deliriousga

I've read all of the posts here and on Nichols' site about removing the bolts. One of the posts said to use a punch and a hammer to pop the bolts loose then they would come out easily. I tried that and they're still really tight and won't come off. I don't want to do the other suggestion of stripping the bolts and extracting them so how hard do you need to hit the punch to loosen the bolts? Can I use something like liquid wrench or will that cause a problem with the bolts not staying snug after I put them back in? I don't want to damage anything and would like to keep the bolts in good condition if possible.

Any other suggestions on how to get them off?

Thanks!

worf928

John, ummm... why not just buy the triple-square socket that fit's the flywheel bolts?

It's like $12 for the set of 5 different sizes.

Vlocity

John:

I assume that you have the right tool and by striking the fastener you were hoping to break the threadlocker bond. If that didn't work the next thing to use would be some heat. Try a small butane torch. I doubt that any penetrating oil would ever actually make it to where you need it right now.

Go slow....don't strip the fastener head.

Ken

worf928

John, I apologize. Unlike Ken, I assumed you didn't have the right tool. I agree with Ken. Heat. If not a small torch then a heat gun. It will take longer though.

deliriousga

Sorry Dave, I forgot to mention the tools. I picked up the socket earlier, I just didn't want to put too much pressure on it and strip the head. I'll pick up a torch on the way home and try the heat.

Thanks!

mark kibort

time for the torch?

worf928

Did you cut the shaft of the socket down so that you can keep it square?

Anyways. Try the heat. That usually does the trick.

GlenL

Those are put on to 90Nm. The bolt heads are good for a lot more.

Get an iron pipe on the breaker bar, hold the socket into the bolt with one hand, and give it a go.

deliriousga

I can't get the darn socket to cut, but it's nicely dented a little now. I'm going to try it with box end wrench down the socket and some heat from my brand spankin' new butane torch.

I wish I could get my impact wrench in there, that has worked beautifully on the other tough ones. Just not enough room with that long socket. If that doesn't work I guess I'll have to see if another auto shop has shorter sockets.

Thanks for all of the suggestions!!

worf928

You couldn't cut the shaft? Dremel.

deliriousga

Oh well, so much for that. Can't get a good grip since the socket is so long. Wrench does no good because it's not long enough to get good pressure on it. How long do you put the heat on it without damaging anything. The butane torch says it's 2400 degrees.

Yeah, I don't have a Dremel, but I do have an air tool like the Dremel. I'll be picking up a little cutting wheel for it at Lowes tomorrow at lunch. I'm also going to see if they have a short socket for the impact wrench so maybe I can get that short enough to use it.

Bill Ball

These bolts should not have threadlocker on them. They require a 12MM triple square. Then the problem is holding the triple square in place so it won't back out and strip the cheeseheads. I slid the TT flange forward and snugged down the clamp so as to trap the triple square and keep it in the cheesehead. I had a 13MM box end wrench on the triple square's shaft. The bolts came off. Pictures here:
http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/seal/seal.htm

Now your 5-speed may have a shorter TT, etc. so you may not have to cut off the triple square like I did.

deliriousga

Thanks for the great write up. I do have alot more room on the 5spd than shown on your AT. In your pictures you can see the shaft under the housing and it cannot be removed. In the 5spd the clutch is housed in the area behind the flywheel. There is a separate shaft through the clutch that is coupled to the shaft that runs to the back. The whole flange that's on the square part of the sleeve of yours is not on the 5spd. Instead the sleeve has two of the squares with the bolts for coupling the shaft that goes through the clutch with the one that goes into the TT area (I assume that shaft goes into the TT, but don't know since haven't been there). The shaft that is through the clutch comes out with the clutch assembly so the entire housing is empty except for the flywheel. There's about 6"+ of room from the flywheel to the back of the housing where the TT is. Enough room to work in, but not enough for the impact wrench.

I'll see how far I can get the sleeve down the shaft to try and hold the bit in place, but not confident since the bolt has to go through the groove on the shaft made for it. I'm picking up the cutter today and will be trying all of this stuff tomorrow morning. Hoping I can finish by end of day Saturday.

SteveG

Great write-up by Bill. Thanks.

Bill Ball

Yeah, the 5-speed is vastly different. The basic problem is keeping the bit seated in the cheeseheads. The torque is only supposed to be 66 ft lbs. They should come off, but it would be easier with a longer lever arm than the short box end I used. Off the top of my head, I can't give you any other ways to hold the bit in. Anybody else? Sure, if there is PLENTY of room then an impact driver is the way to go. Definitely not an option with an AT and the motor still in the car.