Tim Murphy

Hey Tony,
I sent you a PM on what I do with my crank pulleys to keep them from "unscrewing" the crank bolt. Let me know if you would like more info.

BTW, the car looks great!!

Tony

"NOW"
For the record, I take commands from two people.
1) My Wife
2) The captain in the left seat that i fly with.


702-204-6086 is my cell number which is often on here and is probably searchable..or try the road help guide from the 928list.

Styln928

Tony

It was great meeting you and seeing your Shark in the "flesh". It is truely a work of art. Rob's beast that was next to yours was just as impressive. I'm now living vicariously through the two of you. Keep me posted on how were doing.

Tony

Likewise. I too have lived my 928 life , as you say, vicariously through others, but now its nice to be able to start to return the favor!

In Robs case, describing his car as a "Beast" is an understatement .

Tony

Thanks Tim, I got the email and thanks for the offer. Ill be calling around today.

Tony

Tony

found the bolt today Tim, thanks for the specs. I dont think i will be able to utilize your idea to stop the "unscrewing"..alhtough i think i can see what your talking about. PM the details anyway. I will see how this holds up for now.
I went with a longer bolt than stock but 5mm shorter than yours as my pulley is a bit different.(i didnt want to bottom out..yet i wanted a longer bolt) , blue loctite(medium) , slightly higher grade bolt and a good click on the rented 250ftlb TQ wrench. I gave her 240ftlbs after talking with my bolt man about the threads and grade of bolt.

FYI, any good rental shop will rent these big TQ wrenches. I got a 1/2 "drive..250fltbs...for 9bucks for the day from AHERN rentals here in vegas!

$9 well spent and peace of mind. "Ya gotta hear the click" is a comment that has echoed in my head since i heard it from Carl Sharktoberfest. An obvious thing but still, i didnt do it the first time and nearly paid the price.

BTW, I had no issues in removing the bolt with the red loctite. Was that full or medium strength Bill?!



Im

martin D

Hey Tony
Dont Home Depot do 250ftlbs torque wrench's, or didint you think you could pollish it up & return it !

Congrats on a fantastic install

Gretch

I bought a nice 300 pounder from Napa and use it all the time now. Nice feeling knowing the lug bolts are all torqued correctly, on all of my vehicles. Tim speced out the torque for the "Jayzus" bolt in addition to the torque for the blower bracket bolts.......plus the loctite blue comes with the kit......That is one advantage of purchasing a kit that is advertised as "complete". It either IS, or it ISN'T, and it is easy to tell......

Tony, you get a lot of credit for your willingness to participate in the design of the install. Andy advertises it that way, so there should be no surprises in that aspect. I am a wrench by hobby, and know just enough engineering to be dangerous, to myself. For me, completeness of the design was a huge selling factor. When I bought my kit, Andy's was not available. So no one should think the last comment is aimed at Andy.However, as much as I like the appearance of the twin rotor install, my lack of engineering skill would not allow me to put my shark to that level of risk, even today.

Engineering skill is not necessarily translated to interpersonal skill...(Right, Turbo John?). All these installs, irrespective of who the vendor is (or was) likely have some "expectation gap". Some of these get out of hand. FAST and Munk are not generally sanctioned by "customers" here because of the "expectation gap" they created with customers. This latest 'tiff Looks like a "failure to communicate" to me.

BTW.....My transaction with Tim Murphy experienced ZERO expectation gap. Any issues that came up were answered with prompt action (even when it cost Tim money), no questions asked.

Tony, Andy.....good luck, that is really a SLICK looking install.

SharkSkin

Generally, "blue" is considered "removable" and "red" is considered "permanent". The red is generally stronger than the fastener. Both will turn to powder at ~400°F, though it's not always practical to heat the part to that extent(e.g. crank bolt).

If you had no issues removing that big of a bolt that was installed with "red", then what happened was probably one or both of the following:

1) There was some issue with the product itself. (unlikely; I have a 20 year old "bottle of red" that works great)
2) There was some issue with the prep. (shake well, surfaces must be super-sterile)

IIRC Loctite has on their site specific reccomendations about products and procedures to be used for prep. Having said all that, the "blue" is probably the better choice, so you don't snap the bolt in the crank leaving a non-removable piece in there.

928ntslow

Tony, there was so much going on at SF04, that we didn't have a whole lot of time to chat...I would say we were both pretty busy. Never the less, it is always great seeing you and this time with your "reborn". Thank you for the show of the car and inspiring others to follow your path...the car was a "hit". Great Job!

Carl Fausett

Your car made an excellent presentation, Tony, as you did.

Quick idea about crankshaft pulley "unwinding" : wonder if you couldn't put a dog in the back of the crank pulley that sticks out about 1/2", and drill a hole in the factory AC pulley that corresponds to the placement of the dog pin.

Then, when you install the crank pulley, this dog pin protrudes thru the AC pulley and engages the casting of the harmonic balancer. That would prevent the twisting that is unwinding your bolt.

If you prefer a mechanical solution like this to a chemical solution (like loctite)

BrianG

Carl, that sounds like a great idea! A machinist should be able to index any number of corresponding holes radiused a decent distance from the center bore. Hardened steel pin(s) interference-fit into one pulley and slip-fit into the other ought to fix the slippage issue. I was considering 4-6 3/16" OD such indexed pins.

With the S/C pulley indexed to the keyed pulley, the crank-snout bolt could be safety-wired, too.

This does pose the consideration of keyway shear load, however. Anyone care to ramp up the slide-rule on that one??

fst951

Hi.

I take orders from one thing, Physics. All you had to do is clean the damn bolt and threads and put it in with loctite Red 261, not 262. Yes actually it does help to torque the bolt properly but it wouldn't have mattered if you went to 200 lbs feet or 250 lbs feet if you had used the loctite products. If you want the best way to secure the crank snout pulley follow this ORDER: Get a proper stud of 12.9 hardress and screw it in and set it with loctite after priming both parts with loctite primer. Let the stud in the crankshaft snout cure under 50 lbs of torque so that the stud is in tension from the nut and washer that you have choosen. I don't reccomend locking washers unless they are the heavy wave type as the cause scarring. The next morning back off the nut and tighten it all the way down using a 10.9 hardness nut. Problem solved no more mistakes like that. Or don't follow my orders and use an inferior method.

Good luck.

Blown Beast

Tony, I too know what it is like to have spent HUNDREDS of hours on my car and have people dismiss it as a kit that was bolted on. Your are a First Rate guy in my book for standing there all day and takeing it as well as answering questions and promoting it. Your install is very nice and well thought out, and I DO know what it took for you to be there, and for it to be done RITE. If you need any help you got my #. Rob