No Flywheel Lock - Alternative?
 

Hi all,

In the process of changing the WP and realized I don't have a flywheel lock to undo the crankshaft bolt.
My first born suggests putting the car in gear and then trying.
Any reason not to do this?

I also read about feed rope in through a spark plug hole to create a stop.

Any advice?

Finally - in which direction does the bolt loosen when looking at engine from the front of the car.

Thanks,
Wavey

You need to buy the tool. :)

+1. I'm sure there's a hack, but it's easier to just buy the lock. Not to mention, if you do get it off, it will later need to go back on and the torque is ~215 ftlbs.

If you do buy/use a lock, you'll need a little longer bolts to hold the lock in place; i.e., don't use the ones from the cover.

To remove, when facing the engine, counter-clockwise.

In case you didn't see it, Dwayne has an excellent writeup on TB/WP change: https://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/...0Procedure.htm

dont put anything into the cylinder to HOLD the engine from turning.
That said the safest thing is to use the flywheel lock.

If you dont want to do that then you can use an impact gun it will easily remove the crank bolt.
NOTE the radiator must be removed so you have room to fit the gun.
NOTE then tightening the bolt will still require the flywheel lock.

NOTE the bolt turns CCW to loosen it while facing the engine.

Loosen clutch slave and move out of the way.
Insert 4 inch length of 1/2 X 3/4" channel and secure it using lower slave bolt and small C clamp.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...007e82b7ee.png

I have the tool now ordered but it is most like 2 weeks delivery.
I will still try to get the crank bolt removed so that I can keep progressing the WP.
I can get a solid piece of flat fully in between 2 teeth.

With 4' breaker bar the crank bolt is not budging and Im starting to worry that a single flywheel tooth cannot take this force.
Is that a valid concern?

_yes_.

That's why a designed tool exists.

Where are you that this takes 2 weeks?

Maybe 1.5 weeks - Im in Ireland.

Jesus, promise to send it back, I can have you mine in a few days plus customs.

There is no "ground shipping" overseas. :)

Yes.

And those crank bolts get tighter with age. The surface friction of the washer behind it goes up and frequently, the threads were not oiled when assembled.
It's not uncommon for it to take over 500ftlbs to break one loose.
We use 3/4" drive tools (less flex) with a 6' lever and sometimes struggle.

Work on something else, while you wait for the proper tool.
It's almost impossible that this is the only task that your car requires.....

Did you also buy the timing-belt tensioning tool? You will need it too without a doubt.

Ive asked a IE 928 owner if he has this.

I have one based in Slane, Co Meath if that's any good. DM me and we can sort something out if need be.

I have the proper tool, but often use a bit of 1/2" by 1/2" aluminum bar placed between the starter teeth and a mounting bolt.