SharkSkin

Another Rennlister found a cheaper source for Stabilant; here is what he posted.

Dennis Wilson

The following is a picture of my fuse panel with three adapters installed. In hindsight I would have cut the leads shorter. I've been running the blower motor and rear window defogger fuses this way for a few months and have recently converted the fuel pump fuse. For 8 amp fuses I use a 10 amp ATO. A fifteen amp for the 16 amp fuses.

JP I didn't receive an attachment or embedded picture in your e mail.

Dennis

jpitman2

Dennis, dont know what happened there. Anyway, a pic is at
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/biggle...bum?.dir=/d473
with others of my car - 'fuseblock' at the end. Should be open to anybody.
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k

Dennis Wilson

JP,

Attached is your picture. This looks a lot tidier than my set up. Of course there are going to be the to and fro wires but they could be put in a loom.

Dennis

jpitman2

Yes, If you screwed the strip carrier to a piece of ply that bolted under the top mounting screws, you could make it pretty neat. Could be done gradually in groups of 6. The individual holders are 10mm wide, 45mm long, the loose piece of plastic goes in the end of the strip to lock the fuse units in.
jp 83 Euro S AT 48k

jpitman2

Ok, what does anybody think of this idea? The fuseholder is mini-blade (I think, I have a few different size floating around), from Keystone (19.8mm long). one connector is female 1/4" blade with a male blade on the other end. The connector is a 5/16 female with the top cut off. The two pins of each end's socket are soldered (pronounced with an L!) to the connectors. Its fit into board is very good and tight (since I have tightened the females), and it lines up perfectly. Not sure where I can get more of this type of 1/4" female yet...The fuse blade clips have some freedom of movement in the plastic body, so they can slef align some.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

danglerb

The only type of mod I would consider pursuing would require the existing back of the CE panel wires going directly to the metal of the new fuse holder with a reliable mechanical connection. Otherwise I think its best to kept the CE panel stock and clean it from time to time.

jpitman2

I Dont see the "directly connected" thing is EVER going to happen. When did you last experience a disconnect on a spade tag connector in the CE board area?
Dont forget there are already several blade connectors in line :-

- one at the front bottom in an incoming plug
- one at the back of the one above linking to the next one below
- one at the other end going to one end of the fuse
- one connecting at front to other (top)end of fuse (the bent bit of copper)
- one coming out of the fuse to the outgoing connector
- one leaving the board to the load

My idea adds ONE new connector, replacing the crappy bottom end of bullet fuse contact. I would bet this gives 5-10 times as much contact area as the bullet fuse provides, at higher contact pressures.
This holder is rated at 20A/500V, (http://www.keyelco.com/products/spec...tone3557-2.asp) and takes std Mini and Low profile Mini blade fuses. There is a 30A rated holder, but it has exposed blade sockets (http://www.keyelco.com/products/specs/spec92.asp), which would probably need to be covered with shrink wrap - next experiment.
I didnt want to make any changes that would prevent easy reversion to original. So far I have done a few dozen insert and removes from board without and signs of fragility of the joints. Removal of a blown fuse may require steadying the holder, but i dont think thats a huge issue - I find it painful removing and refitting the bullets anyway.

jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

jpitman2

Next question - fuse rating discrepancy. The 928 Specialist chart shows for 82 model Fuse 22 as Fuel pump, WUR, Aux air valve as 25A; for 83-84 the chart shows Fuse 13 as same loads, but 16A...?
Does the lower rating reflect the fact that (for US models), the WUR is no longer present (no longer CIS, but L-Jet), or is it an error ?
Fuse 13 is correct for my 83 CIS Euro from memory, but will consult my owners manual.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

Ducman82

i like that idea very much. i was trying to think of a way to add an adapter like that do get the same effect with out going to all the trouble i did (cut/hack/epoxy/reattach/take back apart/ fix/done)

jpitman2

Some interest at last! I now have made 2 with the larger holder (multi fuse accepting), and 1 with a smaller mini blade only. Now trying to see if I can lower the profile by mounting the 5/16 female on the end of the holder instead of underneath. Waiting on some samples of the 30A rated holders to see how they work out.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

Alan

jp - if you used the bare 30A versions - are these ATC/ATO types? - IMO these are better than the ATM mini types for contact area reasons, also easier handling

In that case could a molded plastic cover be used over the top say for banks of n at a time as both an insulating cover and a fuseholder retention mechanism? - this could be mechanically attached to the underlying panel. Molding plastic parts is not so hard - might not be that expensive to tool up via a 3d printing process provider and use that as a mold (or even for a first run)

Alan

jpitman2

Alan,
Dont know enough about moulding to comment - I would have thought you would need big numbers before it was economic to make a mould.
I will post a pic of a holder in place - it seems pretty stable - R&R'ing a fuse several times doesnt move it much at all. I am also going to try lowering the profile of the holder by getting the 5/16 female on the end, rather than underneath it. Also when I get a 30A unit and get it fitted I will put up a pic. This is the multipurpose holder, and with a low profile mini in it, there will be no height issues I think, or even with a std blade fuse.
You can see there are no clearance issues sideways to other fuses , although if it was mixed in with bullets (as I would expect them to be for a long time), you might need a tool to R&R the bullet - chance of shorts with the new type are pretty low IMHO.

jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

Ducman82

thats great! i had an ideal close to that, but no idea how to proceed. good work.

jpitman2

Glad you like it. I have a couple more prototypes to make and test, and then a couple of user tests to do here in Oz, and maybe then send some out to US for trialling. I would hope somebody there who can solder stuff could make some up, having seen the parts and how it works.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k