hacker-pschorr

Brendan,
No matter what I do, Todd will be receiving one of these IP for inspection / redesign. Who knows what he will come up with.

Glen,
Thanks again for chiming in, we will figure this out - then I'll add the 9psi pulley and wear down the one rear tire that spins with my non-LSD car.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Hacker I do have a new clutch shaft in stock give me a call .....

Vilhuer

Central shaft is most obvious suspect but sometimes it's not the cause. Relatives car had brand new one. Clutch stayed in adjustment only until cars nose was out of garage. That's why we are now looking ways to improve intermediate plate design. There's no point in buying new intermediate plate if all it takes is to change these washers. I would check center shaft first and replace it with new one if there is any meaningful wear in bores. If not, I'd try modified washers. Problem has to be either center shaft or intermediate plate.

hacker-pschorr

Vilhuer,
How do you remove / replace the washers in the first place?

BC

I'm all ears about the washers. It would have to be rebalanced.

Vilhuer

Dowel things which hold washers in place need to be grind away as it is not meant to be dismantled. It will be replaced with something else. There isn't much space so whatever is used must be small. We are thinking about high strength bolt and nut. Modifying stock parts and making few custom parts like different design adjuster and it's mounting pieces would buy some more room. If changing just bolt doesn't work this is probably next thing we try.

I think balancing is not absolutely necessary as we are replacing all old washers with new ones. Total weight will probably change gram or two but change is distributed evenly among all three stacks. I'm more worried what will happen if one of the bolts will let go. To prevent this we plan to use glue. Even if balancing is required it can be done.

Buying new intermediate plate is not an option as it would meat we have lost the battle. I'm surprised no-one hasn't done this before. I quess it's easier to buy new stock parts that try out new ideas. It certainly must be possible to improve Porsche design.

hacker-pschorr

Viluher,
Jim and other have brought up a good point. If you make the T-Adjusters permanent in one spot, as the clutch disks wear out (guaranteed not to be even between the two disks) you might have a worse problem. If the front disk wears down, the floater disk might not move enough to even reach the disk – causing all kinds of goofy issues.

Light a candle for me in the 928 shrine – see if the 928 God’s will let me get away with a new shaft.

FlyingDog

H-P, if you peen the pin that holds the adjuster in place so that it is tight like it is supposed to be, the worst problem you would have is needing to go in and adjust it again after you've worn most of your clutch discs' friction material off. I'm not even sure that is a big deal. From new to work out, the thickness should only change about 2.2mm. I think replacing the washer or pin is overkill.

BC

The T adjuster you mean Matt? I'm trying to picture it. I think I know what everyone is talking about.

Vilhuer

Our system will use three spring washers just like factory. It also moves exactly like factory setup. Only difference is it's tightness can be adjusted when needed.

FlyingDog

Yes, the T-adjusters. I just pryed on my adjusters to see how hard they were to move. It was more than I expected, but they moved smoothly. I pushed them in (rearward I think) and now they don't want to come forward again.

BC

So thats obviously a wear situation then Matt? if the adjuster (with the spring loaded tab I remember) moves back and forth too much it will wear out and unadjust itself under pressure? Is this the entire issue we are discussing?

hacker-pschorr

Now we are getting somewhere - Jim's theory is 100% dead on. The only reason I might still need an IP is my floater disk will move forward with very little force (using a screw driver or something) while installed and the clutch fork is pulled back.

So on my shopping list is a come-along strap, tie down type device to wrench the clutch fork back. I'm taking pictures of this setup - should make a good signature.

BC

So these T-adjusters need to be able to MOVE, but not move under normal back and forth movements of the entire assembly. True?

Vilhuer

Exactly and when it starts to move trouble begins. To be able to tighten it when needed is the key.