merchauser

cannot find any threads about how to remove the AC hose from passenger side of drier, that routes along the passenger inner fender, cowl, and then terminates at the expansion valve. greg brown has a repair kit for repair of the hose in situ for cars with brass line. (I have asked in that thread if he has a solution for later cars with aluminum lines). if that solution does not exist, then I would like to know if there is a method to removal.

I have read that it is a real PITA, with engine in place, but there must be a tolerable way to get it out?

FredR

Paul,

The first question one has to ask is "do you need to?. In theory that is the case and why a barrier hose was specified for 134 because of its potential to permeate the hose used for R12. However what the industry seemed to find out was that hoses that have been in R12 service for many years has mineral oil impregnated into the bosy of the hose material and R134 does not permeate through this. So unless there are clear signs of damage leave well alone until there is I suspect is the order of the day or my approach at least.

Once a need to replace arises I have already made contingency plans and could see this approach- to cut out the line at the first accessible point and use something like this to rejoint: once a new section of hose has been crimped:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ags-ACRK-04...IAAOSwHptY-oL2

I have no experience with this specific piece of kit but have used similar fittings on different services.

merchauser

^^^^very nice solution. I agree, I will not be doing anything until it is conclusive to be an issue. toward the front of the hose, near the radiator, I noticed some surface cracks in the rubber which I am sure will not get better, so I am thinking of a plan for the inevitable.

merchauser

fred, with the splice-lok system, I imagine you could cut the line and then take the hose section to a repair shop, replace the hose, and then attach via this method?

FredR

That would be the general idea. The only caveat I can think of would be that success depends to some extent on the external condition of the tubing that has to be clean and even that could be worked on with a sealant were it needed.

Given the number of unions in the system already I find it somewhat dumb that they left the system the way they did.

Another approach would be to braze a fitting given the brazing rods now available for aluminium but the problem then is finding a suitable safe access to work with a MAP torch or whatever. and I am not sure there is such a location. The alternative would be to run a hose to somewhere around the firewall and even then one would have to pull the tubing from the firewall. Just to add insult to injury we also have the problem of the run to the rear ac unit to consider. Like anything else it is "doable" but at quite some effort I suspect.

dr bob

Way back when I did the R134a conversion, I conned the local auto AC shop guy into bringing his crimping tool to the house, on the way back from taking him to lunch. I'd purchased the hose and sleeves from him, had it all set up so he could do a touch-and-go. Worked out perfectly.

Rob E. actually removed the line on his GT after that, and had the hose section replaced. There's a description here somewhere. Getting the AC guy to do a house call took a little fine$$e but turned out to be a bargain after reading about Rob's adventure.

Were I to contemplate removing the line for rework, it would be in concert with cam cover removal and maybe a motor mount replacement. That way at least some of the engine bits would be out of the way, and the engine could be raised/lowered and shifted slightly. A few mm of movement makes all the difference in the world.

For anyone who has their engine out for something/anything, replacing the AC hoses should be very high on your WYAIT list. Maybe right below replacing all the power steering and fuel system hoses. You'll otherwise never have that kind of access for cleaning and maintenance.