Brake/Clutch bleeder recomendations...
#1
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Who likes what? Or should I just have my bro-in-law press the pedal as I watch the reservior and the bleeder? 928 Motorsports has the hand pump one for $54 bucks? Is there a cheaper version? Where can i find it? Does it matter if the clutch is bleed first/second? I'm installing a new Slave cyl. so I'll push the rod in, put it in the system and let go. Then I'll open the Bleeder and push the rod back and then close the bleeder, does this makes sense?
Now that I've done the TB/WP if feel like I can do more than I used to for the car. I always did brakes, oil and odds and ends but now I think I won't be needing the shop to much more. Teaching myself how to do this stuff isn't to bad, with the help of Tony and Pirtile's websites. Saved myself at least $1000 so far this year.
Now that I've done the TB/WP if feel like I can do more than I used to for the car. I always did brakes, oil and odds and ends but now I think I won't be needing the shop to much more. Teaching myself how to do this stuff isn't to bad, with the help of Tony and Pirtile's websites. Saved myself at least $1000 so far this year.
#2
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Curt,
I have had great results with the Motive power bleeder from 928 Specialists. It is about $45 or so and way easy to use. It will take longer to get the car in the air and remove the wheels than to actually bleed the brake system.
Jim R.
I have had great results with the Motive power bleeder from 928 Specialists. It is about $45 or so and way easy to use. It will take longer to get the car in the air and remove the wheels than to actually bleed the brake system.
Jim R.
#3
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Curt........after years and years of bleeding brakes with the manual method and a SO/helping friend I am fully converted to the Motive power bleeder. It is simple to use, its a one man operation and you only use a reasonable amount of fluid. As Jim mentions the time in the project is elevating the car and removing the wheels and I also got my bleeder from 928GT currently selling for $45.
#4
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In the description it says its only for the 78-79 models. DR, can you help me out, is there a different one for S4+? The Mity-Vac Bleeder/Tester is only $10 more, should I just go for that one instead? I Bought ATE blue accidentally and should've gotten gold or can you tel the difference between new/old as you are bleeding?
#5
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FYI, we have the Motive Power Bleeders on sale for a limited time for only $39.
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#6
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Curt,
>In the description it says its only for the 78-79 models. DR, can you help me out, is there a different >one for S4+?
That was a "user input error", Jeannie did all the "Bs" so I am blaming her :-) It is now fixed.
>The Mity-Vac Bleeder/Tester is only $10 more, should I just go for that one instead?
I am not a big fan of using the MityVac for brake bleeding, the Power Bleeder is MUCH better.
However, the MityVac has many other uses.
>I Bought ATE blue accidentally and should've gotten gold or can you tel the difference between >new/old as you are bleeding?
If the Blue is old enough to change you should be able to tell as it will be darker, if you can't tell the difference then I feel it might be too early to change it.
>In the description it says its only for the 78-79 models. DR, can you help me out, is there a different >one for S4+?
That was a "user input error", Jeannie did all the "Bs" so I am blaming her :-) It is now fixed.
>The Mity-Vac Bleeder/Tester is only $10 more, should I just go for that one instead?
I am not a big fan of using the MityVac for brake bleeding, the Power Bleeder is MUCH better.
However, the MityVac has many other uses.
>I Bought ATE blue accidentally and should've gotten gold or can you tel the difference between >new/old as you are bleeding?
If the Blue is old enough to change you should be able to tell as it will be darker, if you can't tell the difference then I feel it might be too early to change it.
#7
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It was last changed in May 2004 and the car wasn't driven more then 2-3k miles. None of which were track miles. I think I'll bleed anyway so I no how to do it and so I know its fresh before our Memorial Day DE. I think I'll roll up on the Power Bleeder and some Gold Fluid. I'll use the Blue next year. Off to your website to place another order.
So I start by replacing the fluid in the res. with the gold, then filling up the Power Bleeder. Then I'll crack the passenger rear outer bleed screw and close it when it turns gold. then to the inner and then drivers side rear, "new" clutch slave cylinder(open the bleeder push the rod in, close it let the rod out, open it and push it in again then close it), passenger front, drivers front, and then the master cylinder. Close it up and top off the fluid. Sound good to every one? Is this the best procedure? I'll install the new slave cylinder first then start the bleeding?
So I start by replacing the fluid in the res. with the gold, then filling up the Power Bleeder. Then I'll crack the passenger rear outer bleed screw and close it when it turns gold. then to the inner and then drivers side rear, "new" clutch slave cylinder(open the bleeder push the rod in, close it let the rod out, open it and push it in again then close it), passenger front, drivers front, and then the master cylinder. Close it up and top off the fluid. Sound good to every one? Is this the best procedure? I'll install the new slave cylinder first then start the bleeding?
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#8
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Hi Curt,
>So I start by replacing the fluid in the res. with the gold, then filling up the Power Bleeder.
This is where the brake kit part of the MityVac comes in real handy, I use it to "suck" the old fluid completely out of the MC reservoir before adding the new fluid and connecting the Power Bleeder. I get quicker/cleaner fluid flushes that way.
>So I start by replacing the fluid in the res. with the gold, then filling up the Power Bleeder.
This is where the brake kit part of the MityVac comes in real handy, I use it to "suck" the old fluid completely out of the MC reservoir before adding the new fluid and connecting the Power Bleeder. I get quicker/cleaner fluid flushes that way.
#9
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DR wrote:
"This is where the brake kit part of the MityVac comes in real handy, I use it to "suck" the old fluid completely out of the MC reservoir before adding the new fluid and connecting the Power Bleeder. I get quicker/cleaner fluid flushes that way."
I love my MityVac, and it works _very_ well, but a turkey baster works fine for emptying reservoirs. Or, even better, an irrigation syringe.
"This is where the brake kit part of the MityVac comes in real handy, I use it to "suck" the old fluid completely out of the MC reservoir before adding the new fluid and connecting the Power Bleeder. I get quicker/cleaner fluid flushes that way."
I love my MityVac, and it works _very_ well, but a turkey baster works fine for emptying reservoirs. Or, even better, an irrigation syringe.
#10
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Originally Posted by Fogey1
DR wrote:
"This is where the brake kit part of the MityVac comes in real handy, I use it to "suck" the old fluid completely out of the MC reservoir before adding the new fluid and connecting the Power Bleeder. I get quicker/cleaner fluid flushes that way."
I love my MityVac, and it works _very_ well, but a turkey baster works fine for emptying reservoirs. Or, even better, an irrigation syringe.
"This is where the brake kit part of the MityVac comes in real handy, I use it to "suck" the old fluid completely out of the MC reservoir before adding the new fluid and connecting the Power Bleeder. I get quicker/cleaner fluid flushes that way."
I love my MityVac, and it works _very_ well, but a turkey baster works fine for emptying reservoirs. Or, even better, an irrigation syringe.
#12
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>Will..........gotta fully agree; turkey baster good for brake fluid, steering fluid etc etc and all for >$2.50CDN
Hmmm. one muscle twitch with a baster full of brake fluid and SQUIRT... all over your paint!!
No thanks, I'll stick to a tool that is made for the job.
Hmmm. one muscle twitch with a baster full of brake fluid and SQUIRT... all over your paint!!
No thanks, I'll stick to a tool that is made for the job.