Bill51sdr

This is exactly what I was told by the shop that successfully repaired my radiator. I'd be curious to hear about this too...

heinrich

I wouldn't touch it with a ten-foot pole.

Marc Schwager

"The shop is telling me if the tabs break, the radiator is toast. Maybe I misunderstood."

There are lots of tabs, I would think (hope) that if one or two break you would still be OK. Anyone know differently?

I have to decide whether to do the side tank or pop for the aluminum radiator pretty soon now. It's a slow leak, but growing.

Marc Schwager

Bill,

I just got out my favorite tool (a visa card) and picked up an aluminum radiator at Devek. I'm going for a test drive in a minute, but all looks ok so far, though closing the hood is tight. It must be a few mm larger than the old one.

In any case, if your core gets damaged in the first attempt you are welcome to mine as I have no further use for it. It's from a 5 speed with no oil cooler, but that shouldn't matter with the core.

Bill Ball

Marc:

Thanks. However, I believe there are some other structural differences between the 86- and the 87+ radiators. I will be having a new sidetank installed this weekend.

Ispeed

From what I know you don't need an end tank, just a new gasket if that's where it's leaking from. You do need the right crimping tool that's specific to the German radiators.

Bill Ball

Marc may have a gasket leak. My sidetank was cracked right above the water inlet on the passenger side. This is quite common, but the crack was invisible until they pressure tested it. I suspected the gasket. I would just see wetness around the area after a hard drive and no active squirt like the pressure test revealed.

Marc Schwager

My tank was cracked around the passengers side pipe. I bet it was the original tank so 26 years of use finally got to it.

docmirror

I've got the tank seals, and can't determine if my tank is cracked. I'll have the rad out this weekend, and off to the shop for testing and repair if only the seal. Jim recommended that the tank be replaced as a proactive measure, as it's a one-time shot on the tank tabs. Probably a good idea, I'll have a look at what I've got once it's apart at the shop. I may be doing the tank too, just to avoid trouble later.

Doc

Bill Ball

Yes, heed Jim's advice - do the tank and not just the seal.

I had the shop do the tank replacement. They rodded the radiator and pressure tested. Came out perfect - tabs look untouched. They had the right crimper and compression jig. Anybody in the SF East Bay area, Mel and Son's Radiator and Muffler Shop on Monument Blvd in Concord knows how to work on Behr radiators. They do have trouble sourcing the tank part, so I provided that. Charge was $90 for the labor. Done in a day.

SharkSkin

Nice! And you saved a few more clams toward the intercooler...