AO

I'm just about ready to pop the lower ball joints and redo the struts and tie rod ends. I've figured out a cool way to make sure the alignment goes back to where it is now. More on that later. in order for it to work though, I think it best to "pin" the steering rack so the wheels are straight. Does anyone know what size the threads are for the steering rack centering bolt? On my last parts purchase the vendor (1 of the big 3) couldn't find it. I thought I could just pin it, but after investigation, what I need is a tapered or pointy bolt to center the steering rack. kinda like this:

. /~~~~~~~~~~~~
/ |\ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \
\ | \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \
. \~~~~~~~~~~~~

I've got a bench grinder that I think I could use to fashion a point on a regular bolt. Just don't know what size I need. Calling all gurus

Back to the home alignment thingamajig I made. (Don't have pics, I'll try to take some tonight)

Since I'm replacing the rear rotors, I took one of the old rotors and placed it with the hat facing down - so the face that would normally be facing the inside of the car is now up. Because there was a lip on the surface of the rotor, I super-glued two ordinary washers (I think they were 5/16 zinc washers). This gave me to points to glue a Harbor Freight Laser level (on sale last week for $10 I think). Then, I mounted the rotor backwards so the laser level is facing out. Mounting it backwards like this allows the laser to clear the side of the car so you can shoot the beam onto the wall.

I now rotated the rotor so it is level is horizontal, shoot the beam on the wall, and mark the dot with a sharpie. Turn it 90* and shoot the same dot on the floor and mark that with the sharpie.

Did it for all 4 wheels. (Gonna redo the front after I get the bolt fashioned). Now I should be able to pull the whole damn thing apart, put it back together and re align to the dots, and have the same geometry.

One thing to note: I've removed the brakes, I'm not sure if this would work with the brakes still on... but it should. Hope this helps someone.

DR

Hi Andrew,

I don't know the specs off the top of my head, but the part # 000.721.913.20 (Porsche Tool 9132), cost is $7 and we keep them in stock. They are very handy and I keep one in the glovebox of all my 928s so I always have it when alignments are done.

Here is a photo of one if it helps.

AO

Yep, that's the one. $7? Hmmmmm. No offense, but I think I can probably do it for $.50 if I can find the right size. I'm guessing its 10mm-ish. I'll run over to the hardware store at lunch time and see what I can find.

FlyingDog

For those who want to try this and don't have a Harbor Freight nearby, I noticed Walmart has had Straightline brand laser levels for about $10 since before Christmas.

Garth S

You can try the M10 - but I'd pick up a M12x1.5: It could cost $7 to get a centered pointy end on it ...

heinrich

Andrew right you likely could ... of course this is a Porsche tool, and those have a Porsche price.

Steve J.

I'm using a HF laser clamped to the rotor to restore the alignment to where it was before I began replacing the aluminum ball joints. The laser has an attachment that turns the dot into a line, visible on the floor and wall. The rack centering bolt is a M12x1.5 that I ground to a point on the end.

AO

I'll get the 10 and 12. THanks guys!

DR

Hi Andrew,
> $7? Hmmmmm. No offense,

None taken, you will have to disuss the pricing with Porsche AG and PCNA :-)

>but I think I can probably do it for $.50 if I can find the right size.

Darn cheap labor... I hope the Labor Commision doesn't check up on you!

JUST KIDDING! :-)

Bill Ball

Andrew:

This may not matter with your procedure, since you establish the position of each wheel at baseline, but I just want to make clear the centering bolt often will not center the wheels. The relationship between the center divot on the rack and the position of the splines on the sterring column shaft can vary from rack to rack. In order to precisely center the steering wheel, you often need to make small adjustments to the tie rods after an alignment and this throws off the divot position. So, the centering bolt will lock the rack in a specific position so the rack internals may be centered, but the wheels may not be centered.

AO

Bill-
I guess what I'm doing is not a true alignment per se, but rather a re-alignment to their current position. By locking the steering rack, I'm getting a REPEATABLE referrence point. Otherwise, it's a crap shoot if I just use the steering wheel to referrence the position of the wheels, and I'm not sure if the column lock is all that accurate (play??). The bolt idea apperas to be the best way to go.

FYI... when I'm all done, I will take it in for a proper alignment. This is just stop-gap measure.

Bill Ball

Yeah, I edited my post while you were writing your reply to take that into account. Probably better than just counting tie rod threads or measuring tie rod length.

Earl Gillstrom

Andrew,

You might want to look at my site. I think I covered that procedure as well as other alignment tips in miscellanous ramblings.

AO

Too late... bought the bolt (12mm). A whopping $0.67!

80/20 baby... 80/20.

Harald944

Just be careful:
Standart pitch on M12 is 1.75 mm, 1.5 mm is fine pitch.
Please check before using or you will damage your threat.

Best regards

harald