Rear hatch lock
 

All -

Been researching how to open my hatch (early '83 - no power release). Everything was working fine but now the key will turn about 90 degrees in either direction and hit a stop, but the hatch will not pop open.

I found a post where the key would just turn around and around, but this has a definite stop in either direction that it will not go past. Not sure if it is a tumbler issue, key issue, or what.

Any ideas?

-scott

You can crawl into the back and remove the tool tray, then while laying in the the cargo area with a thin screw driver, you can reach in from the passenger side and depress the catch and open the rear hatch. once open you can remove the upper latch mechanism and disassemble to figure out what you need to fix in it.

Ok I have tried several different thin devices and I am doing something wrong -

anyone have a pic of where the device needs to be inserted and then where to go?

i have poked around all over the front where I think the lt h is located and it does not trip.

tks -

scott

It's a little difficult to get a good pic with my phone since the battery is too low to run the flash at the moment. If you need better pics I can try again tomorrow. The first pic is the screwdriver inserted up from below the latch. The second shows the tip where it would push against the release.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...9285039a2a.jpghttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b0cc2f067e.jpg

Finally got it
 

Thanks '76! I still could not get the screwdriver tip to release the catch but used the drill method and got it open. Here is what I found when I took the assembly apart:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b1ec3300d2.jpg
All the bits and pieces...
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...72139ad82f.jpg
The lock cylinder itself. The piece of the assembly that protrudes from the case and actually triggers the latch appears to have broken off.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...2a956cb75e.jpg
The lower two bits in this photo are the pieces that I believe were broken off and actually should press against the plastic latch when the key is turned.


So now to figure out how to proceed. I thought about taking the lock cylinder to a locksmith and see if the part that broke is potentially something that could be replaced and the old cylinder reinstalled. Also considering a release lever added in the trunk for emergencies and creating a power release mod (there is a method using a VW release motor) and doing away with the lock entirely - and filling the hole with a 3-D printed plastic nub.

Just thinking out loud. It is not visible really in the pics above but the tongue frame has damage as well and is cracked in the usual places. I hate that it is so costly.

Thanks again for the pics - interested to hear other thoughts on my ideas moving forward.

-scott

Roger sells a stainless steel lower part of the lock assembly (the part that typically cracks), so should be much stronger and eliminate the cracking issues of the OEM part. It isn't necessarily inexpensive (also currently on back order as I'm waiting for one myself), but cheaper that an OEM alarm latch. This of course requires you to move all the rest of your parts over to the new body. Let me dig through my parts bin and see what I can find. I think I have a spare cracked alarm hatch lock, and if I do I could send it to you. You could use it in combination with your existing parts and the stainless body from Roger to build a good unit keyed to your existing lock.