even with our race clutch in it.
Carl, your answer confused me. I asked if it's for manual only, and you said yes, it's for auto only.
I'll have that information for you pretty soon. We are cutting and shaping making the rear hatch plexi now, then I will weigh it.
Carl, your answer confused me. I asked if it's for manual only, and you said yes, it's for auto only.
I'll have that information for you pretty soon. We are cutting and shaping making the rear hatch plexi now, then I will weigh it.
#113
Developer
Thread Starter
In my opinion, no. Even the abrasion-resistant plexi is subject to scratches and fogging that you just do not get with tempered glass. I wouldn't change it unless a) rules require it, or b) you ar egetting real serious about weight loss on your 928.
#116
Chucks - I went to a plastics place in San Diego and bought a 4x4 sheet of polycarbonate, and cut it to size. There are already holes in the hatch frame that you can match up to the polyc sheet and I would want to seal it a bit.
But you bring up a point I was worried about - the metal frame through the middle needed for strength - would that go on the outside or the inside?
But you bring up a point I was worried about - the metal frame through the middle needed for strength - would that go on the outside or the inside?
#117
Here are some pix of our "Track Car" project! We are currently just below 2000 lbs. But, will be putting back a few hundred pounds by the time we are finished! I will let you know the final weight when it is done.
#118
Developer
Thread Starter
Zaner - having BTDT I can certainly attest to how much work that is to remove all the undercoating and paint. I think you have done a better job at it than we did.
CDBTX - I have no plans for selling the replacement rear window in polycarbonate as a kit. You'll have to make your own. It isn't hard. Check the specs of your sanctioning body to make sure you do not install too thin a piece and fail to pass tech inspection.
My sanctioning body specifies "not less than 3.5mm in thickness"
Here are photos of the support struts I made for the hatch window.
CDBTX - I have no plans for selling the replacement rear window in polycarbonate as a kit. You'll have to make your own. It isn't hard. Check the specs of your sanctioning body to make sure you do not install too thin a piece and fail to pass tech inspection.
My sanctioning body specifies "not less than 3.5mm in thickness"
Here are photos of the support struts I made for the hatch window.
#119
How did you remove that outside undercoating?
#120
Dean Krenz's blue car weighed in at the last SCCA tech inspection under 2700lbs (WITH DRIVER)... I'm going over it with a fine tooth comb to try and figure out where he removed all the weight...
Thanks for the info - Carl, do you sell the rear wing on your car. That doesn't look like the one on the website?
Thanks,
Chuck
83 Kiln Red 928S
Thanks for the info - Carl, do you sell the rear wing on your car. That doesn't look like the one on the website?
Thanks,
Chuck
83 Kiln Red 928S