twin disc clutch adjustment (pics)
 

hi,

I'm attempting to adjust the clutch according to the Devek method. I.e. placing the intermediate plate equidistant from the disks.

In my case the plate was all the way to the front.

I used a cargo strap to the rear cross member to open the clutch. How can I be sure I open the clutch exactly as much as the slave does?

When attempting to adjust the clutch I just moved the intermediate plate back, by prying it back using a flat screwdriver.

So to the questions..

-is it really that simple? What makes it stay in the correct position, when it can be moved back that easy?

-the plates rattle and are noisy when rotating the axle, is this OK?

-the lever is a very loose fit around the axle, I recall reading this should be taken up by just greasing (what type of grease?), but that it is possible to fit a bushing. What does that involve? The lever is actually reallly loose in any direction....


here are some pictures to go with my questions...
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MM

It's not super critical to open it exact same amount during adjustment. If you want you can install bottom cover and slave and measure lever movement range to see how far to pull.

AFAIK correct procedure is to adjust three about 2cm x 1 cm steel pieces that limit intermediate plate movement. They are prevented from moving by stack of three small washers around stud that keeps steel piece in place. When washers are worn adjustment piece can move too freely and it will not hold intermediate plate in correct position.

Whole purpose of adjustment is to set intermediate plates movement rance with steel piece so that both clutch plates will engage fully but also intermediate plate will have free space to move enough backwards for both plates to disengage properly. Pressure plate will force adjustment to the front but when parts wear out intermediate plate will not move back enough to free disk I. This leaves disk I draging wearing out gearbox syncros.

What kind of noise, grinding etc?

What exactly is loose, between lever and release bearing? It should thighten up when lever is pushed back by slave cylinder. WSM ask for MOS2 grease between these two.

If noise comes from release bearing being loose to pressure plate their mating surfaces should be lightly coated with Optimoly HT. It's hard to find stuff but at least 928 Specialists should have it.

I am not sure if this was ever resolved, but I am having a similar issue it appears. My clutch operates fine but I have a intermittent rattle that happens with the clutch in or out. It almost sounds like there is a washer or nut in the lower bellhousing that gets tossed around when I press in or release the clutch. It makes noise for a few seconds then stops.
With the bellhousing off, I notice that as described above, there is a little free play in the arm and it is loose around the shaft. The bushing at the top is new. This did not happen before I removed the engine. During assembly, I had the clutch discs resurfaced and replaced the top bushing.
Not sure if Gruffalo is still here, but if so, how did you resolve it?

Greeting all. I did the double disk clutch "retro-upgrade" as I call it many, many moons ago, but at the time I did a WORD write up of it. If anyone is interested, or feels it might help them with their issues questions let me know and I can e-mail it.

Forgot to say that I've never had any issues after the install.

Doug,

It sounds to me like your release arm bushing is missing, gone, broken etc.