Hood Switch boot repair and resecuring
 

The engine hood switch on my car has seen better days. The boot was torn, and it was flopping around because it wasn't secured properly—this part is NLA from Porsche ( 928srus offers an alternative switch). However, I decided to dig in and see if there were some repairs or remedies that could be improvised.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a24f981df.jpeg

Inspection of the switch revealed it was "press fit" using electrical tape.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b3dcd7115.jpeg

Originally the switch was press-fit into the retaining bracket by plastic teeth visible in the picture of a new switch below. Most of these teeth have broken off from my switch due to years of heat cycling.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c93657397.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...95b0f7199.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8c113181e.jpeg

Thinking about what I might be able to use, I remembered I had some spare boots from the clutch master cylinder (CMC) rebuild kits. The boot is taller with more bellows and thicker rubber but it looks like they would work with some modifications. The part number on the boot is FTE H1956. I am not sure it is purchasable as a part, but I have a spare used one as would anyone who rebuilt a CMC.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...37dd38bdf.jpeg


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b3b1ec646.jpeg

Test fitting the boot worked out well. The top of the boot securely locks into the groove on the switch. The boot is a little too tall and needs the lower bellows cut off.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...22f849719.jpeg

I cut the bottom like so...
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...2a6d7c7eb.jpeg

I also removed the remaining plastic teeth.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...739075d41.jpeg

For securing the switch into the retainer bracket I am using a panel grommet with the center cutout. This will be a friction fit.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e715b8e81.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8f7292c7f.jpeg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e0b2127a9.jpeg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...db05b3d2f.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...11d1efabc.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...6ca451161.jpeg

And there you have it. As I type this, I realize I did not need to cut the bellows or use a separate grommet. I could have used the bellows as the panel grommet by inserting the part I cut off below the bracket. It would have been more fussy, but it would have worked just as well.

Michael,

Chances are the body of the switch has gone brittle given the yellowing and it will shatter sooner or later as mine did. Roger offers an alternative switch that I intend to purchase a fit in the near future.

In the mean time no harm in running with what you have and personally I like to apply lateral thinking to nuisance items like these things rather than replace at $$$'s .

Does pushing the switch (closing the hood) close a circuit or open it? Mine is gone but I noticed there are two fine wires in there. What does it do?

Dan

Great fix Michael..:thumbup:
Love these small restorations when you can make something work again as intended and also make it look factory. I always restore the parts if I can. Did something similar with my torn boot to the ridicolously expensive long parkingbrake-cable. Works perfectly...

Some background on the switch functionality. The functionality is detailed in the 1987 Service Information Teklink document. “Engine Hood Switch: The alarm switch for the burglar alarm is located on the right side of the engine compartment. This switch is now standard and also used as a safety switch for after-running of the fans. It only has an influence in the ignition "OFF" or with the ignition key removed. If the radiator fans would run on, they would be stopped when raising the engine hood.” In later years, the Engine Hood Switch also controlled the engine compartment light

This switch would be a good candidate for printing new ones?