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Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
I'll add $0.02 worth of information, but it's not perfect information. I like Hans and believe he makes beautiful pieces.
I installed one of Hans's baffles from Roger during my rebuilt last year around this time. Because I'm supercharged, I probably have more blowby than a NA motor, but I was getting so much that I had oil droplets coming out my vent hose. Could be from internal engine wear or some other factor, but my compression is above 150 on every cylinder.
Hans' baffle is an exquisite piece of metal work, like his supercharger is as well, but I'm not sure it's as effective as other baffles with the more traditional top plate design. I say may not be as effective because at the same time I switched to the 928MS baffle I also installed a separate dual chamber AOS and now get zero oil emitted from the new AOS breathe/vent hose.
Because I changed both the baffle and added an actual AOS at the same time, I can't speak as to which component resolved my oil venting issue, but combined they did it 100%.
This is the Hans baffle from Roger that I originally installed.
This is a 928MS one I ended up replacing it with when I had to take the waterbridge back off to fix a coolant leak. I think the design iI installed is slightly different now with an angled deflector that protrudes down instead of just the pictured top plate piece.
(photo from 928MS website - https://928motorsports.com/parts/oilcontrolbaffle.php)
And this is the compact, dual chamber AOS I installed. I have both cam towers venting to one of the chambers and the crankcase venting to the other one.
I'll add $0.02 worth of information, but it's not perfect information. I like Hans and believe he makes beautiful pieces.
I installed one of Hans's baffles from Roger during my rebuilt last year around this time. Because I'm supercharged, I probably have more blowby than a NA motor, but I was getting so much that I had oil droplets coming out my vent hose. Could be from internal engine wear or some other factor, but my compression is above 150 on every cylinder.
Hans' baffle is an exquisite piece of metal work, like his supercharger is as well, but I'm not sure it's as effective as other baffles with the more traditional top plate design. I say may not be as effective because at the same time I switched to the 928MS baffle I also installed a separate dual chamber AOS and now get zero oil emitted from the new AOS breathe/vent hose.
Because I changed both the baffle and added an actual AOS at the same time, I can't speak as to which component resolved my oil venting issue, but combined they did it 100%.
This is the Hans baffle from Roger that I originally installed.
This is a 928MS one I ended up replacing it with when I had to take the waterbridge back off to fix a coolant leak. I think the design iI installed is slightly different now with an angled deflector that protrudes down instead of just the pictured top plate piece.
(photo from 928MS website - https://928motorsports.com/parts/oilcontrolbaffle.php)
And this is the compact, dual chamber AOS I installed. I have both cam towers venting to one of the chambers and the crankcase venting to the other one.
In this 10 Billion dollar market (sarcasm) everyone is bound and determined to make their own iteration of what I have developed (which, in this case, was developed with almost continuous dyno testing.....at WOT, at 7,000+ rpms for extended periods of time), to "grab" a portion of the incredibly lucrative 928 market (more sarcasm.)
Until "their iteration" is tested/tortured and works the same or better, as mine, it's just another "guess and by golly" product....no matter how pretty it is.
Show me a video of "theirs" controlling oil in the filler neck area (which is stuffed up into the chimney area of the block), at WOT and 7,000 rpms for 30 seconds and I'll pay attention.
The benefit of buying anything from me (or made by me) is that every product has been developed, tested, modified, re-tested (ad nauseam), until it works for the task it was designed for.
Testing would tell people building "their version" that the oil being tossed up into the chimney area fills that entire area, several inches down into the block. Han's baffle does not protrude down into the block far enough to "block" that oil/air mixture and will literally be "submerged in oil" by 5,000 rpms.
However, it is pretty and it can probably be installed with the filler neck in place.
It's the old "form or function" question.
There's no gamble when you buy my stuff....every single piece works. Everything is guaranteed to work. End of story.
In this 10 Billion dollar market (sarcasm) everyone is bound and determined to make their own iteration of what I have developed (which was developed with almost continuous dyno testing.....at WOT, at 7,000+ rpms for extended periods of time), to "grab" a portion of the incredibly lucrative 928 market (more sarcasm.)
Until "their iteration" is tested/tortured and works the same or better, as mine, it's just another "guess and by golly" product....no matter how pretty it is.
Show me a video of it controlling oil in the filler neck area (which is stuffed up into the chimney area of the block), at WOT and 7,000 rpms for 30 seconds and I'll pay attention.
The benefit of buying anything from me (or made by me) is that every product has been developed, tested, modified, re-tested (ad nauseam), until it works for the task it was designed for.
There's no gamble....my stuff works. End of story.
I completely agree. I have your braided fuel lines and your clutch line. Wish I had your OPG and new clutch but not going to redo those jobs until necessary.
Carl's stuff is tested and works too. Most if not all of it was developed from his racing experience and tested under much more strenuous conditions than most of us ever see. Since he did my original upgrade build for me, I have a lot of his components and am impressed by their design, fit, and functionality. I've improved some of them, like the supercharger intake, but that's because I have the time and can make irreversible modifications to my car that he can't do.
I have 928MS:
Stage 2 supercharger setup
6-speed zo6 transmission
Upper and lower suspension braces
All aluminum radiator and overflow tank
Stainless Y-pipe
High output alternator
and a bunch of other odds and ends, but that's the big stuff
So I need to make a decision today as to which baffle. I do like what Greg writes above and cant deny a proven tested version. However I dont have the top plate and wonder if it detracts from its function and or was equally tested on the dyno without the factory top plate. I know my car stock and not boosted so probably doesn't matter. I did PM Greg but he is no doubt busy. Currently flipping through the threads trying to make a decision.
So I need to make a decision today as to which baffle. I do like what Greg writes above and cant deny a proven tested version. However I dont have the top plate and wonder if it detracts from its function and or was equally tested on the dyno without the factory top plate. I know my car stock and not boosted so probably doesn't matter. I did PM Greg but he is no doubt busy. Currently flipping through the threads trying to make a decision.
Anything pre 85 never had that top plate. I ran his baffle in my 81 with solid results. It uses the same oil separator as your 84.
The 16V cars already have a better designed separator as it is already cyclonic and doesn't fire oil intake the pcv hoses.
Greg's baffle helps with that some more, but the difference wont be as drastic as with a 32V car.
It wont work miracles but it does what it says it will and reduce oil consumption at high rpms.
I've now got thin gaskets (.75mm) versus the stock gaskets (2.0mm), which warped everything they were between. These new gaskets are made from the same super trick gasket material as my oil pan/cam carrier gaskets, which is virtually completely oil proof and crushes just a tiny amount.
You can use one of these between the block and my baffle, use a conservative amount of Drei Bond between my baffle and the stock baffle, and then use another one of my gaskets between the two baffles and the filler neck. You will want to make sure the filler neck is flat.
All of my baffles will now be shipped with these gaskets included.
I just got my Baffle without this. Or bolts or instructions. I thought it would when I saw the picture above and decided against the other option. A little disappointing but still happy with the choice. Its not easy when buying all the way down here in Australia.
I am now completely lost on this, every post I have read up to this point stated no paper gasket and drei bond 1209 between all the layers.
I have Greg's Baffle and was getting ready to install. I know things are continually updated, Greg were you having any issues with drei bond only? Is it still safe to install with only drei bond 1209?
Just not wanting to have to pull this thing back apart anytime soon.
I am now completely lost on this, every post I have read up to this point stated no paper gasket and drei bond 1209 between all the layers.
I have Greg's Baffle and was getting ready to install. I know things are continually updated, Greg were you having any issues with drei bond only? Is it still safe to install with only drei bond 1209?
Just not wanting to have to pull this thing back apart anytime soon.
If you install if with dreibond only you will have a hell of a time removing the housing if you ever have to in the future. Otherwise it will function just fine.
The paper gasket between the housing and the baffle makes removing the housing a breeze, otherwise it's you and a rubber mallet to knock it loose.
I just stuck mine in with drei bond. Not fully tested yet under extreme extended driving conditions however doesnt seem to be leaking. I just used the baffle as I didn't have any other forms of grid inserts etc for my vintage car.
Roger that, no pun intended ; ) As much as I've ordered from Roger for this car lately I feel like we are long lost cousins!
So I can do the drei bond only but do like the option for easy/easier removal later. I have 2 of the thick paper gaskets on hand, any reason not to use one of those since I dont have Greg's latest style gasket?
Waiting for that gasket would be the only thing holding me up from putting this thing together this weekend.
Thanks all sorry to hijack however I felt this new gasket was now another new process for the 18 threads I've looked at on this topic.
I tried to install my Hans baffle with 2 OEM gaskets, not realizing the bottom of his is grooved for an o-ring that's also included in the package. With 2 OEM gaskets, it was too tall. I removed it, put the o-ring on the bottom and 1 OEM gasket between the baffle plate and the oil filler assembly and it fit and didn't leak. I did have quite a bit of blowby with the Hans baffle installed, Unfortunately, I installed the 928MS one and the Verus AOS at the same time so don't know whether the 928MS baffle with it's different and deeper design made the significant difference or if it would have been similar, and the Verus AOS is what made all the oil vapor go away.
I've now started cutting my own gaskets using my wife's Silhouette craft machine. I have sheets of silicone in different thicknesses and it seals very well and is heat resistant. For my water bridge gaskets, I cut 4 of the thinnest material I have that's also adhesive, cut one pair regular and the other inverted, and stuck the 2 adhesive sides together. It's working perfectly. This could be another option to do the reassembly this weekend if your wife is "crafty" and you have 1 new gasket to scan into the computer.
Petza914, that's a really neat use of the cutter! Great idea.
Have you tried running your AOS drain into a catch can to see what you're getting from it? That would give you a good idea as to whether or not the baffle made any difference for you. I'm setting up my new AOS system to not drain into the oil pan initially so that I can inspect what it's capturing. Both for volume, as well as content. I'm concerned about how much water content there will be, especially in the winter. There's really no way to keep the gas temperature above the dew point and we're completely relying on it cooling slowly after it leaves the valve cover(s). Even circulating engine coolant through the AOS won't be hot enough. I'm hoping that by putting the AOS as close as possible to the breather sources (valve cover and oil filler neck) that the water vapor will move to the outlet before it condenses. But that will be a function of velocity, not temperature.
It looks like you have a check valve in one of your inlet lines. Am I seeing that right? Which one did you use? I finally found a source for low cracking pressure valves but I'm open to better options.
04-01-2020, 02:41 PM
