torfin

Hi All,

I've been a computer geek for about 40 years now (working in 3D graphics), but I've never done 3D printing. A little basic research tells me there are 3 basic flavors of 3D printers, FDM, SLA, and SLS. I understand the basic theory of each, and I am about to invest in my first 3D printer. What I would like the know is, if I intend to make NLA plastic parts for my '89 928GT, can I make good parts using the cheapest format printer (FDM), or will the materials and lower accuracy of FDM preclude me from making decent parts for my car? My 928 will never get better than showroom quality, no concours for me. But I DO want parts that resemble and wear like the originals, at least to my faded eyes.

So, I ask those that know: will an FDM printer make 'good enough' parts, or do I need to step up to SLA or even :uch:: SLS? I'm talking about soft, medium, and hard plastics. For some things (like the rubberized back wiper bits that Depami designed), do I need one type over the other? Rubber bits seem to be especially hard to find.

BTW, this is for my own amusement. I'm not starting a new business. Thanks!

hans14914

I would start with an FMD printer. Its the intersection of functional and affordable. Prototype with that, and if you need a cosemtic part, send it out for SLS printing.

The SLA resins have come a long way, but the end parts tend to have some warping/shrinking with age and exposure. This is minimized to some extent with more expensive product, heated post curing... etc, but its still not what I would use for "end use" products in automotive.

That said, the SLA printing is great for prototyping, and again, just send out for the SLS parts when you need them.

SLS is coming along, but I think we are still a good 3-5 years before we see sub $10k desktop machines that can actually make end-use parts. Right now the budget SLS printer that works is the Fuse1, and that ecosystem is around $30k to get all the pieces.

Lots of people have lots of opinions on printers. I have eight machines now, and have been printing for around 15 years.

My recommendation for a beginner would be to get a BambuLab X1 (or a P1S if the first is not in the budget) or a SnapMaker J1s and order hardened hotends for whichever printer you end up and install them before you even do the initial calibration. You will find that using filament with glass in it solves lots of warping and adhesion issues, and that requires hardened nozzles and filament paths. None of these printers are very expensive, and I own them all, and use them regularly with no real maintenance and they just work without fiddling.

On the resin, don't get sucked into the open-source model - go closed ecosystem, and get a HeyGears machine. They just launched a new printer this week that is less expensive, and it will be a tremendous value. The open source model on SLA is great if you are a material scientist or just a tinkerer. None of the profiles that get published actually work, and you spend lots of time calibrating profiles for resin... and then that manufacturer will change the chemistry and you have to start fiddling all over again. With closed source, you are stuck buying their resin, but since they control it end-to-end, the profiles actually work, you end up saving money because you don't throw away failed prints, and its just fiddle free. HeyGears is the best value in the business bar-none right now. Their curing chamber is great. The wash station is pretty crummy. I would not buy one of those again.

You can spend a lot more, or a lot less on a printer, but these will get you up and running making functional parts with the fastest learning curve, limited maintenance, and no fiddling around with constant upgrades/mods.

Hope that helps,
Hans

Mister_M

I'm currently trying my hand at Autodesk Fusion to recreate the broken cam in my trunk lock. My dad has a 3D printer and thought I'd have him print up a test in plastic and it it works, sent it out for metal 3D printing or a tougher plastic. I'm just not good at 3D modeling. lol

Andrew Schauer

I second Hans' thoughts: home printers aren't quite to the level of long lasting automotive production parts just yet.
A Prusa Mk4 would be another good choice for home use. You'll make plenty of prototypes getting the results you want, no matter the printer. And then you can send away to any of the print services for a final part that will stand the test time.

torfin

Guys,

Thanks for the tips. I had not thought about prototyping in FDM and sending the file off to get an SLS part made somewhere else. I'll happily invest in FDM and give it a try. Does anyone know of one not made in China? I just don't buy from them. And what about carbon filament FDM? Worthwhile, or expensive gimmick?

hans14914

I would personally not worry about buying a Chinese printer... if you want you can get US made consumables.

Any printer assembled in the US will be using Chinese control boards, harnesses, LCD, bearings, rails, and power supply anyway... just no way around that. If you want to support domestic, just source all your materials from here.

There are several European manufacturers that make a larger percentage of their own machines, but you will be in the $3k starting price point for one that is actually useful.

Much like the computer and/or phone you are using to access Rennlist is not made here in the US, pretty much true of the 3D printer world as well.

torfin

It's not so much that I think China sells junk. They do, but they also sell good stuff if you pay for it. It's more a desire to not give money to a country that actively hates and want to destroy mine. While domestic purchase is my first choice, I'll happily buy from other countries (especially Taiwan), if domestic is not available. And yes, I'm very aware that many 'made in USA' products are only assembled here from chinese parts. I do what I can...

VilleJKL

I'm running Prusa mk4 (made in EU ~1000euros). You can totally make usable parts with it. I have printed inlet manifold and other induction ducts. Carbon filaments are good because they are little more temperature resistant but especially they are less prone to warping. Usable parts need to printed from temperature and chemically resistant filaments like ASA, PC or PA (nylon) filament which have tendency to warp. Prusa mk4 doesn't have enclosure but you can buy one from Prusa or one the aftermarket ones. I was feeling cheap and currently use cardboard box.