Engine cover, functional
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Engine cover, functional
This is an old idea that I'm just now pursuing.
The concept is to use the void in the hood, where the factory hood pad goes, as a large flat air tube, with much more volume than the two factory air tubes, to supply cool air to the open airbox which I made previously.
This prototype is made from pressboard:
Any suggestions on materials, and cutting/forming methods would be helpful.
The concept is to use the void in the hood, where the factory hood pad goes, as a large flat air tube, with much more volume than the two factory air tubes, to supply cool air to the open airbox which I made previously.
This prototype is made from pressboard:
Any suggestions on materials, and cutting/forming methods would be helpful.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Boulder Creek, CA
Ken, just a thought here... Can you mount a thermocouple just above the CIS air sensor plate and get some baselines, then measurements after the mod?
The most interesting info for me (aside from the fabrication work, which is interesting in and of itself
) would be temp under similar conditions with stock plumbing, then with your current basket thingie, then with your Miura intake. 
Here's an idea for an experiment:
Here's what I used to check my cooling system
Sometimes you can find a sweet deal.
The most interesting info for me (aside from the fabrication work, which is interesting in and of itself
) would be temp under similar conditions with stock plumbing, then with your current basket thingie, then with your Miura intake. Here's an idea for an experiment:
- temp measured after running hard enough to heat soak, then 5 minutes at steady 60MPH
- All tests run at more or less same time of day, same stretch of road
- Just before each test, record the ambient temp/humidity/pressure from a local weather station
- All tests run at same ambient temp/humidity so far as possible
Here's what I used to check my cooling system
Sometimes you can find a sweet deal.
928 Collector
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From: Seattle
Ken, a thought would be to fibreglass from the hood downward, with an opening that seals (rubber) over the airbox base. I like the idea. My thinking is to first put some destructible material (maybe one-way foam) under the hood to get the shape, and then put fibreglass around it, thereby getting a pretty good mould of the space between engine and hood. The final product would lift up with the hood. You may want to mod the front part of the hood to let air in there too, or maybe not. I'd say get rid of that glue also Fibreglass has the smoothness advantage.
Another thought is to get very thick grade aluminium foil and contour the top of the engine that way. You also want to ensure that you get adequate engine bay cooling (ambient) from somewhere.
Fibreglass has the smoothness advantage.Another thought is to get very thick grade aluminium foil and contour the top of the engine that way. You also want to ensure that you get adequate engine bay cooling (ambient) from somewhere.
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From: Nashua, NH
Land sakes alive!! I'm shocked (Boge) that you'd let your engine run agound nude like that!!
You obviously haven't got a spark (Bosch) of decency in you!!
Next thing we know you'll be running around with your rear hatch (cover) open!
You obviously haven't got a spark (Bosch) of decency in you!!
Next thing we know you'll be running around with your rear hatch (cover) open!
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From: Boulder Creek, CA
Originally posted by ErnestSw
Land sakes alive!! I'm shocked (Boge) that you'd let your engine run agound nude like that!!
You obviously haven't got a spark (Bosch) of decency in you!!
Next thing we know you'll be running around with your rear hatch (cover) open!
Land sakes alive!! I'm shocked (Boge) that you'd let your engine run agound nude like that!!
You obviously haven't got a spark (Bosch) of decency in you!!
Next thing we know you'll be running around with your rear hatch (cover) open!
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Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,319
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From: Omaha, NE
Originally posted by Rez
I think we give Ken's car a new disignation. That thing is so modded up.
928SS?
I think we give Ken's car a new disignation. That thing is so modded up.
928SS?
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From: Lancaster, pa
Getting more air to the engine does not mean that the engine will use that "extra" air, cooler air however could mean 0.025 more MPH on the salt flats.....?
Sorry to be sarcastic but I just don't understand what you are trying to do?
If you are looking for more power I would look elsewhere.
As Dennis Miller always says.......... "but I could be wrong"
dan z
Sorry to be sarcastic but I just don't understand what you are trying to do?
If you are looking for more power I would look elsewhere.
As Dennis Miller always says.......... "but I could be wrong"
dan z
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Slightly better pics updated above.
In case anyone is wondering, I turned the fender brace upside down to facilitate this.
(Oh yeah, try to imagine the missing engine badge, that's around here somewhere.
)
...
Sharkskin,
I've got a remote temp sensor with multiple transmitters, I'll try setting them up in different spots.
...
ErnestSW,
I have nothing to hide (Connolly).
BTW: I'll get to the hatch, eventually...
...
heinrich,
Very good ideas, I especially like the foam impression idea.
That's an old pic, but I still haven't cleaned off that residue.
...
zmandan,
I'm looking for driveability, and cooler air will keep that morning fresh feeling.
If you read my sig, you'll see that I'm getting to the nth degree area where there is not much left to pursue without major modification$.
Having an airbox open made a (dyno) measureable difference in performance, but that performance suffers in slow moving and hot conditions.
In case anyone is wondering, I turned the fender brace upside down to facilitate this.
(Oh yeah, try to imagine the missing engine badge, that's around here somewhere.
)...
Sharkskin,
I've got a remote temp sensor with multiple transmitters, I'll try setting them up in different spots.
...
ErnestSW,
I have nothing to hide (Connolly).
BTW: I'll get to the hatch, eventually...
...
heinrich,
Very good ideas, I especially like the foam impression idea.
That's an old pic, but I still haven't cleaned off that residue.
...
zmandan,
I'm looking for driveability, and cooler air will keep that morning fresh feeling.
If you read my sig, you'll see that I'm getting to the nth degree area where there is not much left to pursue without major modification$.
Having an airbox open made a (dyno) measureable difference in performance, but that performance suffers in slow moving and hot conditions.
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,283
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From: Australia
Cooler air provides more HP (denser, more mass per unit volume) much better than most easy mods. Eg scoops trying to ram air into the intake - you get SFA psi (< .5) at 150 mph IIRC, and with carbs its enough to upset mixture if float chamber is not pressure balanced. The only value of the scoop is to get cooler air than typical underbonnet/hood air.
jp 83 S
jp 83 S
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Redondo Beach, CA>>>>Atlanta,GA
Porken,
How many contours does it have? Judging by the fact that you have cut holes in the press board my guess that it only contours from front to back. If that is the case it seems that you could go w/ a thin sheet of aluminum such as .0625" or even much thinner 20xx or 50xx series Aluminum. it would follow the contour of the fasteners. As far as getting it cut, well you could use shears.... or laser or water jet. You would have to send them a drawing in DXF format. The metal would be the expensive part but if you can find a recycle facility you can buy it for $2.25 per pound..... much cheaper than by the sheet.
You may consider covering the engine side w/ Quality Heat Shield. It would cost you around $40 including the contact adhesive. It reflects 9X% of radiant heat.
Let's get together and see if we can't get on Monster Garage.
Andy K
How many contours does it have? Judging by the fact that you have cut holes in the press board my guess that it only contours from front to back. If that is the case it seems that you could go w/ a thin sheet of aluminum such as .0625" or even much thinner 20xx or 50xx series Aluminum. it would follow the contour of the fasteners. As far as getting it cut, well you could use shears.... or laser or water jet. You would have to send them a drawing in DXF format. The metal would be the expensive part but if you can find a recycle facility you can buy it for $2.25 per pound..... much cheaper than by the sheet.
You may consider covering the engine side w/ Quality Heat Shield. It would cost you around $40 including the contact adhesive. It reflects 9X% of radiant heat.
Let's get together and see if we can't get on Monster Garage.
Andy K
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So many possibilities...
Naws, TypeR... Or that supercharger I need, much cheaper to print one out...
...
GoRideSno,
Forget 'Monster Garage'. We need a couple more 928'ers and be the 'Wasser Coolers' crew on 'Junkyard Wars'.
Naws, TypeR... Or that supercharger I need, much cheaper to print one out...
...
GoRideSno,
Forget 'Monster Garage'. We need a couple more 928'ers and be the 'Wasser Coolers' crew on 'Junkyard Wars'.