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Old 05-10-2019, 03:49 PM
  #16  
Shawn Stanford
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Originally Posted by SeanR
This is all you need to remove the nuts in the engine compartment.
Originally Posted by Crumpler
The passenger side took 5 min., because I have deleted the air pump and a/c. The drivers' side was sucky. You can get to the 22 mm nuts from the bottom but there is no room to create the big torque you need to
break them loose.On the S3, I was able to take off the side air box and move the coil out of the way. The power steering line I had to work around. I was able to run a breaker bar down and then get things moving.
Originally Posted by Bedfordman
if a 22 mm 1/2 drive socket can't be got in there,... try a 22 mm 3/8 inch drive socket. These are a bit shorter and in case on my S4 worked a treat on 2 of the really tight nuts. Peter
I'm on the right side, and I've tried every tool I have to get in there ; it's a MFer. The u-channel that the nuts sit in makes it extremely tough to access them, and the closeness of the motor makes it impossible for me to get a socket on. I'd love to see pics of how you're using the tools you use; maybe I'm just not going at it from the correct angle.
Old 05-10-2019, 04:00 PM
  #17  
Hey_Allen
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Is there a hex inside the end of the ball joint stud?
On my VW (not the 928, as I haven't done it's suspension yet...) there is an inside hex that you can put a wrench into to hold the stud while torquing the nut.
Old 05-10-2019, 04:24 PM
  #18  
GregBBRD
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.....I spent years begging someone to make this wrench.



I was sent this one, as a testing prototype.


It's the "bomb" for upper control arm nuts.
Works really well to loosen those 200nm rear suspension camber eccentrics, too!

Not sure if they are available to the general public, yet, but I've had mine for a couple of years, now.
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Old 05-10-2019, 04:37 PM
  #19  
FredR
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
.....I spent years begging someone to make this wrench.



I was sent this one, as a testing prototype.


It's the "bomb" for upper control arm nuts.
Works really well to loosen those 200nm rear suspension camber eccentrics, too!

Not sure if they are available to the general public, yet, but I've had mine for a couple of years, now.
Folks were telling me how easy it is to get those nuts but I found it was a sod of a job. I managed to get the driver's side rear most nut from the top and for the others I had to move the ac compressor, the alternator and the power steering console out of the way. Not that bad considering I also was doing the PS hoses and the engine harness at the same time.

Does that wrench enable you to get all 4 nuts from the top side?
Old 05-10-2019, 04:41 PM
  #20  
FredR
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Originally Posted by Shawn Stanford
I'm on the right side, and I've tried every tool I have to get in there ; it's a MFer. The u-channel that the nuts sit in makes it extremely tough to access them, and the closeness of the motor makes it impossible for me to get a socket on. I'd love to see pics of how you're using the tools you use; maybe I'm just not going at it from the correct angle.
Are you trying to do this with the ac compressor in situ?
Old 05-10-2019, 05:04 PM
  #21  
captainOCD
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I by no means claim to be an expert here, but maybe this can help someone. I recorded changing the one side on my car. I was able to use a socket on one nut and I believe an open ended wrench on the other. For the balljoint nut I used a breaker bar or a crowbar to put force downward on the a arm to be able to tighten the nut without turning the joint.

Old 05-10-2019, 05:10 PM
  #22  
Mark Anderson
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
.....I spent years begging someone to make this wrench.

It's the "bomb" for upper control arm nuts.
Works really well to loosen those 200nm rear suspension camber eccentrics, too!
.
Also works great on the upper bell housing bolts
Old 05-10-2019, 05:19 PM
  #23  
GregBBRD
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Originally Posted by Mark Anderson
Also works great on the upper bell housing bolts
Those take the 19mm version.
Old 05-10-2019, 05:36 PM
  #24  
ROG100
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Kudos to Mark @ 928Intl who sourced these parts in Europe and supplies me with them. They are better than new.
We also have lower control arms of the same quality. We are all lucky to be part of this great 928 community.
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Old 05-10-2019, 05:39 PM
  #25  
Shawn Stanford
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Originally Posted by FredR
Are you trying to do this with the ac compressor in situ?
Yes, but as it turns out that wasn't a problem, but it was a hint.

I've been trying to go at it from the top. I went at it from the bottom, angling up from near the compressor and I was able to get first the 1/2" 22mm breaker, and then the 3/8" 22mm ratchet on there and they are free. From that angle I'm actually able to get my hands up there, so I can spin the bolts back on when I get the replacement A arm.

Thanks for the pointers, everyone!
Old 05-11-2019, 10:56 AM
  #26  
Crumpler
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Originally Posted by Hey_Allen
Is there a hex inside the end of the ball joint stud?
On my VW (not the 928, as I haven't done it's suspension yet...) there is an inside hex that you can put a wrench into to hold the stud while torquing the nut.
I ran out there yesterday to check, great idea, but no, just a round indentation and nothing to get purchase on.

Originally Posted by captainOCD
I by no means claim to be an expert here, but maybe this can help someone. I recorded changing the one side on my car. I was able to use a socket on one nut and I believe an open ended wrench on the other. For the balljoint nut I used a breaker bar or a crowbar to put force downward on the a arm to be able to tighten the nut without turning the joint.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BY-sNWot-W0
Great video, that will help others down the road. Thanks for posting.
I tried that method and still couldn’t get the final torque to happen so there’s still like a mm of space between the steering knuckle and the nut. It feels good though, I guess I will drive it and check it after to see if it sets more.

Originally Posted by ROG100
Kudos to Mark @ 928Intl who sourced these parts in Europe and supplies me with them. They are better than new.
We also have lower control arms of the same quality. We are all lucky to be part of this great 928 community.
Thanks Mark, I didn’t realize it was the same source. Good stuff.
Old 05-11-2019, 02:54 PM
  #27  
skpyle
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
.....I spent years begging someone to make this wrench.



I was sent this one, as a testing prototype.


It's the "bomb" for upper control arm nuts.
Works really well to loosen those 200nm rear suspension camber eccentrics, too!

Not sure if they are available to the general public, yet, but I've had mine for a couple of years, now.


Hmmmph...no such animal exists on google. At the suggestion of Rennlist 928, I bought the MTNRM6 set of Mountain double box flexible reversible ratchet wrenches a few years ago. Worth every penny. The 17/19 was the only thing that would get good purchase and break the bellhousing bolts loose. I would LOVE the 20/22 wrench!
Old 05-12-2019, 10:06 AM
  #28  
M. Requin
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The wrench in the photo appears to have a Monster logo, and they indeed do make a set of them. Unfortunately their website (monster-tools.com) is next to worthless, and makes me think they are rebranding someone else's production.
Old 05-12-2019, 10:33 AM
  #29  
skpyle
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Martin, I have the MTNRM6 set of metric wrenches, which includes the 8/10, 12/14, 13/15, 16/18, and 17/19 wrenches. I have been unable to find any reference to the 20/22, other than Greg's post.
Old 05-12-2019, 10:50 AM
  #30  
SeanR
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Matco has several different sets but if you just want the 22mm.

https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/p...-BOX-FLEXIBLE/


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