Nice A-arms
 

I have to give Roger at 928rUs a shameless plug.
Rebuilt A arms in stock, shipped same day, and high quality work.
I don’t know if these are from the same person that does his rack rebuilds, but it certainly looks like the same attention to detail!
Old unit and new rebuilt unit side by side for your pleasure:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...907a148bf.jpeg

Roger has some great sources ;)

How much did they cost?

Omg I’ve got some of those too! For my next project!!! Yeah they’re beautiful. Do you have a thread? I’m not planning to start immediately and would love to follow your progress!
Rick

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8130084f1.jpeg

Goes to show Eastern Europe produces more than just beautiful girls and vodka! :D

Are you replacing them with the engine out? I need to remove the A-arm on one side, but my motor is still in and I can't find the tool to get in there.

The rack I got last week too was of great build quality. Roger, what is the $$ each?

This is all you need to remove the nuts in the engine compartment.

There's less pain if I don't ask right?
That's why I just give Mark and Roger my credit card number. ;)
I think 295 per w/o core charges, don't quote me.

I can post on this thread, these were really just the rabbit hole formation from the front shock replacement.
The upper ball joints on the old arms were as loose as a broken pinky.
Bushings were questionable on the passenger side.

You know, I read those old threads about pulling the engine first.
Like other stuff on these cars, seemingly, it can be done with the engine in -- but just much harder to do.
Then, by the time you are done, you say "God, that would have been easier if the engine was out..."

The passenger side took 5 min., because I have deleted the air pump and a/c.
The drivers' side was sucky. You can get to the 22 mm nuts from the bottom but there is no room to create the big torque you need to
break them loose.
On the S3, I was able to take off the side air box and move the coil out of the way.
The power steering line I had to work around.
I was able to run a breaker bar down and then get things moving.

Taking the radiator out will make it easier if you have to use a breaker bar. Did for me.

Maybe my hands are just small, but I didn't have trouble doing it with the engine very much in. I think it only took me around an hour to do the driver's side.

There is no need to remove the engine to do this job. And believe me, you don't want to do that unnecessarily.

For the driver side I used a 1/2" ratchet with a small diameter pipe for the required leverage.

As always, be patient!

if a 22 mm 1/2 drive socket can't be got in there,... try a 22 mm 3/8 inch drive socket. These are a bit shorter and in case on my S4 worked a treat on 2 of the really tight nuts.
Peter

Stunning suspension jewelry (and great removal tips).

Hey you guys, I was hoping somebody can help me with this:

Trying to torque ball joint on UCA to steering knuckle.
My spec sheet says to go to 48 ft. pounds?

It seems like the ball just moves in the joint after a certain amount of torque, which is not 48 ft pounds.
Normal?
Problem?
I floor jacked the wheel to load suspension but same results.
Thank you ahead of time.
Dave.