Help, Im doing tb/wp on my 88s4 and need to identify a wiring harness
#1
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Help, Im doing tb/wp on my 88s4 and need to identify a wiring harness
Hi guys, I am almost finished with my TB/WP job on my 928. I was plugging the wiring harnesses back in and found one that I cant identify. It is the 3 pin connector that has the belt tensioner connector on the same harness. It crumbled when removing the dist cap from the right side of the engine. I cant find the wires it connects to. It seems it must be down there somewhere behind the AC and air pump but I cant find it. If you can identify this wire, please do so and let me know where to search for the other end of the connector. I am planning a trip for tomorrow and really want to drive this one. Its the gray wire in the picture below.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Thanks in advance for your help.
#4
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Yep its the Hall sensor input, the sensor is used on all S4's and up, located behind the right cam (1-4) T Belt gear housing
Without it your losing HP in the form of reduced spark advance.
Dave K
Without it your losing HP in the form of reduced spark advance.
Dave K
#5
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Thanks guys. So does my connector connect directly to the sensor or is there a wire connector that I might be able to find. There is no room in there at all. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also, can it be driven without it for a short while?
#6
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OP has 86.5 model- does that utilise the Hall trigger concept? I know it does not have knock sensors.
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As above, you've pulled-loose the Hall Sensor connection. You'll find that a good bit of the sender-side connector in there and on the ground.
If you run without it, you'll loose 6-degrees of spark advance. You won't be able to pull away from a weezy Honda running on 1.5 of its three cylinders.
At this point, it's the easiest it will be to get a new Hall Sensor in there unless you're doing a cam cover removal next. You'll need to unstring the timing belt, remove the cam sprocket and the three-legged 'spider' behind it. Then remove the plate behind the sprocket. The Hall Sensor is bolted to the back side of this plate.
If you run without it, you'll loose 6-degrees of spark advance. You won't be able to pull away from a weezy Honda running on 1.5 of its three cylinders.
At this point, it's the easiest it will be to get a new Hall Sensor in there unless you're doing a cam cover removal next. You'll need to unstring the timing belt, remove the cam sprocket and the three-legged 'spider' behind it. Then remove the plate behind the sprocket. The Hall Sensor is bolted to the back side of this plate.
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#9
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Frank,
There is a bracket that the part you are seeing slides into to hold it. The Hall sensor itself has a short pigtail of its own with the male plug on the end.
There is a bracket that the part you are seeing slides into to hold it. The Hall sensor itself has a short pigtail of its own with the male plug on the end.
#10
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Thanks guys. I guess this baby will sit another week or so while I drive the 86.5 to Mississippi. That means new tires for the back and giving her a good checkup.
#11
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Dave,
Title said it was 88S4 but avatar and. the "what I run" bit says he has an 86.5. It sure looks like an S4 to me and I cannot think of any other connector in that neck of the woods but then it looks as though the OP has spliced in a new connector looking at the insulation colour
Title said it was 88S4 but avatar and. the "what I run" bit says he has an 86.5. It sure looks like an S4 to me and I cannot think of any other connector in that neck of the woods but then it looks as though the OP has spliced in a new connector looking at the insulation colour
#12
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I'm sorry guys, I should have said this is my new 88s4. I have lusted after another since my old White one burned 9 years ago. Since I couldn't prove the TB/WP had been done, I felt it imperative to get it done immediately. Good darn thing I did too as the old water pump and seized. I can't believe it didn't make a horrible noise but I heard nothing....So, now I get to do the Hall sensor. I just put this new belt on yesterday, guess its coming back off...
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Belt doesn't have to come totally off. Pull both side covers. Clamp the belt, lightly, to the left-side (port, d-side) sprocket so when it jumps you don't slip teeth. Loosen belt tension then slip the belt off the right sprocket.
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#15
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Interesting- presumably the OP just replaced the connector and nothing else. My connector and the Hall sensor have never left each other in the last 14 years despite a couple of timing belts and a new water pump and not even sure I could see a grey section even if I went looking for it given the way such routes! Will take a look out of interest tomorrow.
If the OP was doing a timing belt job I am left wondering why this connector was disturbed? I never disconnected my Hall sensor when doing my timing belt or when changing out the cam sprockets.
If the OP was doing a timing belt job I am left wondering why this connector was disturbed? I never disconnected my Hall sensor when doing my timing belt or when changing out the cam sprockets.