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-   -   Side Mouldings and Ball Joints (https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/205026-side-mouldings-and-ball-joints.html)

Airflite40 05-20-2005 03:16 AM

Side Mouldings and Ball Joints
 
1. I know that the side mouldings leave large holes in the body panels, but how hard is it to fill those holes? Is it possible for a DIY'er like me to fill and sand them? I want to pull them off before I paint.

2. When removing the nut on top of the ball joints, how did you guys stop the wheel from turning while applying torque? I have tried to remove the nut, but I have a hard time putting force on the wrench with the wheel swinging.

Thanks, Borys.

DoubleNutz 05-20-2005 04:03 AM


Originally Posted by Airflite40
1. I know that the side mouldings leave large holes in the body panels, but how hard is it to fill those holes? Is it possible for a DIY'er like me to fill and sand them? I want to pull them off before I paint.

Thanks, Borys.

This is not a DIY job for the amateur :nono: (not understanding or implying that you are). You must have better than average skills welding skills to weld the thin aluminum in the fenders and be certain you properly seal the interior of the weld becuase aluminum welds are usually porous, so if you do not seal this properly you will get bubbling under the paint when moisture gets into the weld.

AO 05-20-2005 10:04 AM

For the Ball joint, I believe I used a chunk of 2x2 and levered the upper arm down... or maybe I used a jack from underneath... either way, you need to get some tension on that sucker ortherwise it'll just spin as you're finding out. Once you get enough tension on it, you can tighten to spec without issue.

AO 05-20-2005 10:09 AM

1 Attachment(s)
It was a 2x2. See the manual:

1981 Shark 05-20-2005 04:57 PM


Originally Posted by DoubleNutz
You must have better than average skills welding skills to weld the thin aluminum in the fenders and be certain you properly seal the interior of the weld becuase aluminum welds are usually porous, so if you do not seal this properly you will get bubbling under the paint when moisture gets into the weld.

My PO checked into having the rub strips removed when painted, but the body guy refused to do it and based on the paint job, this guy new what he was doing. Also, based on others' comments regarding removal, I'd think twice. However, this is just my $.02. Good luck!

David

Daniel Dudley 05-20-2005 08:16 PM

Grinding down, dimpling in the hole and filling with bondo glass or something equivalent would be the old school customizer's trick. it works too, with no welding and no distortion. Not elegant, but it has been done a lot. YMMV

Airflite40 05-20-2005 09:00 PM

Hmmm.... can you elaborate on this grinding down and dimpling, please? Thanks everyone for their help.

DoubleNutz 05-21-2005 04:43 AM


Originally Posted by Daniel Dudley
Grinding down, dimpling in the hole and filling with bondo glass or something equivalent would be the old school customizer's trick. it works too, with no welding and no distortion. Not elegant, but it has been done a lot. YMMV

Allow me lend my PERSONAL experience to you... this needs to be done properly and the proper way is welded. If you follow the bondo advice :nono: above in the thin aluminum of the fenders, you can count on that little bondo'd hole popping out after a few fender flexes a good moisture soaking inside the fender well.

Go ahead and bondo it...you will be doing all over again in a month :grr: :banghead: :crying: - trust me!

Airflite40 05-21-2005 06:20 AM

Thanks guys, I think I'll leave mine on for now....

Back to the ball joints... I got mine loose tonight, but I was unable to get the joint to pop out! I bought one of those press out tools and the bolt that you tighten to press out the joint broke! I have also the fork, and that's not really goin for me either. Any suggestions? I going to get a stronger bolt and try again tomorrow. Borys

DoubleNutz 05-21-2005 11:26 AM


Originally Posted by Airflite40
Thanks guys, I think I'll leave mine on for now....

Borys

Great idea...because as the saying saying goes- you never have to take time to do it right the first time but there's always PLENTY of TIME to keep doing it over! :bigbye:

Airflite40 05-22-2005 12:30 PM


Originally Posted by Airflite40
Back to the ball joints... I got mine loose tonight, but I was unable to get the joint to pop out! I bought one of those press out tools and the bolt that you tighten to press out the joint broke! I have also the fork, and that's not really goin for me either. Any suggestions? I going to get a stronger bolt and try again tomorrow. Borys

bump for ball joint question

Mark 05-22-2005 12:36 PM

use the "2 hammer method"....Hold one hammer against one side, and give the other side a good rap....this will distort the hole enough for a moment, to allow the bolt to come out. The forks tend to screw things up on these cars...this ain't your dad's buick!

Rez 05-22-2005 03:32 PM

True what Mark said. Mine popped out using this approach. Do an archive search for the use of right tools and its placement, as both are critical to getting it to pop.

The only good way to get those holes filled, as mentioned is to find a good welder. Go to a hot rod shop. $200 bucks maybe. Then you can devote your energy to prepping before paint. That's where most money will be saved.


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