16V engine removal
 

I just read the WSM for removing the engine. Is there a link on RL as well?

Don't know but I used the WSM - piece of cake. If you have the engine hoist alongside the car and maybe a load leveller. Have an engine stand ready and a big cleaning kit!

Difficult bit is mission creep once it's out then convincing yourself it's ready to go back in....

D

+928

I just did this last summer on my 85 Euro (2 cam) and followed the WSM. It was very clear, complete and helpful. Removing the engine was much easier than I expected. Of course, youll need a proper lift (2 ton) and leveler and stand (the HF equipment worked well for me) with the right bolts to attach the motor to the stand (some good postings on RL to help you sort that and do that first). I did pull the wiring loom through the firewall as the WSM says and that requires an extra pair of hands while doing the lift so you dont strain it (go very slow when you hoist). Once the engine is out of the car, its a joy and a breeze to work on. Reseal the entire block while its out, replace all the aging plastic and rubber bits in the engine compartment, and I would highly recommend you place the clutch master cylinder if you have a M/T car. You dont want to do this with the engine in the car (its a total PIA) unless you have a highly skilled 5 year old to help.

Thanks everyone. Any special tools that one might need to make it easier?

Yes sir, this for the bolts on the bellhousing !
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0cb6a1927b.jpg

I SECOND that!!! That Mountain ratchet wrench is the only thing that broke the bellhousing bolts loose on the Red Witch. Worth every penny!

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ce40bf983e.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b93d9c9c93.jpg


Yes those bellhosing bolts where a pain. I didnt have the tool mentioned above so made one up using a breaker bar, a socket and a drain plug key.
you will also need a crank pully lock if you are replacing the cambelt. Its easier if you loosen the pully before removing the engine.

Now, THAT'S clever. I'm going to have to remember that trick.

I just bought the wrench and I have the fly wheel lock
Thanks

You can also lock two wrenches together.

I did this a year ago, i started out as a complete amateur. The tool Daniel mentioned is good advice made one of the more difficult steps easy for me. Other advice:
- Make pictures.
- Be prepared to go over budget a few times(!) and planned time,
- Just before you start, clean the engine in a boot with a high pressure hose. I didn't and spent about 24 hours at least cleaning it while on the engine stand.
- Also do the wyait's: i did not do the brake booster / brake master cilinder and i now have to do it with the engine in (Cursing :), i did do the clutch, motor mounts, painted the engine bay and put a large amount of wax on it.
- Prepare to replace al hoses and electrical wires. They will probably break when you ar removing them.
Cheers,

Arjan

When I pulled the engine out of my 81 all I really needed to get to the bell housing bolts was a socket and a normal ratchet wrench. It wasn't too bad.

I would replace all the wiring while you're in there. It's what I'm doing because of more than a few shorts from a PO's alarm system.

A new harness for the front end was under $400 from Porsche when I bought it a year ago so it isn't too dear if yours is crispy like mine was.

I found that these worked well on the BH bolts. I didn't end up removing it when my short shaft got stuck in the pilot bearing, but was getting ready to.

https://www.mactools.com/en-us/Wrenc...nch-Set-12-PT-

A nifty box ratchet that has the angle of a regular box wrench. Because of that, it's also reversible. So the fear of backing a bolt out and then having to cut it off because you can't get the wrench off is not there.