928drvr86.5

I will be Replacing my sagging boge shock and spring set up on my 86.5 with Bilstein/Eibach as soon as the parts arrive. Last night i was looking at the shop manual procedure for removing the Coil overs and i realized i need to remove the upper A arm from the chassis and upper ball joint from the hub. Is the VW part numbered tool illustrated in the manual the only tool that will work or can i use another commercially available tool? Also i will be replacing the motor mounts at the same time and will need to loosen the bolts for the lower arms to facilitate lowering of the cradle. Would it be possible to remove the coil overs with just the lower control arm loose while doing the motor mounts, and not removing the upper Arm and ball joint? Am i correct to assume the rear coilover removal is simple compared to the front? it kind of looks that way.

Thanks for any advice,

Ben Burris
86.5 indischrot AT #1459

jim morehouse

Ben
Not sure about the removal procedure but there was a thread awhile ago where someone said the JC Whitney remover worked well. Do a search for posts under my name, I may have even started the thread...memory is shot. I'm not at home or I could find the part number for you. Around $15 I think. There are also two different size Stahlwille tools that look the same as the VW tool on ebay right now but much more expensive, around $100 each.

Jim

Glen McCartney

Ben,
I replaced the strut assemblies last year on my MY 85 and did it by removing the lower control arm, raising the upper control arm and threading the shock through the control arm, I think it is much easier than removing the upper arm. You don't need a ball joint tool on the lower control if the 86.5 is the same as the 85, the nut on the lower control arm is an acorn style nut that actually presses out the ball joint from the control arm.

Glen McCartney

Forgot, the rears are a piece of cake to do.

928drvr86.5

Thanks guys, The manuals mention the set-up you describe with the nut pushing against a stop to press out the track rod or lower arm ball joint ( can't remember which) But i think it was deleted when they revised the suspension for the four piston Brembo's. Would a traditional wedgeshaped pickle fork work? If so , a friend has one that he is willing to loan out along with his coil spring compressors. Good to know it is possible to remove the coilovers with just the lower arm loose as i do the motor mounts.

Vilhuer

Fork works probably but instead of it I would use these:



They're more gentle for rubber booth and only cost few $ (in here at least).

Glen McCartney

Watch out using the forks, they tend to rip the boots on the joints, steering and ball joints. The boots on the upper A arm are replaceable, parts available from the Big 3, but the lowers are not. I would use the tools shown in the previous post.

User 4221

Do a search on WallyP's method. Very simple way to use a hammer and strategically placed impacts.
It worked like a charm on my '81. No tool needed.

Shane

Scott is correct, I just loosened the nut to the top of the ball joint stud and smacked it a couple of times with a rubber faced mallot.

UKKid35

http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/lowera.htm

Check the rest of Tony's site for reinstallation, and for rear suspension too

hupp

Do a forum search on "Ball Joint Removal Tool". This topic was dsicussed in recent months and someone had posted a link where the tool shown in Vilhuer's post could be odered. About $15-$20 if I remember..

Vilhuer

Hitting works usually but I'm always reluctant to use force when there are more subtle options available. One possibility is to use cooling spray to cool down part of joint what goes through hub. This alone might be enough to break the bond.

jpitman2

The right hand tool in pics above cant get in place to separate the early (pre 86.5) lower ball joints, you will need the left hand unit - BTDT. Leave the nut on the ball joint thread, reversed with its flat face flush with end of thread to prevent thread damage - BTDT. I also was able to screw the shock/spring unit down through the upper arm, but its a bit of a struggle unless you get the upper arm as high as possible - easier if you separate the spindle from upper arm. The rears are easier than fronts, as long as you remember at re-assembly time that the 3 top fixing bolts are asymmetric, and will only go back in one way! I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out why I couldnt get the top to engage (on my own) until I realized this.
jp 83 Euro S AT 49k

GlenL

Yes, "someone" did:

Everyone should have the ball joint press tool. Very useful for getting the bugger off and it will not ruin the boots. Works on uppers and lowers

http://www.mytoolstore.com/toolaid/suspn02.html#61900

Best $13.50 you'll every spend. Or something close to it.

928drvr86.5

Thanks Glen. I ordered the ball joint press tool from the link you posted and also a set of spring compressors.