Handling question
#16
Rennlist Member
Thanks all for the latest round of replies.
Here are a couple of answers and thoughts:
1) I know the RR shock is leaking - you all are correct in that all 4 are way past their due date.
2) When I loosened the front control arms to pull the rack and motor mounts, I noticed the front bushings looked surprisingly good to me. No dry rot or anything. I almost did not replace the sway bar bushings, but already had them so did it WIWIT.
3) I have not personally had the rear pins out...I believe the shocks are factory original so I doubt they have ever been removed.
I see what you are saying JP and honestly have no idea if I have something bent or not (nothing to compare it to...it kind of makes sense that the camber adjustment is maxed out and maybe that is because something is bent). Can you send a pic or in the WSM show what I am looking for/at? I have no history on the car so no idea if it has ever been strapped or pulled by the suspension arms.
-scott
Here are a couple of answers and thoughts:
1) I know the RR shock is leaking - you all are correct in that all 4 are way past their due date.
2) When I loosened the front control arms to pull the rack and motor mounts, I noticed the front bushings looked surprisingly good to me. No dry rot or anything. I almost did not replace the sway bar bushings, but already had them so did it WIWIT.
3) I have not personally had the rear pins out...I believe the shocks are factory original so I doubt they have ever been removed.
I see what you are saying JP and honestly have no idea if I have something bent or not (nothing to compare it to...it kind of makes sense that the camber adjustment is maxed out and maybe that is because something is bent). Can you send a pic or in the WSM show what I am looking for/at? I have no history on the car so no idea if it has ever been strapped or pulled by the suspension arms.
-scott
For purposes of further info do you have the alignment sheet? At least with that we can see what it should be as per the report.
#18
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Fred - Will have to get a copy of the alignment sheet. I don't have the completed copy.
Speed - I believe I put 200 miles or so of relatively low speed around town driving on the car between the time I finished the MM job and the alignment. It may have honestly been more than that.
-scott
Speed - I believe I put 200 miles or so of relatively low speed around town driving on the car between the time I finished the MM job and the alignment. It may have honestly been more than that.
-scott
#19
Rennlist Member
Always keep the alignment report in your car files- amazing how often it can be useful to refer back . One also has to keep an eye on alignment shops and it is good practice to build up a good relationship so that you can partake in the process. Leave the shop to their own devices and there is a good change they will get it in the acceptable range but not care a great deal what part of the acceptable range they leave it in. A good shop will ask you exactly where you want it to be and get the side to side numbers well balanced thus the report will tell us something about the shop that did the work for you.
#20
Rennlist Member
Scott, in my case the flat blade of the lower arm was visibly bent in the middle - they should be straight and vertical. Compare the look of everything on one side to the other, looking for differences. I have seen pics of the top arm installed upside down - it should have the curve bowing downwards. Check that the wheelbase is the same both sides. Does the alignment look ok just by eyeballing the wheels down each side from a few yards away? No bent wheels?
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
#21
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Ok so I had time to check one thing when I got home before my daughters softball game...keep in mind I did the MM job about six months ago and just had the tires replaced last week.
So my ride height is down about 3” all around the car. It is consistent, but it is WAY off. So, step one is going to be the shocks all the way around. I am going to try to get up under and look for any bent arms as suggested as well.
thanks all - will report back once we get ride height reset.
-scott
So my ride height is down about 3” all around the car. It is consistent, but it is WAY off. So, step one is going to be the shocks all the way around. I am going to try to get up under and look for any bent arms as suggested as well.
thanks all - will report back once we get ride height reset.
-scott
#22
Rennlist Member
Ok so I had time to check one thing when I got home before my daughters softball game...keep in mind I did the MM job about six months ago and just had the tires replaced last week.
So my ride height is down about 3” all around the car. It is consistent, but it is WAY off. So, step one is going to be the shocks all the way around. I am going to try to get up under and look for any bent arms as suggested as well.
thanks all - will report back once we get ride height reset.
-scott
So my ride height is down about 3” all around the car. It is consistent, but it is WAY off. So, step one is going to be the shocks all the way around. I am going to try to get up under and look for any bent arms as suggested as well.
thanks all - will report back once we get ride height reset.
-scott
#23
Nordschleife Master
Since you said that it felt squirrely in the back, I would suspect the issues are in the back.
But they may not be.
If it was me, I'd do a quick check of the front alignment. While it sounds like you convinced them not to lift it, they may still have.
You can do a 'jack stands & strings' setup to check the front end. If it was aligned after it was lifted up (and not settled), it will be a fair distance off. Jack stands & strings will be more than adequate for that.
It may be something as simple as rear shocks.
I see cars going down the road with bad shocks all the time. The car just bounces up & down continuously.
If a 928 was doing that, the rear toe would be constantly changing. In as it squashed down, out as it rose up.
I would think the feel of the wheels constantly changing toe would be pretty weird.
But they may not be.
If it was me, I'd do a quick check of the front alignment. While it sounds like you convinced them not to lift it, they may still have.
You can do a 'jack stands & strings' setup to check the front end. If it was aligned after it was lifted up (and not settled), it will be a fair distance off. Jack stands & strings will be more than adequate for that.
It may be something as simple as rear shocks.
I see cars going down the road with bad shocks all the time. The car just bounces up & down continuously.
If a 928 was doing that, the rear toe would be constantly changing. In as it squashed down, out as it rose up.
I would think the feel of the wheels constantly changing toe would be pretty weird.
#24
Rennlist Member
You mention in your first post that you have new rear tires due to a blown belt. Just curious, did the poor handling start after the tires were mounted? Maybe something as simple as loose lug nuts or rim not flush with the hub/rotor. I'd probably swap the tires (rear to front) and take it for a spin just to eliminate the tires as a possible culprit. BTW - how is the wear pattern on your tires and are there any indicators of misalignment, front or rear? Just for fun, if you have an IR thermometer compare the rear rim temps to make sure you don't have a dragging brake.