Having trouble removing timing belt
09-24-2024, 10:37 AM
#31
Drifting
Thread Starter
09-24-2024, 10:44 AM
#32
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Quiz:
You’ve just had a “timing belt done.”
You’ve been driving on the highway at highway speed on a summer day for a couple of hours.
Suddenly the traffic comes to a stop (due to construction, or an accident, or - my favorite - alien invasion, etc.) and starts inching forwards.
After 5 to 10-ish seconds the timing belt warning light comes on.
Why?
You’ve just had a “timing belt done.”
You’ve been driving on the highway at highway speed on a summer day for a couple of hours.
Suddenly the traffic comes to a stop (due to construction, or an accident, or - my favorite - alien invasion, etc.) and starts inching forwards.
After 5 to 10-ish seconds the timing belt warning light comes on.
Why?
Last edited by worf928; 09-24-2024 at 10:57 AM.
09-24-2024, 03:18 PM
#35
Drifting
Thread Starter
Just to update on what I found after removing tensioner from the block for rebuild.
The good news is that there was still oil in the tensioner, so I think the bore will be OK. Also the boot is still in excellent condition — very supple — so I may only need to replace the clamp and the piston o-ring for the rebuild.
The bad news is that the oil was still there because the STP I'd filled it with in 2015 is amazingly thick and treacly.
The piston at the front wasn't moving when I would the adjuster in and out. I removed the boot and the oil was so sticky that the washer stack didn't slide out after turning the tensioner upside down. I had to push with a punch from the back then the end of the stack and rod came out with only one 'set' of washers. The remaining washers were still in the tensioner! So the washer stack hadn't seized because of the bore becoming rough, but I think the rear end of the washer assembly had lost contact with the piston, as they'd kind of glued themselves to the bore.
I pushed them out with a longer screwdriver, and they were really stuck together with STP. Pushed more to retrieve the piston after putting the washers on the rod with the others. No chance they would fall apart!
Maybe the climate here is just too cool for STP (it's around 55F today) but I'm going to thoroughly wash/degrease all the parts including washers and when I refill use gear oil.
The good news is that there was still oil in the tensioner, so I think the bore will be OK. Also the boot is still in excellent condition — very supple — so I may only need to replace the clamp and the piston o-ring for the rebuild.
The bad news is that the oil was still there because the STP I'd filled it with in 2015 is amazingly thick and treacly.
The piston at the front wasn't moving when I would the adjuster in and out. I removed the boot and the oil was so sticky that the washer stack didn't slide out after turning the tensioner upside down. I had to push with a punch from the back then the end of the stack and rod came out with only one 'set' of washers. The remaining washers were still in the tensioner! So the washer stack hadn't seized because of the bore becoming rough, but I think the rear end of the washer assembly had lost contact with the piston, as they'd kind of glued themselves to the bore.
I pushed them out with a longer screwdriver, and they were really stuck together with STP. Pushed more to retrieve the piston after putting the washers on the rod with the others. No chance they would fall apart!
Maybe the climate here is just too cool for STP (it's around 55F today) but I'm going to thoroughly wash/degrease all the parts including washers and when I refill use gear oil.
09-24-2024, 05:02 PM
#37
Team Owner
no matter what oil you use,
make sure to put Hondabond or DreiBond 1209 on the new gasket,
and load the roller wheel like the belt is tensioned,
then tighten the bolts as your applying pressure to the roller.
This procedure will reduce the chance of the belt getting loose after a few heat cycles.
NOTE the tensioner will slide on the face of the block and find its home,
as it goes through a few heat cycles
make sure to put Hondabond or DreiBond 1209 on the new gasket,
and load the roller wheel like the belt is tensioned,
then tighten the bolts as your applying pressure to the roller.
This procedure will reduce the chance of the belt getting loose after a few heat cycles.
NOTE the tensioner will slide on the face of the block and find its home,
as it goes through a few heat cycles
09-24-2024, 05:44 PM
#38
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09-24-2024, 06:29 PM
#40
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The point I was trying to make is that with or without oil the Belleville pack will heat up and shrink the pack. Whether it does that sufficiently when the oil disappears remains to be seen.