Tony

87S4
Whats entailed in removing the front cooling flaps. The ones that are electroncially controlled.
I want the whole structure out of there both the horizontal louvers as well as the vertical supports they attatch to. I already have them set to the open position via pulling the fuse.


As usual it looks to be a PITA to get to and the PET program doesn't provide much input as to what components the system is made of.


TIA

Gretch

If you dont mind destroying the components (rather than removing the front cover) then the flaps can be removed quite easily by using a hacksaw on the pivot points of the flaps. The flaps are made of plastic, which saws pretty easily with a hacksaw blade. Use a small handle that is just an extension of the blade. Cut one side of the pivot point on each flap, and they are then easily removed from the frame. my guess, (though I have no eaperience with this) is that the frame is made of the same plastic material and can be removed in this manner also. Don't forget about the motor.

I suppose we are all curious as to why you would remove the flaps.

I removed one flap so that the intercooler radiator hoses could be routed with out interfearing with flap operation.

Intrinsicate

As Gretch says, a hacksaw is the only tool you need, plus brute force. I pulled mine after they stuck in the closed position, one July afternoon last year, when the temperature was 112 degrees. No adverse effects.

Gretch

'Tis a shame you had to pull them......the top of the flap motor has a hand crank that allows you to open them with minimum effort, after you pull the fuse......

I like mine as they make a big difference in letting the car reach operating temps on cold days. I found with them fixed in the open position, it took a considerable time for my engine to get to normal operating temp.

blau928

There are four hex bolts, two next to the tow hook on the pass side, and two on the driver's side. They are a pain to get to, but if you can get to them, and unscrew them, then you won't have to break the shroud. I removed mine a few weeks ago, as I need the space in the nose for the I/C radiator and extra fans etc...

Diconnect the motor thing, and it just drops out after the screws are out.. You will have to wiggle a bit, but it will come out. In addition, mine was much easier to get to as my front spoiler is off the car, and my custom crashbar/skid plate does not extend all the way to the tip of the nose. Therefore, the bottom of the nose from the A/C condenser to the nose is WIIIIDDDDDEEEEE open...

Going to close it up with a custom chin splitter after the rads and fans etc are mounted..

Cheers,

Tony

Well flaps are used for slow speed flight and since I dont plan on much "slow speed flying"...

oops, you mean THOSE flaps. .....same answer

Chris Lockhart

Tony, just wait till you see the "wide open" look of the beast at SITM!!!!! Lots more airflow. Who needs flaps to help the engine warm up when you're in Vegas baby!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tony

A big to Blau!!
You can pull the whole unit out intact quite easily.
Remove the lower airdam and with a bit of manipulation remove....

4 screws..yellow
4 hex bolts...green
Disconnect the wiring red.
Manually close the flaps first, the flaps will drop down much easier.




The hex keys are a bit hidden but get your self a hex set with a ball end.

The screws are hidden behind the wiring harness. One, of course, is hard to get by the Low pressure switch for the AC system and requires a 90' type screw driver.





Down it comes


Lots of room in there now.

UKKid35

Remember that if your flaps start to become troublesome the reason may well be that your spoiler is fouling them. Fix the spoiler properly (which probably means removing and refitting) and the flaps will work perfectly again.

Don't forget that they do offer your condenser some protection some of the time, and they quicken the rate at which the engine reaches operating temperature.

Just because they weren't included in later models doesn't mean they are a waste of time (or weight!).

blau928

Hi Tony,

You're welcome...! Glad I could help

Richard S

Thanks to Tony's excellent pictures, I was able to remove the flaps today. The upper hex bolts are tought to reach, so you better have slim hands if you try this. Also, there was a thin plastic shroud screwed to the top of the flap frame, it angles down and forward from the frame. These screws appear impossible to get to, so I just broke the thin shroud and pulled it out as well (besides, it already had several cracks in it). It looks like this shroud doesn't have any support without the flap frame, so it won't be going back in. I removed the flaps because I would rather have the additional airflow over the radiator during Open Road Racing in the Nevada summer heat.

Thanks again Tony!

Rich

pmotts

That was sooo much easier than the way I did it...

jetrainor

Which fuse do you pull to default to wide open?

Richard S

Per 928 Specialist web site:
87-89 pull fuse #23
90 pull fuse #18

Pull fuse when flaps are open and they will stay open.

Rich

Colin Emerson

I read this thread yesterday, learned a bit. On the way to work this morning....BINGO....Engine temp light comes on, within seconds off the highway, parked, watch all my coolant boil out of the Reservoir tank. Great. Cooling flaps are closed shut, remembered Fuse 23, pulled, did nothing, guess it only stays open if the flaps are open. Anyway, put coolant in, let her get cold which takes forever, drove home and no problems. Got home flaps are still closed, temp is at the 3/4 hot mark, which is where it always is. Should temp be any cooler than that? I think I will be deleting the flaps via hacksaw, can't see where the handcrank for the motor is, anyone know?
Great way to start the weekend, broke down on the highway with a overheating Porsche, I am sure people were laughing at how reliable my Porsche is!!!! Argh the SRT-8(or 6) seems more and more appealing!! Help