GlenL

But why? Sounds like that old one needs an examination.

hacker-pschorr

Jim was baffled by it. He's adjusted countless number of these. That was when the "hole in the bell housing" idea was born. It was clear as day the center Intermediate Plate was not holding the adjustments they way it should.

Maybe it was a defect during manufacturing, I might bring it with me Saturday for all who would like to see it.

Old & New

The adjusters need to have a pretty good amount of drag on them; not so much that you can't move them with a screwdriver, but enough to avoid vibration moving them. You can peen the rivets down a bit to tighten them up, but don't go too far!

Ask your guy what method he used to set the adjusters. I had trouble with the book methods (had chatter), and had pretty good luck with the "push 'em all the way back" method.

Deb

What is the "push em back all the way"method ?
I finally bought a vacuum pump to bleed the slave and Master because I can't get enuf clutch to be able to shift normally - brake pedal is perfect -hard as a rock-. Have bleed the master and slave 6 times and still can't get it right? I've been up and down to refill the master cylinder so many times I feel like a toilet seat in a unisex bathroom.

GlenL

That's what I do, too: crank the adjusters all the way towards the rear. No worrying about even spacing or anything. I've wondered if it self-adjusts back a bit, but no matter, works for me.

On that balky clutch, have you tried pushing the slave rod in? That is all the way back to force the bubbles out. Check www.nichols.nu for techniques.

Here's an approach I used last Winter when the engine and clutch were out. With the slave detached from clutch and all, force the rod all of the way back. Then have a partner slowly press the clutch while opening the bleeder. Takes careful work to not shoot the slave piston out. Tipping up toward the bleeder helps get the bubbles out. Did that and it worked great. Might work with everything installed, but harder working under the car.

One more: make sure the rod on the clutch pedal is adjusted right. The older instructions say there should be a small bit of play between the rud tip and the master. Maybe 1/32". Later instructions say to have just a touch of pre-load. This gives more action from the master. One risk there is that if the master doesn't come back far enough, the port to the reservoir won't open. This can cause the circuit to be overfull, or to not fill enough.

HTH.

hacker-pschorr

Before anyone starts – this has nothing to do with my recent supercharger install. My clutch was acting up when it came out of storage.

2004 – Mid Summer I installed a brand new intermediate plate in my 1981 5-speed. Life was good. All other parts were very new since I recently did a clutch job, replaced everything but the intermediate plate, including master / slave and the blue hose.

2005 I drove the car about 15 miles (took the heads off in April, did not reinstall until October).

2006 – Spring – My clutch stopped disengaging. Drop the car off at Page Auto, he calls with the bad news. My “new” intermediate plate is not holding adjustment.
It started when I took the car out of storage. In the morning my clutch would not disengage – drive it about ¼ mile everything would start to work. I would “test” this all the time while driving around by coming to a stop, trying reverse – no grind = clutch is working properly.

I’ve had it – do a search, there are multiple threads dedicated to people who are having a bitch of a time adjusting these things, keeping them adjusted only to have them fail.

If the GTS works fine with a single disk, so will my supercharged 81.

A friend of mine has a new 87 clutch, complete except for the fork – he also has an S4 flywheel. What else is needed to convert my 81 to an S4 clutch? Is the torque tube the same on these cars?

The synchros are actually good in this trannie at 90k, I would like to keep it this way.

Unless someone has a known good intermediate plate to sell.

I am going to give Todd the one out of this car, see if he can come up with a way to improve the design. I still have a double disk in my track car to deal with.

ErnestSw

The double disk clutch is supposed to be much stronger than the single disk. I think it might be a good idea to keep it especially with your SC.

ErnestSw

The single disk is, however, dead simple to fool with. Even I couldn't screw up the installation!!

hacker-pschorr

Now you're catching on!

FlyingDog

The problem is not your intermediate plate. The dual disc is stronger (supposedly) and cheaper.

hacker-pschorr

Yes it is. Jim has been working on 928's since 1980, he knows what he is doing. He made a custom bell housing so he can watch the full clutch movement while in action. You set the T tabs on my intermediate plate, push the clutch in a few times, it moves, sticking to one of the friction plates. So, if the intermediate plate is fine - what is wrong?

A new intermediate plate alone is over $600 - how is that cheaper?

Ok - enough with the "stick with the double disk" posts unless you have a solution to this problem. Do a search, you will also find many people with the same issue - where an intermediate plate fixed the problem.

Otherwise I will be converting unless something big is needed, like a new torque tube since none of my local homies have a spare.

FlyingDog

Is it sticking to the front or rear friction disc? Is the plate worn? Is the flywheel worn? How is the release bearing? How is the intermediate shaft?

A complete dual disc clutch kit is about $600 if you look around (minus the intermediate plate), a single disc is $750+. Don't forget $200 more for an updated release arm and guide tube when you change your release bearing (which is more expensive). Your flywheel is also about $140 cheaper than an 87+ flywheel.

hacker-pschorr

I think it is sticking to the front - not 100% sure on that. I remember asking Jim about the "set it all the way back" method mentioned in a few threads. He tried that, so I assume he meant it was sliding forward and staying there.

Everything in this clutch pack has less than 5,000 miles - everything (except the fork, never replaced that).

In 2004 we had this thing apart at least 10 times swapping every part over and over trying different combinations (Jim has a lot of parts at his shop). Nothing changed - until I installed a new intermediate plate. Car shifted perfect for the rest of 2004 - it is my summer DD. I even ran the car for a two day DE in '04.

Fast forward to 2006 - same thing - same symptoms. Jim asjusts my clutch, it shifts fine for a mile or so, then freezes up. It was ok for the month I've been driving it (except when cold).

Kevin in Atlanta

I have a low mileage pressure plate from my GTS if you're interested.

FlyingDog

If it's the front I guess there isn't much else it could be. I assume you've tried other intermediate plates to see if yours is defective? Something just doesn't sound right.