Airflite40

I have to put aside my no idle issue to deal with another. I noticed that there was a slow fuel leak at the front of my WUR. The right (driver's, fuel supply?) side, which is the side where the bolt goes through the circular part. I originally had one washer between the bolt and one washer between the line and the WUR. When I found the leak, I tightened the bolt and tried agian. Still leaking. I tightened it again, and the damn thing broke in half!! I quickly fabbed a new bolt from an M8x1.0 bolt I picked up from a metric supply store by drilling a hole in the center of the bolt shaft and three small holes through the bolt shaft near the top. I looked in PET and it is mixed up, since it shows a different WUR for 1980, it shows the one that mounts sideways as opposed to the one that mounts straight on. However, it shows the one I got in the 1983 section, but it doesn't show a washer between the WUR and the fuel line, only one between the bolt head and fuel line. I tried that configuration and it still leaks, and I tightened it as far as I could without breaking it. Now there is a slow flowing leak from under the fuel line and two squirting leaks from between the bolt head and fuel line. I ordered the correct bolts and new washers, so hopefully this should fix it. If not, can I just JB Weld it shut? I don't want to since the WUR is brand new. What do you guys think? If anyone needs pics to visualize what I am saying I can post some. Thanks, Borys.

GlenL

Use the two sealing rings. Not exactly washers. They're thin and pliable to get a seal. Every banjo bolt I've seen on the car uses two sealing rings.

Keep the JB weld away from the WUR. Don't know what it cost you, but they're hundreds of bucks new. Get new, correct parts and it'l be fine.

Airflite40

So, the bolt is called a banjo bolt? I ordered the following sealing rings based on PET 6, 83 yr, mg 1, sg 7, illus. 107-10, part 11 # 900 123 115 30. Says: sealing ring A8x11,5. Hopefully this will work. Thanks Glen for all your input.

Barry Johnson

On my buddy's 78 euro, we had the same problem, except at one point it got very loose and pissed gas at me while I was observing the WUR during starting. We had to use another copper ring and it was good, but not without tightening it to the point of it almost breaking, like the other WUR bolt did... It would be nice if there were replacement bolts on those that are a bit stronger, but having 3 holes in the head kind of takes away integrity...

SharkSkin

The sealing rings get old and brittle. You have to either anneal them or replace them.