Need Advice, replacing clutch and ran into two issues
 

I'm working on removing my clutch and have run into a couple of unexpected issues.

First, the gaps that the shop manual and guides from Rennlist say should exist for shims to be inserted...do not exist. See the below photo and what's circled in red. Isn't there supposed to be a gap there? What does it mean that there isn't? How do I proceed? I'm tempted to just unbolt the pressure plate and proceed. Is that reasonable?

Second, the shop manual says to push the release arm toward the flywheel to disengage it from the ball. It appears that the plastic sleeve stays on the ball and the release arm pulls partway off of the sleeve. Photos below. It moves pretty freely. Do I need to get it the rest of the way off of the sleeve in order to proceed, or can I just pull it the rest of the way off once the clutch is free? Recommendations on how to move forward?

Thank you in advance for your input.


The missing gap where shims are supposed to go:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7c2715490c.jpg


The brownish part in the red circle is the plastic cup:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...37b793e280.jpg



Another shot of the cup. It was hard to get a decent shot, this is the best that I could do with what I had available:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...beadf7f06b.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c53fbad3b6.jpg
You need to use a pry bar back on the lower end of the release arm between the release arm and the pressure plate to compress it and that produces the gap for the shim under the head of the bolt per the photo above. I used thicker diameter chain link cut in half to give me as much slack as possible once you release the pressure on the release arm. Be careful, takes allot of pressure to move that arm against the pressure plate. Once you have the shims/ links in there will be enough play for the arm to clear the ball and insert. My guess is that insert is hardened and brittle. New ones are white and pliable.

Thanks for that. Why put the shims under the bolt heads instead of the gap per the shop manual? Or does it not matter?

I'm also a little confused by it's statement "The straight pins for the TDC sensor must point downward to permit removal of the complete clutch".

Maybe it will all make sense as I get things apart. I'll give the prying method a shot. Thanks.



This is where the shop manual says to put the shims:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c4d3b2b1ba.jpg

If your PP doesnt look like the picture that J posted then,
On your PP you need to make some L shims .
NOTE the shim will not fit unless your also prying the release arm to the rear of the car,
(this will in effect release the clutch disc to turn) then that gap will open up enough to fit the shim
Rob Edwards has pictures of them,
I like to put weldwood glue the shim then insert it one ata time ,
the glue should hold the shim in place while you insert the next one . 3 total.
Then loosen and remove the PP bolts.
NOTE not fitting the shims can make is impossible to remove the throw out bearing,
and same for fitting the release arm on the new release arm bushing.

Cool, thanks. Prying against the release arm was the step that I was missing. The gap presents itself when I do that. I'm about to cut some shims right now.

That did it. Shims installed, release arm is free, moving on to the next step.

Thanks, guys. Huge help.

Clutch is out. The straight pins referenced by the WSM did become obvious.

Thanks for the quick responses. They were invaluable.

rennlist strikes again!

This is a great picture, for people to reference.

When the gap is completely gone between the actual pressure plate and the pressure plate body (circled in red), the clutch disc is worn as thin as it can get and there is no longer as much pressure exerted on the clutch disc as is possible in a non-worn condition.....the clutch disc needs to be replaced (at a minimum.)

If the OP was to only install a new clutch disc, that gap would be over 1mm.