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No Start after rebuild

 
Old 05-16-2005, 06:59 AM
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Airflite40
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Default No Start after rebuild

Ok, I finished up my rebuild today. I put oil in the car and hooked up a fresh battery. All i got was crank and no start. Here is a list of what I replaced:
Distributor Cap
Dist Rotor
Spark Plugs
Plug Wires
Custom engine harness
All hoses and gaskets

I'm pretty sure I have fuel, since after cranking I can smell a lil hint of gas in the engine bay. I just replaced the fuel filter as well. I also had my fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested.
Where do I start looking?
Could it be that damn green wire to the dist?
Please help, car ran before rebuild.
It's starting to look like bust instead of SITM for me!

Another question is I cannot get the U-joint to reconnect with the steering rack. I have lowered and put back the rack three times already and I cannot get the nub on the rack to slide all the way in. Any suggestions? Pics coming soon. Thanks.
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Old 05-16-2005, 07:17 AM
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Garth S
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CIS car?
Crack open a supply line to an injector just enough to confirm fuel pressure/flow - then on to ignition. A quick first test with very high voltage (safety first!) is to pull one spark plug lead, connect to a spare plug - and ground that plug to the block. Fingers out - and crank. Spark at the gap?
Yes - back to metering plate, WUR, etc
No - meter in hand, back through ignition.

BTW - you said rebuild: Was the distributor out? If so, it is a trick and a half to correctly reinsert to get the rotor lined up on #1 @ TDC. An absolute must! Confirm that please ....
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Old 05-16-2005, 10:52 AM
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Yes, the distributor was out and I did line it up at TDC. What if I dont have a spare plug? My old ones are gone. How do I ground it to the block? Thanks.
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Old 05-16-2005, 10:53 AM
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Oh yeah, its a CIS car.
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Old 05-16-2005, 10:57 AM
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You ground it to the block just by taking it out and letting it to touch the block. Actually you will need somebody to look at the spark plug while you will be cranking. You can buy a spark plug tester in PepBoys, which I personally find more convinient to use. It costs like 6$.

Klim
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Old 05-16-2005, 11:58 AM
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Thanks, I went out to try again anf check the green wire, and this time I cranked and the starter died. Now it just goes click when I turn the key. Battery dead? I'm going to try the spark plug thing tonight. Any ideas on the U-joint for the steering rack?
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Old 05-16-2005, 12:11 PM
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Battery is dead. Get a charger on that thing.

As for the steering U-joint... the only thing I can think of is to losen the entire rack to get gnough play and then with the rack-side of the U-joint loose on the Rack spline, fit onto the U-joint and then re-tighten everything. Don't know if you're already doing htis or not. I've never done this so, I'm just guessing.
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Old 05-16-2005, 12:19 PM
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Thanks andrew. I am trying exactly that, the problem is that the rack doesn't want to slide into the U-joint all the way. It only slides in about 1/3 and wont go in further. I tried using a screw driver to pry it open more, but it is tough because the steering shaft just spins around. About the charger, I saw a sun charger at pep boys. any one tried that? it has a long, rectangular pad that you place in sunlight and it connects to the battery. Thanks everyone.
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Old 05-16-2005, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Airflite40
Thanks andrew. I am trying exactly that, the problem is that the rack doesn't want to slide into the U-joint all the way. It only slides in about 1/3 and wont go in further. I tried using a screw driver to pry it open more, but it is tough because the steering shaft just spins around. About the charger, I saw a sun charger at pep boys. any one tried that? it has a long, rectangular pad that you place in sunlight and it connects to the battery. Thanks everyone.

No joy on those solar battery chargers. It will maintain the batt, but not charge it. Just get a little 12V 6 amp plug in charger.

As for the rack, try taking the pinch bolt completely out. Also, use a pry bar to align the shaft with the clamp. The shaft will move around quite a bit.

Doc
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Old 05-16-2005, 05:44 PM
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Thanks doc. I removed the bolt. I can get it aligned, I just cant slide it in all the way. It seems like the hole is too small.
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Old 05-16-2005, 05:49 PM
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The pinch bolt will stop it from sliding on, but I gather you removed that now anyway. I can't think what else would prevent it from going on unless some of the splines got mooched. Can you give it a little encouragement with a mallet or draw it on with a c-lamp?
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Old 05-16-2005, 10:03 PM
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I tried the mallet, and it didn't work. Maybe a c-clamp would work. Thanks

I also went to pep boys to get a spark plug tool, and they had no idea what I was talking about. Will this work if I pull the plug wire, then the plug, then reattach wire to plug, touch the end of the plug to block to ground, then try and crank?
Could it be the ignition control? What causes those to fail? mine worked fine last july.
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Old 05-16-2005, 10:33 PM
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When I was trouble shooting my cis system in my 79 I found it was really easy to chase your tail if your bat.voltage is'nt totaly charged.
Even though the bat. would crank the engine like a champ the ignition system would not fire unless you have a GOOD charge like 12.5 and up.

If you carfully put a screwdriver tip in your plug lead and hold the screw driver(by the insulated handle) about 1/4-1/8" from a intake tube you should see a spark jump when you crank the eng. CAREFULL!!
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Old 05-16-2005, 10:50 PM
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Do check the splines ...
When I replaced the rack, the splines on the pinion did not allow the universal to slip on: one or two were mashed a bit. The cure was a $5 set of gunsmith type files: it was necessary to reshape the splines, after which it slid together easily. The real trick is centering the dimple on the rack rod ( visible via the plastic plug on the front of the rack) - then leveling the steering wheel - and fitting the universal to the correct spline ....
Yes, you can pull a plug, fit the ignition lead, and clip on a ground wire to the plug threads. Crank and look for a healthy spark.
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Old 05-17-2005, 12:42 AM
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to test spark, borrow or buy a inductive timing light.
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